Clutch change

[TVR450s]

Has anyone replaced a clutch recently?? I believe the sequence is something like;

TVR Chimaera clutch replacement.

1. Remove exhaust
2. Drain g/box oil
3. Remove prop shaft
4. Disconnect gear lever linkage
5. disconnect reverse light switch
6. Support G/box.
7. Remove G/box support mount
8. Remove 4 bolts attaching G/box to bell housing
9. Slide aft and remove G/box assy from car.
10. Remove slave cylinder from bell housing.
11. Remove bell housing bolts and remove bell housing.
12. remove clutch assy from flywheel.


Any guidance welcome, not sure if the G/box can be removed with the bell housing attached.

Thanks

[s p a c e m a n]

T5? I got mine out with the bell housing on, didn't seem worth the hassle of splitting them, only annoying bit was getting the front of the linkage off.

[TVR450s]

Yep T5. good, bell housing on then.

TA.

[spend]

Then you need to unbolt that nasty UJ for the linkage on top of the bellhousing I guess.

[TVR450s]

yea, is that the 'bend your elbow the other way' linkage.

Does anyone see an obvious omission in my removal steps?

[s p a c e m a n]

Yeah, you've missed out the several steps of making tea and applying plasters

Need to take off the rear antiroll bar before exhaust..

Starter motor? Can't remember as I did mine last year, but think I removed it.

Edited by s p a c e m a n on Wednesday 9th July 16:23

[mattrosersv]

Yes Starter motor as well. I am sure I have done it with bell housing and box as one before, but having recently taken mine out and working on my own I fought and sweated with it for ages scratching my new chassis paint then gave up and split them. Working on your on it might be easier for the sake of 4 bolts.

I would add to your list - disconnect the ARB to get exhaust off. I think you can just undo the mounts and pull it down leaving it attached to tie bars and slide the exhaust out although I aways disconnect one side tie bar and leave it hanging to give me wiggle room. Don't forget the exhaust bolt that goes into the engine block at the front.

You don't need to drain the box. You can remove the box and prop as one. Don't pull the prop out the box without draining the oil tho....

The 13mm nut on the lever linkage bar at the front of the bell housing is a PITA.

To get a few mm clearance for your fingers undoing the top bell housing bolts you can remove the gearbox mount rubbers which then tilts the box & engine slightly. The bolts that hold the gearbox mounting plates to the box (17mm) are a pain as you can't get a socket in - I stuck some weld on the bolt head so that it jams against the box and does not spin last time I had it out

Starter motor comes off - no need to disconnect electrics - zip tie to chassis and leave it hanging - worth disconnecting the battery first..

There is also the metal plate between that (IIRC) bolts both to the bottom of the block and to the bell housing (8mm bolts I think).

Have an assortment of socket extensions and UJs to hand!

Can't think of anything else at the mo.

Matt

[TVR450s]

Great gen thanks. A bit of prep can save much time and effort.

[shephard61]

Hi can anyone help!!!!! should explain, I live in New Zealand so TVR's are quite thin on the Ground over here, my Chimaera 400HC was imported from Japan to New Zealand, I just love the car, the sound and road holding. My question is, does anyone know the Clutch part numbers ? I understand, it an Landrover Part ??? Kiwis understand LR parts, but eyes go blank when say TVR share same parts . I know I can get one from UK....But the weight puts the shipping cost up . From one ex-Brit now living in NZ Thanks

[ChimpOnGas]

shephard61 said:

Hi can anyone help!!!!! should explain, I live in New Zealand so TVR's are quite thin on the Ground over here, my Chimaera 400HC was imported from Japan to New Zealand, I just love the car, the sound and road holding. My question is, does anyone know the Clutch part numbers ? I understand, it an Landrover Part ??? Kiwis understand LR parts, but eyes go blank when say TVR share same parts . I know I can get one from UK....But the weight puts the shipping cost up . From one ex-Brit now living in NZ Thanks

What year is your Chimaera?

More specifically what you need to establish is what box you have, both transmissions are 23T spline, but be careful, when it comes to clutches there are differences.

You'll have one of these two boxes:

1. The British Leyland LT77 as used in the Rover SD1 V8, Range Rover, Defender & Discovery V8, this is the box TVR used on Chimaeras & Griffs up to early/mid 1995

Apparently TVR used a 3.5 V8 LDV Van clutch but I'm pretty sure a 5 speed manual Range Rover Classic 3.5l V8 is the same, AP Racing make a quality clutch... their part numbers are:

Friction plate: CP5077-14

Clutch cover: CP5077-15


2. The later Borg Warner T5 commonly found on early to mid 90's Chevrolet s10 Pickups, Ford Mustangs, Camaros and the Ford Sierra Cosworth to name but a few, TVR used this box from mid 1995 on.. and in the highest 'Z' spec offered by BW. The AP part numbers are.....

Friction plate: CP2346-4

Clutch cover: CP2394-14

The above for the T5 is considered by AP to be a competition setup, and is rated at 339 ft/lbs torque.

Searching the above part numbers the AP Website now becomes very helpful for identifying the exact specification of each part in detail (splines, dowels, cover dia ect ect ect), this will prove very useful given your location on the planet..

Having worked in Rotorua for the NZ Forestry Corporation myself back in the 1990's (big logging plant, stradles, 1950's Kenwoods ect) I know how resourceful Kiwi mechanics can be at sourcing parts. Providing your guys with the spec from the AP site will definitely give them a head start, I expect a good NZ mechanic will be able to mix and match something like a common Ford & Land Rover friction/cover combination.

https://www.apracing.com/product_details/performan...

However, it has to be said removal and measurement on the bench is by far the most reliable method of securing an exact match, and I'm sure your mechanics will have suggested this already. Do keep in mind a mix & match arrangement needs to be up to the job, while I appreciate it'll be expensive for you, if you really want to be sure your new clutch will last the best option will always be to invest in that proper AP competition setup from the UK.

Or get the help of the NZ hot rod scene, or some of the very talented engineers I used to know in the speedway (Midget racing) scene who could literally make anything in their machine shop on the farm.... from scratch . You're in the land of some of the best engineering problem solvers I've ever met, so I very much doubt you'll need to pay UK TVR specialist prices for something as straightforward as a clutch for your Chimaera.

[SteveSNZ]

I also live in NZ (Auckland) and have a Chime, my car is ex UK. I emigrate to NZ from Scotland in 1991. If you don't already know Jim Gamsby you should look him up. www.tvrnz.co.nz. Jim regularly brings over parts and with his contacts and experience you always get the right part and as fright is shared with many customers his costs are pretty reasonable.

Good luck. Steve