Body off restoration - Outriggers swap or repair

[leerandle]

I have finally managed to get the body off my Chimaera this weekend so that I can fix all the known problems (Big list from Dom at PowersPerformance).

Overall the outriggers are in good solid condition (Big screwdriver prodding), except x2 places at the rear outer corners (see photos).

On the basis all the other parts of the outriggers are fine (previous owner used some kind of waxoyl), do I just do a 'local repair' or just bite the bullet and buy new outriggers and get them welded ? I'll strip all the existing paint/waxoyl off this week and determine if it is only local.

On the local repair, I am sure I could source some similar tube and plate and cut out, clean up and weld (I cant weld though, so get someone in to do).

I'm probably going to strip to bare chassis anyway as the diff/drive shafts, engine, PAS all need leaks fixing (assuming most of these are just gaskets/seals that have gone), plus all suspension bushes, coilovers need replacing.

I don't just want to throw money at everything as it wont be worth it long term, but obviously want it to be safe and I don't want to be taking the body off again.....

Any advice appreciated, and recommendations for welding services around the midlands area.

[sixor8]

For the sake of future value (we often say we'll never sell....), complete outrigger replacement would be best.

It can be done body on for c. £2k, so if you buy an outrigger kit and get a competent welder in now that you have the body off, it'll probably be a bit less.

[Chim72]

Whereabouts in the Midlands are you?

I had mine shotblasted at MAP in Coleshill, very reasonable too. It will uncover any other issues.

I bought the outrigger kit from Central and my mate fitted it. We followed the template method they used on Tools n' Track.

[leerandle]

I'm based in Nuneaton, warwickshire.

My thoughts so far to do the job properly is that I need to strip the rest of the chassis (engine, hoses, brake lines, prop, diff rear suspension) locally clean up and weld on new outriggers, then get it shot blasted, zinc primer and powder coated.

However, I'm still thinking that it could be possible to locally clean up at the weld area and weld in new outriggers and just use some primer/paint system on these only (Seen lots of information on powder coating versus POR15, marine paint etc). From what I can understand, its all about the prep to ensure that paint sticks. The main centre section looks in really good condition.

[Loubaruch]

That corrosion looks very advanced to me for comparison mine were far better but still needed metal cutting out.

See: https://www.bertram-hill.com/body-lift-single-hand...

If the car was mine I would definitely have new outriggers fitted.

[Chim72]

Having been through this, I'd definitely recommend stripping it completely and fitting new outriggers.

One of the issues I found when I cut my outriggers off was that the rust had extended from the hole along the inside of the tubes although it hadn't eaten through.

[Zeb74]

You have already done a lot of work to separate the body and the chassis, it would be a waste not to change the outriggers at this point.
Moreover, even if they don't look too bad, I would bet that if you sand blast them, you will see a lot of holes appearing.
If you plan to keep the car, you will probably not have to do it again in its life so it's a good investment.
If you are going to sell the car in the future, you will sell it not necessarily for much more, but more quickly.

[macdeb]

leerandle said:

I'm based in Nuneaton, warwickshire.

My thoughts so far to do the job properly is that I need to strip the rest of the chassis (engine, hoses, brake lines, prop, diff rear suspension) locally clean up and weld on new outriggers, then get it shot blasted, zinc primer and powder coated.

However, I'm still thinking that it could be possible to locally clean up at the weld area and weld in new outriggers and just use some primer/paint system on these only (Seen lots of information on powder coating versus POR15, marine paint etc). From what I can understand, its all about the prep to ensure that paint sticks. The main centre section looks in really good condition.

I cannot see how those could be repaired if I'm honest, and it's asking for future trouble. As you have access get them replaced, properly.

[leerandle]

I think that's the way I am going......just replace them and be done with it.

At least on future sale, you can confirm outriggers done :-)

Not sure I want to be popping the body off again (Even though people say it can be done) you probably dont get as good access for surface protection.

[Stick Legs]

If you have the body off already just bite the bullet & do it properly.

Take lots of pictures.

TVR's aren't worth a lot now, and may never be, but on the off chance they do become the next big thing I would recommend doing it properly.

My own Griffith is on it's original chassis and it's in good condition, but when the time inevitably comes, it will be full body off. If only for my own piece of mind.

Oh! Do the fuel pipes while you are under there.

[leerandle]

I'd planned on doing all the fuel pipes, engine bay pipes, brake hoses etc anyway.

I thought TVR might be a cheapish project, but feeling that TVR tax is applied for most parts !!

[Chim72]

I guess it depends on your definition of cheap.

Fuel and brake lines aren’t particularly expensive and easy to replace with the body off.

Happy to lend a hand if you need it, I’m over in Solihull.

[Stick Legs]

Chim72 said:

I guess it depends on your definition of cheap.

I did all of my brakes and some over-winter-while-it's-up-in-the-air bits on my Griffith last month. £600.

They are incredibly cheap for the performance and pleasure on offer. I also own a Range Rover to compare notes with!!!

[Adrian@]

Post the year and details of the car ...as the Mk1 with two piece top front wishbones and then MK1 rear lowers ARB mounts along with fuel pipe versions, then thrust washer versions of bushes (should have been retro fitted at service points) can be addressed/might need to be addressed. A@

[leerandle]

Chim72 said:

I guess it depends on your definition of cheap.

Fuel and brake lines aren t particularly expensive and easy to replace with the body off.

Happy to lend a hand if you need it, I m over in Solihull.

Might take you up on that, love solihull. Could pop over some time to say hello or you come over and look at the state of my strip down.

[leerandle]

Adrian@ said:

Post the year and details of the car ...as the Mk1 with two piece top front wishbones and then MK1 rear lowers ARB mounts along with fuel pipe versions, then thrust washer versions of bushes (should have been retro fitted at service points) can be addressed/might need to be addressed. A@

Car is 1996 Chimaera 400 (N853GLL) not sure if you need anything else ? I'll be trying to get the coilovers off this week, terrible design for tool access. Im replacing bolts, nuts anyway, so might just cut off. But I'll need some spanners for putting it all back anyway.

[Loubaruch]

If not planned replace the heat insulation on the inner wings etc. as its a PITA with the body on and not expensive.

[Adrian@]

Look up the ARB bracket D0100 (it is classed as a repair bracket, but it is the MK2 version, note that it is double height along each side) for the rear ..here is a link to fuel line stuff https://www.bertram-hill.com/replacing-the-fuel-li... to the rear wishbone jump pipe (96 cars should have one but ...) C0192 are the thrust washers (pay attention to how the rear upper camber adjuster bends and it STILL jumps the small washer (I've make specials for all my cars as it is the same 1991 through to 2006). 96 should be two piece top front wishbone anyway. A@

[sixor8]

Stick Legs said:

If you have the body off already just bite the bullet & do it properly.

Take lots of pictures.

TVR's aren't worth a lot now, and may never be, but on the off chance they do become the next big thing I would recommend doing it properly.

My own Griffith is on it's original chassis and it's in good condition, but when the time inevitably comes, it will be full body off. If only for my own piece of mind.

Oh! Do the fuel pipes while you are under there.

They're worth much more than they were at the bottom in, I reckon, about 2010 - 2012. Griffs were never that cheap but a running, half decent Chimaera was about £6k then, I know, I was looking.

I bought a W reg 400 with power steering and 79k on the clock for under £7k in 2013. They weren't worth restoring, which is why so many became every poor. But they are now, and have been for about the last 8 years. Sold it in 2017 for £11k. Extremely rare for me to make a good buying decision. The Cerbera after it was a money pit.

My Griff is on it's original chassis (44k miles).

[leerandle]

I bought mine knowing it was a project car, so most jobs expected. Definitely going to redo all fuel lines, brake llines etc. Do a few recommended upgrades whilst body off.