Otter switch

[Tony91]

Anyone know what it is or where I can get a replacement for this otter switch.
I know Racing green do a brass bodied one but this one is in an Alloy Rad.

[David Beer]

Tony91 said:

Anyone know what it is or where I can get a replacement for this otter switch.
I know Racing green do a brass bodied one but this one is in an Alloy Rad.

I would go adjustable, strap it to the outlet hose, kenlow.

[Penelope Stopit]

It looks like a Thermo Time Switch

[Aussie John]

I bought 7 otter switches from different suppliers and none work at the specified temps. The German one [
[ Beru ] was the closest and I installed it today, it was marked 92/87 but was 91/89, working OK but I have ordered an adjustable capillary type just in case, good luck, John.

[phillpot]

Aussie John said:

it was marked 92/87 but was 91/89

Who do you use to test/calibrate your thermometer?

[rigga]

Went through several otter switches over a few years, either failed open or closed, luckily when open i had the fan overide switch (dash light switch converted)
Fitted an adjustable fan controller, with the temperature sensor strapped to the Rad hose, adjusted till I got the desired operating range, and its been trouble free for many many years ..... go adjustable, like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272076559737?hash=item3...

[Aussie John]

Hi Mike, I have not had any of my thermometers calibrated but having 3 registering the same makes me think they are ok, the 4th one is maybe 3'c out. Boiling water should be 100c and thats what my 3 good ones measure, cheers, John

[Tony91]

rigga said:

Went through several otter switches over a few years, either failed open or closed, luckily when open i had the fan overide switch (dash light switch converted)
Fitted an adjustable fan controller, with the temperature sensor strapped to the Rad hose, adjusted till I got the desired operating range, and its been trouble free for many many years ..... go adjustable, like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272076559737?hash=item3...

Did you just strap the probe on the outside of the pipe or put the probe in the water flow.
Did you put it on the return side or feed side?

[Penelope Stopit]

Tony91 said:

rigga said:

Went through several otter switches over a few years, either failed open or closed, luckily when open i had the fan overide switch (dash light switch converted)
Fitted an adjustable fan controller, with the temperature sensor strapped to the Rad hose, adjusted till I got the desired operating range, and its been trouble free for many many years ..... go adjustable, like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272076559737?hash=item3...

Did you just strap the probe on the outside of the pipe or put the probe in the water flow.
Did you put it on the return side or feed side?

Post mentions strapped to the radiator hose

What hasn't been taken into consideration is the air temperature that's blowing over the sensor

There will be a big difference in sensor temperature from summer to winter

Sensor strapped to radiator hose is not the best way by any means

The advert shows



PTFE isn't much use

The kit isn't up to the job, there should be a tapered rubber strip that fits inside the hose and the sensor capillary run between it and the hose

Edited by Penelope Stopit on Monday 7th June 22:57

[Classic Chim]

But Rigga pointed out its worked for many years!
Does that mean nothing?

Another post completely ignoring what a long time TVR owner has resolved and just a chance to slag off a product and effectively Rigga’s words on the subject.
It’s no wonder most of us don’t come here anymore when we have to put up with this.

I could point out the bleeding obvious and recommend a modern ecu that takes its readings from the ecu temp gauge so making the switch redundant but that’s not going to help the o/p.
I’ve had a brass Otto switch in my alloy rad for a decade.
I assumed it would have corroded and made it hard to undo but no when I had my rad out the car I loosened it without issues at all.

Edited by Classic Chim on Tuesday 8th June 07:52

[Belle427]

Maybe some ptfe tape or a specific thread sealant is your friend here.
Ok you will still get some metal to metal but I’d tend to agree with the above.

[Penelope Stopit]

Classic Chim said:

It’s no wonder most of us don’t come here anymore when we have to put up with this.

Kids post this sort of stuff, you're obviously attempting to influence others attitude or heat things up a little (excuse the pun)

Public forums are open to all and sundry

Nobody is forced to read anything

[Penelope Stopit]

Classic Chim said:

But Rigga pointed out its worked for many years!
Does that mean nothing?

Where did I post it doesn't work?

Classic Chim said:

Another post completely ignoring what a long time TVR owner has resolved and just a chance to slag off a product and effectively Rigga’s words on the subject.

Nothing of the sort

Have noticed that external temperatures haven't been taken into consideration

This is why water temperature sensors should be immersed in water

If you don't like me pointing out the obvious............Tough

Classic Chim said:

I could point out the bleeding obvious and recommend a modern ecu that takes its readings from the ecu temp gauge so making the switch redundant

Modern ECU's don't rely on inputs from temp gauges, they measure the resistances of temperature sensors

If you think the kit is up to its job, you need to think again

PTFE around a pipe for sealing a sensor capillary is a bodge

As mentioned above, it's tough on you if me posting the facts bothers you in any way

Found image of a proper seal, touch better than PTFE..................

Shame about the connectors

Edited by Penelope Stopit on Tuesday 8th June 10:36

[Loubaruch]

Penelope Stopit said:

Kids post this sort of stuff, you're obviously attempting to influence others attitude or heat things up a little (excuse the pun)

Public forums are open to all and sundry

Nobody is forced to read anything

Alun is a well respected contributor who through his posts has helped many TVR owners whereas you do not own a TVR but lurk on here trying to impress others with your cut and pastes and completely useless circuits that generally include relays. I suggest you join the "Obsolete Telephone Forum" they may appreciate your posts!

[Penelope Stopit]

Loubaruch said:

Penelope Stopit said:

Kids post this sort of stuff, you're obviously attempting to influence others attitude or heat things up a little (excuse the pun)

Public forums are open to all and sundry

Nobody is forced to read anything

Alun is a well respected contributor who through his posts has helped many TVR owners whereas you do not own a TVR but lurk on here trying to impress others with your cut and pastes and completely useless circuits that generally include relays. I suggest you join the "Obsolete Telephone Forum" they may appreciate your posts!

It's time you stopped posting your vitriol in my direction

You behave like a child

Have posted all the facts above which are of common knowledge

It's tough if you don't like the facts

Every post that you make to any topics I post to contain much vitriol

Why do you constantly post your vitriol in my direction?

You wouldn't come out with so much hatred if face to face with me

Take your hatred elsewhere

People like you destroy internet forums

In other words....................Grow up

[rigga]

Sensor it affixed to the outer hose, and then covered, so not affected by outside air temp.


Dial on the switch is adjusted until fans operate on and off at the desired temperature I wanted them to, system works reliably.

Been fitted since July 14, I'm sure there are other ways of controlling the fans that meet approval from certain posters, but frankly couldn't care less.

[David Beer]

rigga said:

Sensor it affixed to the outer hose, and then covered, so not affected by outside air temp.


Dial on the switch is adjusted until fans operate on and off at the desired temperature I wanted them to, system works reliably.

Been fitted since July 14, I'm sure there are other ways of controlling the fans that meet approval from certain posters, but frankly couldn't care less.

Strapped to the outside of the outlet of the rad, doesn’t mater what air temps as you are measuring the fact there is a rise in temp, so get the fans on . Being adjustable, adjust it !

[Tony91]

Thanks for the replies and advice.
Who would think a simple Otter switch would cause such a thing.
Going for a brass 87=82 lower value just to put the cat amongst the pigeon's.
Put on a bypass switch to check the fans as I thought one was blowing and one was sucking it proved to be one not working at all bad connection in the trough plugs. I will see how it goes and maybe put a variable on the output side as this will give a truer value as to temperature going into the engine not going into the rad.

[David Beer]

Tony91 said:

Thanks for the replies and advice.
Who would think a simple Otter switch would cause such a thing.
Going for a brass 87=82 lower value just to put the cat amongst the pigeon's.
Put on a bypass switch to check the fans as I thought one was blowing and one was sucking it proved to be one not working at all bad connection in the trough plugs. I will see how it goes and maybe put a variable on the output side as this will give a truer value as to temperature going into the engine not going into the rad.

I have one you can try, just postage.

Edited by David Beer on Wednesday 9th June 08:21

[Aussie John]

Would the 87/82 be ok? my car runs most of the time above 82' so on mine the fans would never switch off.