Replacing rubber fuel lines
Discussion
No but you will need to also remove the jubilee clip that holds the swan neck pipe from filler cap to tank and also the sender connection in the r/h side of the tank.
If you are going to remove tank from boot you will need to release the fuel return feed pipe also on the r/h side. You might aswell replace that hose too.
Empty tank before you start.
The two bolts going through the boot floor holding the fuel tank straps in place might sheer off but they are common metric sizes.
If you are going to remove tank from boot you will need to release the fuel return feed pipe also on the r/h side. You might aswell replace that hose too.
Empty tank before you start.
The two bolts going through the boot floor holding the fuel tank straps in place might sheer off but they are common metric sizes.
My tank didn’t need removing for the feed lines, I could access the hose fitting.
12 mm ID from tank to pump and the rest was 8mm ID.
Don’t buy cheap hose from eBay, I used the Ethanol proof stuff from here.
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/rubber-fuel-hose
12 mm ID from tank to pump and the rest was 8mm ID.
Don’t buy cheap hose from eBay, I used the Ethanol proof stuff from here.
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/rubber-fuel-hose
Belle427 said:
My tank didn’t need removing for the feed lines, I could access the hose fitting.
12 mm ID from tank to pump and the rest was 8mm ID.
Don’t buy cheap hose from eBay, I used the Ethanol proof stuff from here.
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/rubber-fuel-hose
How did you access the jubilee clip holding hose to tank at the bottom. 12 mm ID from tank to pump and the rest was 8mm ID.
Don’t buy cheap hose from eBay, I used the Ethanol proof stuff from here.
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/rubber-fuel-hose
My hose there was rock hard original and almost welded / rusted on and took serious work to get it off.
I had the feeling I’d twist the connector pipe clean off the tank with the hose attached so I eventually cut it off.
You can probably access both fuel lines with tank in situ
A lot harder than just undoing it though.
Classic Chim said:
Belle427 said:
My tank didn’t need removing for the feed lines, I could access the hose fitting.
12 mm ID from tank to pump and the rest was 8mm ID.
Don’t buy cheap hose from eBay, I used the Ethanol proof stuff from here.
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/rubber-fuel-hose
How did you access the jubilee clip holding hose to tank at the bottom. 12 mm ID from tank to pump and the rest was 8mm ID.
Don’t buy cheap hose from eBay, I used the Ethanol proof stuff from here.
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/rubber-fuel-hose
My hose there was rock hard original and almost welded / rusted on and took serious work to get it off.
I had the feeling I’d twist the connector pipe clean off the tank with the hose attached so I eventually cut it off.
You can probably access both fuel lines with tank in situ
A lot harder than just undoing it though.
MikeE said:
I need to replace the 12mm tank to pump feed too but don’t have an access hole in my boot (January 1992 build) so will need to take the tank out.
In the car builder link which 12mm do I need, the ethanol ready or Gates?
I used the Ethanol proof stuff, think from memory it was branded cohline.In the car builder link which 12mm do I need, the ethanol ready or Gates?
This is the hose I used. I got it from ‘Fuel Pumps Online’ but must be connected to Carbuilder as I got a brochure shortly after. https://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/cohline-2240-r9-...
It was easy to remove the hose once the tank was empty. I cut the corner off the access hole to get to the nut on the jubilee.
Don’t forget the return hose. Mine was original and went last year just after I bought the car.
It was easy to remove the hose once the tank was empty. I cut the corner off the access hole to get to the nut on the jubilee.
Don’t forget the return hose. Mine was original and went last year just after I bought the car.
No need to remove the tank.
Remove the pump and the 'hump back' pipe. This leaves the pipe running throuigh the bulkhead.
The hole this goes through is quite large. TVR filled this hole with about half a tube of sealant. Once removed the hose clamp is easy enough to get at but you may need to use a spanner (7mm) to release it rather than a socket or screw driver.
Once replaced I normally cut a piece of rubber sheet to go over the pipe and bond it to the bulkhead covering the hole.
We use Gates hose having had issues with other fuel hose even though it was correctly marked. There are other makes that are OK so these days I suggest using hose that is branded and has the makers name on it.
Steve
ETA If the rest of your fuel hoses are suspect or have just the SAE marking in bold white print then bin them. We had to do a recall of hose we fitted to customers cars having found that the hose was perishing within 9 months.
Buy the expensive hose as your car and perhaps your life depends on it.
Remove the pump and the 'hump back' pipe. This leaves the pipe running throuigh the bulkhead.
The hole this goes through is quite large. TVR filled this hole with about half a tube of sealant. Once removed the hose clamp is easy enough to get at but you may need to use a spanner (7mm) to release it rather than a socket or screw driver.
Once replaced I normally cut a piece of rubber sheet to go over the pipe and bond it to the bulkhead covering the hole.
We use Gates hose having had issues with other fuel hose even though it was correctly marked. There are other makes that are OK so these days I suggest using hose that is branded and has the makers name on it.
Steve
ETA If the rest of your fuel hoses are suspect or have just the SAE marking in bold white print then bin them. We had to do a recall of hose we fitted to customers cars having found that the hose was perishing within 9 months.
Buy the expensive hose as your car and perhaps your life depends on it.
Edited by Steve_D on Thursday 3rd June 08:17
On mine some clever kid at TVR saved on the cost of all that mastic by fastening a bIg fat grommet out of masking tape to take up the void space then a thin smear of mastic to cover it up. It leaked.
I used rubber but as I removed tank decided to stick it on the inside of the car so I had a solid surface to mastic to from outside the car. It ain’t gonna leak. That’s probably faster than making one from tape!
Unreal?
This is in the year 2000 8 years after the start of production!
Utterly diabolical.
I used rubber but as I removed tank decided to stick it on the inside of the car so I had a solid surface to mastic to from outside the car. It ain’t gonna leak. That’s probably faster than making one from tape!
Unreal?
This is in the year 2000 8 years after the start of production!
Utterly diabolical.
Edited by Classic Chim on Thursday 3rd June 08:28
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