Discussion
Looking for a bit of advice.
I moved my Chimaera - doing the driveway shuffle - then put it in the garage - now the stuborn bu**er won't start. Pretty sure it's flooded
I checked for fuel leaks, due to strong fuel smell, before I turned it over.
Then tried cranking it a bit - turns over fine bit it doesn't start just coughs.
Double checked I hadn't run out of fuel with out realising
Checked that I'm getting a spark - checked at each HT lead using a spare plug
Checked the plugs - they're soaking with fuel (was planning to replace them in the next few days anyway - so gapped up some new ones ready)
Checked water level fearing the worst (no drop)
I can hear the fuel pump priming
Pretty sure the battery is ok - it's been replaced about 2 months ago and it's a daily drive that's never had starting probs before.
I've checked all the passenger footwell fuses and 100A fuse and finally checked HT Leads/coil leads and spade connectors for fit
I imagine I've just got to pop the plugs out and wait for the excess fuel to evaporate? Then give it another go?
I moved my Chimaera - doing the driveway shuffle - then put it in the garage - now the stuborn bu**er won't start. Pretty sure it's flooded
I checked for fuel leaks, due to strong fuel smell, before I turned it over.
Then tried cranking it a bit - turns over fine bit it doesn't start just coughs.
Double checked I hadn't run out of fuel with out realising
Checked that I'm getting a spark - checked at each HT lead using a spare plug
Checked the plugs - they're soaking with fuel (was planning to replace them in the next few days anyway - so gapped up some new ones ready)
Checked water level fearing the worst (no drop)
I can hear the fuel pump priming
Pretty sure the battery is ok - it's been replaced about 2 months ago and it's a daily drive that's never had starting probs before.
I've checked all the passenger footwell fuses and 100A fuse and finally checked HT Leads/coil leads and spade connectors for fit
I imagine I've just got to pop the plugs out and wait for the excess fuel to evaporate? Then give it another go?
I had a similar problem lately, I had wet plugs (flooded) everything sounded perfect but just wouldn't fire.
I changed plugs & leads and rotor arm and no joy. I had a spark so really frustrated and stared checking fuel system.
Then somebody asked me if I had a spark or a big spark at the plugs. Being a novice I thought a spark is a spark, but thinking back it was not big.
He said it's the ignition coil, sparking but not enough.
I bought a cheap one as I don't have anyone local to swop parts with (£24), fitted it and wahoo started first time.
Now got a bosch unit and fitted that.
Apparently they go through coils if they are the cheap after market parts type
Hope it works for you...it took me two weeks of threads to fix it for me.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
I changed plugs & leads and rotor arm and no joy. I had a spark so really frustrated and stared checking fuel system.
Then somebody asked me if I had a spark or a big spark at the plugs. Being a novice I thought a spark is a spark, but thinking back it was not big.
He said it's the ignition coil, sparking but not enough.
I bought a cheap one as I don't have anyone local to swop parts with (£24), fitted it and wahoo started first time.
Now got a bosch unit and fitted that.
Apparently they go through coils if they are the cheap after market parts type
Hope it works for you...it took me two weeks of threads to fix it for me.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
i had the same problem when i first bought my chim and it was this very problem that caused me to join pistonheads!!!
Take plugs out and leave for a while (help the petrol evaporate)
New plugs and you should be fine, unless it is your ignition amp...( i also tried the 'put the plugs in the oven for a while' trick to warm them up....
Take plugs out and leave for a while (help the petrol evaporate)
New plugs and you should be fine, unless it is your ignition amp...( i also tried the 'put the plugs in the oven for a while' trick to warm them up....
I also had the same problem a while ago, a recent engine rebuild leaving it a little tight had exascerbated the problem.
Just cleaning the plugs off I found didn't work, I had to clean the plugs and leave them out for 48 hours. This seemed to help dry the bores, started first time after that. No need to get new plugs though.
I've found that my car runs way too rich for the first 30 secs so any throttle actually causes the revs to dip. I now leave the car idling for a bit, revs start at 1000rpm then slowly climb to 1250 before dropping back to 800 ish. If I try to drive before 800 revs then I stall and flood.
Just cleaning the plugs off I found didn't work, I had to clean the plugs and leave them out for 48 hours. This seemed to help dry the bores, started first time after that. No need to get new plugs though.
I've found that my car runs way too rich for the first 30 secs so any throttle actually causes the revs to dip. I now leave the car idling for a bit, revs start at 1000rpm then slowly climb to 1250 before dropping back to 800 ish. If I try to drive before 800 revs then I stall and flood.
No luck - replaced coil - gave it a quick turn over without the fuel pump relay in or the plugs in.
Put in plugs - gave another quick turn over without the fuel pump relay just
Popped out a plug to check it was dry (dry as a bone), put plug back in
Put fuel replay in but it just turned over and over and over.
The new coil produced a MUCH brighter and stronger spark (think the old coil was on it's way out)
Problem is it's just the same cranks no problem - coughs like it's going to start - but then just doesn't catch.
Removed plugs again allow it to evap again :-(
Checked distributor cap and ht leads and I just can't find anything wrong
Put in plugs - gave another quick turn over without the fuel pump relay just
Popped out a plug to check it was dry (dry as a bone), put plug back in
Put fuel replay in but it just turned over and over and over.
The new coil produced a MUCH brighter and stronger spark (think the old coil was on it's way out)
Problem is it's just the same cranks no problem - coughs like it's going to start - but then just doesn't catch.
Removed plugs again allow it to evap again :-(
Checked distributor cap and ht leads and I just can't find anything wrong
mb450 said:
All they had at the local motor factor was DLB198 (coil) which apparently is the same as the bosch part - I remain unconvinced - anyone know if they're talking rubbish?
The standard parts are PRC6574 or Lucas DLB198.Have you fitted new plugs? For extra brownie points get them warm first. And make sure the battery is charged right up. If it's fading, the engine might still crank over but it will get a lot harder to start.
I assume the plugs are wet again when you take them out. Are you testing the spark at the plug i.e. including the plug leads, extenders etc?
Edited by GreenV8S on Friday 7th December 22:22
GreenV8S said:
Have you fitted new plugs? For extra brownie points get them warm first. And make sure the battery is charged right up. If it's fading, the engine might still crank over but it will get a lot harder to start.
I assume the plugs are wet again when you take them out. Are you testing the spark at the plug i.e. including the plug leads, extenders etc?
Yeah put the new plugs in - didn't try warming them.I assume the plugs are wet again when you take them out. Are you testing the spark at the plug i.e. including the plug leads, extenders etc?
Did jump TVR from Rangerover (and keeping battery topped up with trickle charger)
The plugs are wet again when I took them out.
I've checked for a spark at the end of each HT lead and then with each extender and then with each plug in the extender.
Wondering if it could be the temp sensor - does that affect the fueling ie: if it's telling the ecu it's arctic could it be dumping in way to much fuel?
It could be lots of things but I am with GreenV8S.
Just dry the plugs, dry the bores, charge the battery, check the dizzy and lead order, put it all back and start it.
(You may be back to where you were when you were moving it originally)
Whilst drying things out run a test on the leads and ask yourself how old they are.
I am not keen on the idea of all the fitting and refitting of the shields etc.
Good luck
Dave
Just dry the plugs, dry the bores, charge the battery, check the dizzy and lead order, put it all back and start it.
(You may be back to where you were when you were moving it originally)
Whilst drying things out run a test on the leads and ask yourself how old they are.
I am not keen on the idea of all the fitting and refitting of the shields etc.
Good luck
Dave
mb450 said:
Might be the ignition amp - not sure what or how to test it?
I don't either, thats why I keep a spare... It has been the root of a few perplexing starting problems in the past. The others have been faulty rev counter somehow defeating the coil, and injectors sticking open (but the injectors normally still allow a few puts & pops..)
Dave
PS: Do remember If you have no firing at all - it can only be the common (across all 8) bits of the ignition system, if you have even crossed leads there will be some telltale pops
Dave
Righto - thanks for all the advice folks.
I went out early this morning and picked up two new ignition modules. EIther way I'll have a spare. I also managed to get a new coolant ecu sensor (£4.00) just because they happened to have the right one in stock when I asked and at that price I thought "what the hell".
I've now replaced the ignition module and the ecu coolant sensor. I've checked the (new) coil is wired up correctly and I've replaced the king lead as I wasn't happy it was intact. The HT leads are about two months old and I've checked and rechecked them to made sure they're in the correct firing order (checked TDC of cylinder 1 corresponds to where I was expecting 1 to be on the distributor).
I've checked inside the distributor cap swapped the rotor arm with a spare.
I've got the battery and a spare optima 'redtop' on charge.
Going to leave them it all to charge over night and leave the plugs out (still) with the garage heaters on then I'm going to give it a go in the morning.
Fingers crossed! :-)
I went out early this morning and picked up two new ignition modules. EIther way I'll have a spare. I also managed to get a new coolant ecu sensor (£4.00) just because they happened to have the right one in stock when I asked and at that price I thought "what the hell".
I've now replaced the ignition module and the ecu coolant sensor. I've checked the (new) coil is wired up correctly and I've replaced the king lead as I wasn't happy it was intact. The HT leads are about two months old and I've checked and rechecked them to made sure they're in the correct firing order (checked TDC of cylinder 1 corresponds to where I was expecting 1 to be on the distributor).
I've checked inside the distributor cap swapped the rotor arm with a spare.
I've got the battery and a spare optima 'redtop' on charge.
Going to leave them it all to charge over night and leave the plugs out (still) with the garage heaters on then I'm going to give it a go in the morning.
Fingers crossed! :-)
spend said:
mb450 said:
Might be the ignition amp - not sure what or how to test it?
I don't either, thats why I keep a spare... It has been the root of a few perplexing starting problems in the past. If you think it's flooded I was told to remove the fuel pump relay and continue to crank (so no fuel gets through), usually coughs a bit as it tries to fire. Then take the plugs out. At least you've helped dry the cylinders. Dry the plugs and pop them and the relay back in and it should fire.
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