Ist engine oil after rebuild??
Discussion
I believe Lucas &Morris oil amongst others do something similar , I used Comp Cams as I had a long list of stuff from Realsteel some years back I actually broke in on 10/30 weight with no oil consumption etc issues as expected caduceus said:
If it's the very first run of the engine and it needs running in, another shout for Comp Cams Break in oil. After that run in period it's a mineral oil...then normal synthetic apparently. I asked V8 developements. Give them a call to be sure.
Sounds good ^ and if you dont nurse the break-in you will end up with a motor that uses little oil , that 1st 50/100 mile window is important dont waste it As long as you don’t use a synthetic oil, it’s not too critical.
The first 100 miles is very important, in fact you can run an engine in completely in that time (unless the freshly rebuilt engine was run in on a dyno).
You can easily run an engine in properly on the road however, and as long as it’s correctly built.
Firstly, once warm, gradually increase rpm to 3k through the gears, but never allowing the engine to labour.
Once you’ve done this over 20-30 miles, you can start to bed the piston rings in.
This is done by accelerating (WOT) from 30mph in 4th, to about 50mph. Then backing off. This forces the rings against the liner walls.
Do this 10 to 15 times, allowing a few minutes between each repetition.
After this, you can then start to gradually increase Max rpm, in increments of say 500rpm.
So you’d go from say 3k to 3.5k, and ultimately up to 6.25k (or wherever your limiter is) but again allow a few miles between each increase.
The engine should be nicely bedded in now, and ready for the synthetic oil (and new filter) of your choice.
The first 100 miles is very important, in fact you can run an engine in completely in that time (unless the freshly rebuilt engine was run in on a dyno).
You can easily run an engine in properly on the road however, and as long as it’s correctly built.
Firstly, once warm, gradually increase rpm to 3k through the gears, but never allowing the engine to labour.
Once you’ve done this over 20-30 miles, you can start to bed the piston rings in.
This is done by accelerating (WOT) from 30mph in 4th, to about 50mph. Then backing off. This forces the rings against the liner walls.
Do this 10 to 15 times, allowing a few minutes between each repetition.
After this, you can then start to gradually increase Max rpm, in increments of say 500rpm.
So you’d go from say 3k to 3.5k, and ultimately up to 6.25k (or wherever your limiter is) but again allow a few miles between each increase.
The engine should be nicely bedded in now, and ready for the synthetic oil (and new filter) of your choice.
20/30 miles is too long in 
you need to scuff the rings in sooner , most builds have already used up some of this useful window breaking in the cam which is why like you mentioned Dyno loading/pulling is better because you can be scuffing in the rings whilst breaking in the cam , if the engine s
ts itself during this period the build was a wker anyway 
inc on the road
you need to scuff the rings in sooner , most builds have already used up some of this useful window breaking in the cam which is why like you mentioned Dyno loading/pulling is better because you can be scuffing in the rings whilst breaking in the cam , if the engine sts itself during this period the build was a wker anyway inc on the road Edited by Zener on Wednesday 5th May 11:06
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