Thoughts on this Chimaera
Discussion
https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/10740356
Does anyone here know this car or previously owned it?
What are Kerridges like to deal with?
Thanks in advance.
Does anyone here know this car or previously owned it?
What are Kerridges like to deal with?
Thanks in advance.
I’d say that’s a fairly reasonable price incl warranty from a dealer if your after a garage Queen.
The low mileage being its best selling point and if it turns out to be as nice underneath then where would you buy one this unused for similar money.
All Tvr develop faults IMO so at least start with one that requires less remedial work.
Seats and interior cost a fortune to recover etc so this car could be quite the bargain for someone in all reality. Try taking a tired one and getting it’s base to this standard ( assuming chassis is sound)
It’ll cost a lot more than that is my basic thought.
The low mileage being its best selling point and if it turns out to be as nice underneath then where would you buy one this unused for similar money.
All Tvr develop faults IMO so at least start with one that requires less remedial work.
Seats and interior cost a fortune to recover etc so this car could be quite the bargain for someone in all reality. Try taking a tired one and getting it’s base to this standard ( assuming chassis is sound)
It’ll cost a lot more than that is my basic thought.
It’s all guesswork until you see it in the flesh really.
My friends 450 which was almost exactly the same age as my car to the month had lived a charmed life down south and the chassis including riggers were like new near enough ( it had never seen rain ) A totally summer car only. My car lived in Scotland for 10 years and looked totally different underneath.
Rotten!
My car was owned by a doctor and probably garaged regularly but most likely garaged wet and subject to a colder climate. Huge difference.
So mileage means nothing really. Mine was on 38,000 miles and riggers were already well gone at 10 years old by the looks of mine 10 years later so original cars with good riggers can only mean they have been mollycoddled.
Need pictures as usual but I’d say this car should check out if the chassis is true.
My advice when buying Tvr and the rigger question would be to buy a mini camera and torch before viewing any Tvr and that includes ones sold by dealers. It might just save you buying issues. Start with poking it only 3 inches along the rigger from front corners and do the same with the rears.
Any sign of bubbling or rot will be obvious. You can not see this by eye but a camera will usually fit up between the outrigger tubes and body from below if it’s small enough.
My friends 450 which was almost exactly the same age as my car to the month had lived a charmed life down south and the chassis including riggers were like new near enough ( it had never seen rain ) A totally summer car only. My car lived in Scotland for 10 years and looked totally different underneath.
Rotten!
My car was owned by a doctor and probably garaged regularly but most likely garaged wet and subject to a colder climate. Huge difference.
So mileage means nothing really. Mine was on 38,000 miles and riggers were already well gone at 10 years old by the looks of mine 10 years later so original cars with good riggers can only mean they have been mollycoddled.
Need pictures as usual but I’d say this car should check out if the chassis is true.
My advice when buying Tvr and the rigger question would be to buy a mini camera and torch before viewing any Tvr and that includes ones sold by dealers. It might just save you buying issues. Start with poking it only 3 inches along the rigger from front corners and do the same with the rears.
Any sign of bubbling or rot will be obvious. You can not see this by eye but a camera will usually fit up between the outrigger tubes and body from below if it’s small enough.
Edited by Classic Chim on Sunday 4th April 08:46
TR4man said:
If you want one to tootle to the pub on a Sunday, then it would be ideal. At such a low mileage I’d want to properly check it over especially looking for perished fuel lines.
I must say that their Halcyon Griffith looks rather tasty!
Fuel lines on all cars need to now be inspected every year IMO. I must say that their Halcyon Griffith looks rather tasty!
The Griff yeah man
Thanks everyone.
Not really worried about milage per se, and would happily have one with 100K if the condition was good. I enquired about this because it looked original and is only 30 miles up the road.
I was aware that the riggers require inspection prior to purchase. I assume rotten ones would be apparent to anyone with eyes once the car is up in the air. Is it possible for someone to disguise any such rot with fresh waxoil, seal or paint? I suspect the previous MOT history is a good indicator too.
Other questions:
What are the known most common (and expensive) drive train issues to look out for?
What is the new tyre supply situatin like?
Regarding chassis, how easys are these to set up (geo) and work on (replacing springs, dampers, bushes, etc)?
Dare I ask about thought on this one ... https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/11364940?c...
Not really worried about milage per se, and would happily have one with 100K if the condition was good. I enquired about this because it looked original and is only 30 miles up the road.
I was aware that the riggers require inspection prior to purchase. I assume rotten ones would be apparent to anyone with eyes once the car is up in the air. Is it possible for someone to disguise any such rot with fresh waxoil, seal or paint? I suspect the previous MOT history is a good indicator too.
Other questions:
What are the known most common (and expensive) drive train issues to look out for?
What is the new tyre supply situatin like?
Regarding chassis, how easys are these to set up (geo) and work on (replacing springs, dampers, bushes, etc)?
Dare I ask about thought on this one ... https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/11364940?c...
Have a look a body off resto vids on YouTube for the outriggers thing. Every single one I have seen has rotted on top where the body mount gussets create a flat area for crap to sit and fester next to the tubes. A £15 usb endoscope camera will allow you to see these areas easily enough though.
churchie2856 said:
I was aware that the riggers require inspection prior to purchase. I assume rotten ones would be apparent to anyone with eyes once the car is up in the air. Is it possible for someone to disguise any such rot with fresh waxoil, seal or paint? I suspect the previous MOT history is a good indicator too.
I used to work in the motor trade and when I bought my Chim the dealer put it on a ramp to show me, the outriggers looked fine to me but they weren't and were (thankfully) replaced prior to me taking delivery. As a previous poster said the rot is not easily visible - the camera and torch is a cracking idea
churchie2856 said:
Dare I ask about thought on this one ... https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/11364940?c...
Don't know about the car but that was where I bought mine and they were great to deal with and were pro-active on what work needed doing rather than me asking about it,churchie2856 said:
Thanks everyone.
Not really worried about milage per se, and would happily have one with 100K if the condition was good. I enquired about this because it looked original and is only 30 miles up the road.
I was aware that the riggers require inspection prior to purchase. I assume rotten ones would be apparent to anyone with eyes once the car is up in the air. Is it possible for someone to disguise any such rot with fresh waxoil, seal or paint? I suspect the previous MOT history is a good indicator too.
Other questions:
What are the known most common (and expensive) drive train issues to look out for?
What is the new tyre supply situatin like?
Regarding chassis, how easys are these to set up (geo) and work on (replacing springs, dampers, bushes, etc)?
Dare I ask about thought on this one ... https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/11364940?c...
Hi mate. They all look lovely in photos to me. Not really worried about milage per se, and would happily have one with 100K if the condition was good. I enquired about this because it looked original and is only 30 miles up the road.
I was aware that the riggers require inspection prior to purchase. I assume rotten ones would be apparent to anyone with eyes once the car is up in the air. Is it possible for someone to disguise any such rot with fresh waxoil, seal or paint? I suspect the previous MOT history is a good indicator too.
Other questions:
What are the known most common (and expensive) drive train issues to look out for?
What is the new tyre supply situatin like?
Regarding chassis, how easys are these to set up (geo) and work on (replacing springs, dampers, bushes, etc)?
Dare I ask about thought on this one ... https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/11364940?c...
Nice service history but not a lot to go on from the add.
Roadtrain, sloppy connection between the 3 components of engine / gearbox/ Dif. This is often caused by poor engine management rather than anything else. If the car tends to shunt around low revs and goes unchecked it can lead to these symptoms but actually the road train is robust so other than age related wear they are reliable.
Tyres not sure as I use bigger wheels but you can get them.
Geo, a bit fiddly and old fashioned but no big deal if you know what your doing. Seized up adjusters on the rear toe can be a pain but nothing outrageous.
Very simple cars in truth.
drcarlos said:
Have a look a body off resto vids on YouTube for the outriggers thing. Every single one I have seen has rotted on top where the body mount gussets create a flat area for crap to sit and fester next to the tubes. A £15 usb endoscope camera will allow you to see these areas easily enough though.
I've already got a WiFi endoscope so will take that along to any viewigs - thanks for the suggestion.on first view the car looks really nice and un-molested...but with this price the car should have a spot-on chassis & suspension, clean as on the first day with a spot-on powder coating, esthetically nice and shiny.
also dont forget...its the "volume" Model of TVR with the entry-level of engine: Chimaera 400.
also dont forget...its the "volume" Model of TVR with the entry-level of engine: Chimaera 400.
LLantrisant said:
on first view the car looks really nice and un-molested...but with this price the car should have a spot-on chassis & suspension, clean as on the first day with a spot-on powder coating, esthetically nice and shiny.
also dont forget...its the "volume" Model of TVR with the entry-level of engine: Chimaera 400.
also dont forget...its the "volume" Model of TVR with the entry-level of engine: Chimaera 400.
It would be hard to get a spot on chassis at that age, unless its had a body off job!.
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