LENSO WHEELS....

[s3c chris]

Hi.
My Lenso BSX wheels arrived today.

Sadly due to a mix up at source they have sent the 7.5x17 rims instead of the 8.5" so fitting will have to wait!
Not very happy but they have agreed to sort it out for me so hopefully all will be ok.

Just one point. Do Lenso wheels need spigot rings? I was under the impression they were machined to the correct size, just wondered if those of you who have them could clarify the point?

Regards Chris.

[simonwedge]

Yes, you will need spigot rings. Mine were included when the wheels were delivered.

Simon

[PVN]

Mine were machined to the correct size. No spigot rings required. Sorry to bring confusion!

[s3c chris]

Thanks for the reply Simon.

Apparently the Lenso wheels do now require spigot rings whereas the early versions were machined.
A shame really as I never really liked plastic rings but I suppose they only centralise the wheel.

One thing Simon if I may ask< where did you get the centre cap badges from?

Thanks, Chris.

[simonwedge]

Chris

I got them from ebay e.g. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TVR-Self-Adhesive-Set-of... . I had to get some that were very slightly too big and just rub some sandpaper round them.

You can also readily get the spigot rings from ebay if you need to. Inner wheel centre bore is 63.4mm - you'll just need to measure the bore in the wheels themselves.

Simon

[s3c chris]

Well the wheels arrived at last!

After being supplied a size for the rear I didn't order and one "marked" front wheel which was replaced, I took them to get nice new Yoko's fitted on Friday. Three went according to plan but disaster struck on the last wheel and the centre threaded part of the wheel (where the centre cap screws on) got crushed by the machine! what happened I don't know but it is worth bearing in mind if you have these wheels. The machine used was a state of the art one for runflat tyres apparerntly so maybe that was the wrong one for these wheels?

Another wait while the tyre company get another wheel for me.......

One thing I have noticed with the wheels though... the 8.5x17et35 rear wheel spokes are very close to the rear brake caliper. Also the rear wheel studs seem a few mm too long and the centre cap will not sit flush to the wheel without grinding a little off the stud. I've not heard of this before with the BSX wheels, anybody else have this problem?

Regards Chris.

[s3c chris]

Can't believe I've actually put a photo on here, amazing!

[SILICONEKID345HP]

SILICONEKID345HP said:

Spigot rings can be purcased made of aluninium and shorter studs from fleabay .

Are these lenso wheels Chinese ?

You dont want run flats on these cars .

[s3c chris]

I think the wheels are made in China but I guess many are these days.
It was only the machine they used for runflats, the (experienced) fitter thought the tyres would go on easier by using it!

My guess is that it wan't properly clamped down but we all make mistakes i suppose!

Regards Chris

[SILICONEKID345HP]

s3c chris said:

I think the wheels are made in China but I guess many are these days.
It was only the machine they used for runflats, the (experienced) fitter thought the tyres would go on easier by using it!

My guess is that it wan't properly clamped down but we all make mistakes i suppose!

Regards Chris

I always use a good local fitter who is actualy interested .These young lads are aninals when changing tyres .

[davetripletvr]

SILICONEKID345HP said:

s3c chris said:

I think the wheels are made in China but I guess many are these days.
It was only the machine they used for runflats, the (experienced) fitter thought the tyres would go on easier by using it!

My guess is that it wan't properly clamped down but we all make mistakes i suppose!

Regards Chris

I always use a good local fitter who is actualy interested .These young lads are aninals when changing tyres .

+1

[Brithunter]

Simple really he used a tapared thingy and the pressure pulling it down was too high and the alloy spigot too thin to withstand the pressure and it gave out. Poor design in many ways.

[RobXjcoupe]

s3c chris said:

Well the wheels arrived at last!

After being supplied a size for the rear I didn't order and one "marked" front wheel which was replaced, I took them to get nice new Yoko's fitted on Friday. Three went according to plan but disaster struck on the last wheel and the centre threaded part of the wheel (where the centre cap screws on) got crushed by the machine! what happened I don't know but it is worth bearing in mind if you have these wheels. The machine used was a state of the art one for runflat tyres apparerntly so maybe that was the wrong one for these wheels?

Another wait while the tyre company get another wheel for me.......

One thing I have noticed with the wheels though... the 8.5x17et35 rear wheel spokes are very close to the rear brake caliper. Also the rear wheel studs seem a few mm too long and the centre cap will not sit flush to the wheel without grinding a little off the stud. I've not heard of this before with the BSX wheels, anybody else have this problem?

Regards Chris.

When they cast wheels there is suitable material on the rear hub face for a given amount of different offsets. Although technically you have the same et35mm on the 8.5j rim to actually achieve that measurement requires more material to be removed than on a 7.5j rim with the same offset. People get confused that although the wheel offsets are the same, the amount of wheel in front of and behind the centre line of the wheel can vary enough to make a difference when machining to certain sizes. In your case an et30mm on the 8.5j rim would have been a better choice for caliper clearance even though the same style wheel on a 7.5j et35mm gave the tested clearance.
Imagine a wheel width with a centreline and half the given width each side of the line. That centreline is the mounting face. Now move the mounting face 35mm. One half gains 35mm of width the other loses 35mm of width. Now use this method on two different wheel widths and that shows the how different he dimensions are per wheel width with the same offset.
The above explains lack of caliper clearance. Studs seemingly too long is a machining mistake and not compensating for extra material off the hub face but still machined the front face wheel nut tapers at the narrower wheel same offset dimension. Basically the tapers are machined too deep giving extra wheel stud length.
You should measure the difference between the new wheels and old to be certain.
Hope all that makes sense? :s

[s3c chris]

That does indeed make perfect sense and are the conclusions that I have come too as well.

What does surprise me is the fact that many cars have these exact spec wheels fitted and I have never heard of a problem before and apparently neither have Rimluxe who supplied the wheels. I'm still waiting for the tyre company to get the new wheel too!

Regards Chris.

[RobXjcoupe]

s3c chris said:

That does indeed make perfect sense and are the conclusions that I have come too as well.

What does surprise me is the fact that many cars have these exact spec wheels fitted and I have never heard of a problem before and apparently neither have Rimluxe who supplied the wheels. I'm still waiting for the tyre company to get the new wheel too!

Regards Chris.

I assume your rear hub studs are standard? I know not ideal, use a 3mm spacer to reduce the stud length to get the centre caps on and gives a bit more rear caliper clearance.
Out of curiosity measure your 8.5j wheel to make sure they are indeed a 35mm offset. Then you can inform rimlux accordingly

[s3c chris]

Thanks for the reply.

I have already measured the wheels and they are as stated 35mm offset.
As far as I know everything about the hubs and studs are standard but after saying that I don't know how far a standard stud protrudes from the mounting face.
A spacer is a thought although that may cause even more problems with the tyre clearance issues. I have yet to drive the car to see if any wheelarch fouling occurs.
The ADO8r's seem to measure over 260mm wide when fitted to the rim so that might be an issue too!

Regards Chris.

[RobXjcoupe]

A wheel usually measures approx an inch wider approx the outer most faces. So for your 8.5j the maximum width will be 9.5" which is 240mm. Your tyre measures 260mm which gives a overhang of 10mm each side of the wheel. Which I would say is bang on.
This is me personally, if you go maximum wheel width with minimum inner and outer standard arch clearance I choose a tyre width with a slight stretch. Sometimes this works out not a lot wider than standard. So your 8.5j would wear a 245 width tyre as that only gives 2mm overhang on the wheel or a 235 width gives a slight stretch putting the tyre about 3mm inside the outer wheel width and thus give wheel arch clearance.
If you think there could be clearance issues can your tyre fitter/supplier exchange for a slightly narrower width before you use the wheel/tyre?
What actual tyre size do you have on your new 8.5j rear wheel?
With regards to wheel stud length I think they are 38-40mm long minus the hub casting thickness and brake disc.
I hope the above helps?

[s3c chris]

Hi Rob.

Your measurements are spot on as regards the wheel width and I will measure the studs as well.

I took a chance on tyre sizes and went for 255/40 x 17. The on line calculators suggested an increase of only 5mm each side in the width over the 245 tyres fitted as standard so I hoped I would get away with it. In reality the tyre seems much wider than it's stated width. I still may be ok but can't be sure until I get the other wheel! I think even small spacers would aggrevate the problem.

In relation to the wheel arch the rear tyre seems no farther out than the 225's on the front and that size has never caused a problem. It's mot a good picture but you can probably see what I mean.

In the old days before the internet, we would all just use our instincts and try these things out. Sometimes I fell we can can all get lost in the research and get lots of different answers and sometimes nine are conclusive! The only way is often to try....

Thanks for your help, much appreciated

Regards Chris.

[RobXjcoupe]

I'm a child born in the 70's so I'm pre Internet also . I'm working from experience too. Yoko's always seem to be generous with there sizes and always a size bigger than say a Michelin. Pirelli on the other hand always come up smaller. So if clearance is an issue a Pirelli tyre seems to have plenty of clearance for its width .
My old jag coupe has 9j rear wheels with an inner wheel arch clearance of 5mm and the same on the outer arch with rolled lips. 235 width tyres were used as they have a slight stretch which aided the tight clearance I had. From behind the car the rear tyres look huge when they are not that in reality. I could fit 245 width but I would need an 8j rim to give a similar clearance. It's hard to explain sometimes as in your head you need wider wheels for wider tyres, but in reality it can be backwards and that's not taking into account of the profile height lol.
Looking at your picture I think a 235 40/45 r17 yoko on the 8.5j rear wheel would have been ideal with no rubbing once the suspension starts moving up and down.
Perfect style of wheel though

[RobXjcoupe]

This is the back of my estate car with 8.5j rear wheels. The tyre size is 215 45 r17 and they look wide.

Side picture shows the 7.5j fronts. 215 45 r17 on the front. They look normal