Exhaust manifold removal
Discussion
2001 4.5 Chim. Not that that should make much difference. What is the best way to get at and remove the exhaust manifold bolts. I have to take the P/S manifold of as it appears to be leaking where all the pipes join. I have removed the air induction system and the plug leads and can undo the top bolts and the first one at the front end underneath. 14mm or 9/16 spanners. Apart from taking the engine out how the hell do you get to the rest? and advice would be greatly received.
Fun isn't it 
Put a bolt back in the top to hold the weight of the manifold and only remove it when you have to otherwise it's harder to undo the bottom ones. I've use a cut down 14mm spanner for the bottoms and also grind the jaws of the spanner down thinner that way you get more of a turn with it. I can do them all from the top with my fingers through the holes, I find that less annoying than laying under the car and doing it but if it's your first time it's probably easier to do it from underneath.
Put a bolt back in the top to hold the weight of the manifold and only remove it when you have to otherwise it's harder to undo the bottom ones. I've use a cut down 14mm spanner for the bottoms and also grind the jaws of the spanner down thinner that way you get more of a turn with it. I can do them all from the top with my fingers through the holes, I find that less annoying than laying under the car and doing it but if it's your first time it's probably easier to do it from underneath.
Len I did it on Wednesday - I can't see how my sausage fingers could have done it from the top but my car was on stands anyhow so I did it from underneath.
I took the exhaust off and the starter motor off (disconnect battery first). It was then just a case of getting under with a torch and reaching up to get the access to the bolts. Took me a couple of hours with a few tea breaks...
Its actually 9/16 if you have one although a 14 will do it as well. Worth a dose of plus gas before you start although none of my bolts were stuck in. Some people have found a S shaped spanner helps but I got on OK with a standard spanner.
I'm going to slot the bottoms and use studs when it all goes back together.
Bon chance
I took the exhaust off and the starter motor off (disconnect battery first). It was then just a case of getting under with a torch and reaching up to get the access to the bolts. Took me a couple of hours with a few tea breaks...
Its actually 9/16 if you have one although a 14 will do it as well. Worth a dose of plus gas before you start although none of my bolts were stuck in. Some people have found a S shaped spanner helps but I got on OK with a standard spanner.
I'm going to slot the bottoms and use studs when it all goes back together.
Bon chance
Bolts are 9/16ths AF.
Don't use metric, a 14mm is slightly larger and will round them off.
Never done it from the top, looks impossible to me!
Buy a couple of cheap 9/16ths from Ebay and cut them down as necessary.
You can get a 9/16ths ring on some. I find a set of short spanners are invaluable and cheap to buy.
Defo starter out which is 10 mins as Alun says.
Basically a s
t job........
Don't use metric, a 14mm is slightly larger and will round them off.
Never done it from the top, looks impossible to me!
Buy a couple of cheap 9/16ths from Ebay and cut them down as necessary.
You can get a 9/16ths ring on some. I find a set of short spanners are invaluable and cheap to buy.
Defo starter out which is 10 mins as Alun says.
Basically a s
t job........Mine is just a standard straight spanner with the outside of the jaws filed down thinner, it means that it will fit in tighter between the bolt and the manifold so that you get a better angle on it if you get what I mean, the reason your spanner is pointing straight down is because it won't fit on the next bit round on the bolt. I use a cut down spanner for the last bolt by the firewall because I can then get more of a turn in it before hitting fiberglass. Grinding it thinner also helps a bit. They're not in there that tight, once you get a turn on them it's just a case of keeping at it.
Edited by s p a c e m a n on Friday 12th March 18:41
s p a c e m a n said:
Mine is just a standard straight spanner with the outside of the jaws filed down thinner, it means that it will fit in tighter between the bolt and the manifold so that you get a better angle on it if you get what I mean, the reason your spanner is pointing straight down is because it won't fit on the next bit round on the bolt. I use a cut down spanner for the last bolt by the firewall because I can then get more of a turn in it before hitting fiberglass. Grinding it thinner also helps a bit. They're not in there that tight, once you get a turn on them it's just a case of keeping at it.
Great explanation of how to adapt a spanner. You can tell this blokes done this before Edited by s p a c e m a n on Friday 12th March 18:41
I calculated whilst bored out my brains on my back whilst doing this with a standard spanner that it takes 5 mins to do one complete turn including dropping spanner etc etc. Patience is a virtue you really do need and or a few clever spanners makes it much less painfull. phazed said:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CHEAPEST-IN-UK-KING-DIC...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Snap-on-OEX180-9-16-AF-...
I’ve just bought the Snap on spanner.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Snap-on-OEX180-9-16-AF-...
You can never have too many of those babies
Good advice above regarding spanners.
This may be helpful:
http://www.bertram-hill.com/replacing-exhaust-gask...
This may be helpful:
http://www.bertram-hill.com/replacing-exhaust-gask...
I used the following assortment when I did mine
Snap-on flankdrive plus 14mm SOEXM14 combination wrench
Snap-on 4 Way Angle Head VSM5214B - good for the lower front one where an open ended is needed
Facom straight ring spanner 59.14x15 - for the other lower ones particularly the back 2.
Snap-on flankdrive plus 14mm SOEXM14 combination wrench
Snap-on 4 Way Angle Head VSM5214B - good for the lower front one where an open ended is needed
Facom straight ring spanner 59.14x15 - for the other lower ones particularly the back 2.
well not quite 9/16 is 0.3mm larger a similar thing with 1/2 Vs 13mm. 7/16 Vs 11mm. 3/8 Vs 9mm. and so on , they are close but no cigar Forums | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff