Turbo Install 4 weeks in
Discussion
Well I have been running the chim for 4 weeks now with the turbo installed and am not too impressed so far.
I think I went too big with the turbo, GT35, and it is not spooling up until about 3.5-4k revs. When it does kick in I am not even hitting 2psi of boost but it flies along.
I am going to drop down to a GT30 and see if that makes for fasting spooling.
I will post some results and some pics soon..!
If anyone has any other recommendations of suitable turbo size I am all ears..!
I heard the Holset HX35 was quite good.
I think I went too big with the turbo, GT35, and it is not spooling up until about 3.5-4k revs. When it does kick in I am not even hitting 2psi of boost but it flies along.
I am going to drop down to a GT30 and see if that makes for fasting spooling.
I will post some results and some pics soon..!
If anyone has any other recommendations of suitable turbo size I am all ears..!
I heard the Holset HX35 was quite good.
It should make a lot of boost, way more then 2psi. Are you sure you're not pressurising the crankcase as well as the plenum? It's been done before when people get the pipework wrong.
Also, before picking a turbo start with a hp requirement and then work out how much air will deliver it. Then choose the turbo. You may have done this already in which case there may be something amiss with the installation. It should put a massive grin on your face and make your heart pound, lol.
Also, before picking a turbo start with a hp requirement and then work out how much air will deliver it. Then choose the turbo. You may have done this already in which case there may be something amiss with the installation. It should put a massive grin on your face and make your heart pound, lol.
I did have an issue with the oil pressure shooting up but that seems to have gone now since I made some changes last week.
Not sure how I can get the tubing wrong though (no sarcasm intended!). I might remove the intercooler and replace that with a piece of pipe to see if that is causing a restriction. or remove the air filter.
You think a GT35 should be good for a 4ltr engine?
Not sure how I can get the tubing wrong though (no sarcasm intended!). I might remove the intercooler and replace that with a piece of pipe to see if that is causing a restriction. or remove the air filter.
You think a GT35 should be good for a 4ltr engine?
andy-w said:
I did have an issue with the oil pressure shooting up but that seems to have gone now since I made some changes last week.
Not sure how I can get the tubing wrong though (no sarcasm intended!). I might remove the intercooler and replace that with a piece of pipe to see if that is causing a restriction. or remove the air filter.
You think a GT35 should be good for a 4ltr engine?
With the tubing you need to have one way valves installed so as not to pressurise the rocker covers. I'm assuming you still have a pcv circuit (closed engine)?Not sure how I can get the tubing wrong though (no sarcasm intended!). I might remove the intercooler and replace that with a piece of pipe to see if that is causing a restriction. or remove the air filter.
You think a GT35 should be good for a 4ltr engine?
It won't be a restriction on the turbo outlet imo otherwise you'd have blown a hose by now. Where are you measuring boost pressure? I referenced to the plenum.
I don't know the flow rate for a GT35 but I'm sure it would make a lot more then 2 psi.
I have just got the firetrap on top of the rocker cover venting to atmos. I have also ran with the oil filler cap off (briefly) and that made no difference.
I have got some more tube on order and will go from the firetrap to the intake before the turbo. See if that makes a difference.
Must admit it is still all a bit new to me.
I have got some more tube on order and will go from the firetrap to the intake before the turbo. See if that makes a difference.
Must admit it is still all a bit new to me.
andy-w said:
I have just got the firetrap on top of the rocker cover venting to atmos. I have also ran with the oil filler cap off (briefly) and that made no difference.
I have got some more tube on order and will go from the firetrap to the intake before the turbo. See if that makes a difference.
Must admit it is still all a bit new to me.
Ok, so you're engines venting to atmosphere. You can leave it like that for now if you like. Can you check that there are no hoses from the plenum or intake manifold that enter the engine. While your at it, have you got a check valve in the servo hose.I have got some more tube on order and will go from the firetrap to the intake before the turbo. See if that makes a difference.
Must admit it is still all a bit new to me.
Can you hear any loud whistling when you're driving along? The boost is going some place.
Thats whats bugging me the most. No loud whistle..!!
Although with a straight through exhaust it might be muffled.
100% confident that there are no hises going from plenum to engine unless i am missing something.
If i remove the elbow going to thd plenjm and rev the engine there is enough air being forced through to blow out a lighter.
Daft question.
Is an intercooler directional..?
If i remove the airfilter and hold my hand over the inlet it will stall the engine. So i guess there are no leaks although if it was leaking on compression then suction *could* seal the leak.
Although with a straight through exhaust it might be muffled.
100% confident that there are no hises going from plenum to engine unless i am missing something.
If i remove the elbow going to thd plenjm and rev the engine there is enough air being forced through to blow out a lighter.
Daft question.
Is an intercooler directional..?
If i remove the airfilter and hold my hand over the inlet it will stall the engine. So i guess there are no leaks although if it was leaking on compression then suction *could* seal the leak.
What wastegate and spring combination?
Is it a genuine Garrett or a clone GT35?
What turbine housing size (the hot side)?
When you are seeing (lack of) boost, what gear and how much load is the engine under? You will make more boost pulling in higher gears (watch out for detonation if still setting up).
What instrumentation are you using to measure boost (if you have an aftermarket ECU and are using a MAP sensor, is that verifying your boost gauge is reporting accurately)?
You can safely assume a GT35 will make well north of 500 bhp on a RV8 - there's a couple on here nudging 6 with 4.5/4.6
Is it a genuine Garrett or a clone GT35?
What turbine housing size (the hot side)?
When you are seeing (lack of) boost, what gear and how much load is the engine under? You will make more boost pulling in higher gears (watch out for detonation if still setting up).
What instrumentation are you using to measure boost (if you have an aftermarket ECU and are using a MAP sensor, is that verifying your boost gauge is reporting accurately)?
You can safely assume a GT35 will make well north of 500 bhp on a RV8 - there's a couple on here nudging 6 with 4.5/4.6
Thanks for the help guys and there is plenty for me to check over the next frew days.
Turbo is a clone GT35 with AR.64. I did not want to start with a genuine garret and run the risk of destroying it on first run..!
Wastegate is 40mm set at 8psi, which i am going to change to 11 this weekend.
I have also just realised something. For my map sensor i have connected with a t piece to the small tube runing to the stepper motor. I am now thinking this is a bad idea and will be changing it to the top of the plenum where my boost gauge is connected.

Above was gradual acceleration, not to hard.

This was more spirited.
Turbo is a clone GT35 with AR.64. I did not want to start with a genuine garret and run the risk of destroying it on first run..!
Wastegate is 40mm set at 8psi, which i am going to change to 11 this weekend.
I have also just realised something. For my map sensor i have connected with a t piece to the small tube runing to the stepper motor. I am now thinking this is a bad idea and will be changing it to the top of the plenum where my boost gauge is connected.
Above was gradual acceleration, not to hard.
This was more spirited.
Edited by andy-w on Tuesday 14th February 10:17
I wouldn't be in a hurry to ramp the wastegate up... to be honest, I would put the smallest spring I have in there and incrementally increase wastegate effect a click at a time on a simple bleed boost controller (such as a Turbosmart Boost T) so you can see what it's doing... fact is on that housing at those rpm almost irrespective of load it should be making far more boost that you're seeing. That's probably a good thing just on the ignition figures alone... 28 all in NA is normally it for any RV*8 under significant load - 23 is a good rule of thumb for FI above 10psi or so; you're way above that. (is it pinging; it should be?)
What air filter set up have you got; is the throttle opening fully (really); what injectors and rail pressure are you running?
You're trying to run before you can walk - take it right back so that it is only just making enough boost to see atmospheric equivalent pressure in the plenum under WFO load and tune from there a smidge at a time.
Or put the 11psi spring in and watch for the silver smoke... it should happen right after it spools
What air filter set up have you got; is the throttle opening fully (really); what injectors and rail pressure are you running?
You're trying to run before you can walk - take it right back so that it is only just making enough boost to see atmospheric equivalent pressure in the plenum under WFO load and tune from there a smidge at a time.
Or put the 11psi spring in and watch for the silver smoke... it should happen right after it spools
Not heard it pinging.
To be honest it is running really well and flies along.
I think your right about taking it back and starting again but the figures for timing that i am using are from maps i have found on interweb.
If anyone has other maps that i could use as a baseline i am more than happy to give them a go..!
To be honest it is running really well and flies along.
I think your right about taking it back and starting again but the figures for timing that i am using are from maps i have found on interweb.
If anyone has other maps that i could use as a baseline i am more than happy to give them a go..!
andy-w said:
Not heard it pinging.
To be honest it is running really well and flies along.
!
Op you said this at the start of your thread,To be honest it is running really well and flies along.
!
"Well I have been running the chim for 4 weeks now with the turbo installed and am not too impressed so far".
That turbo should be kicking your arse from 2k upwards. You should be impressed. The transformation from n/s to boost is like day to night.
Are you just using MAP as your load reference or throttle angle as well? If so, would help to see a trace
Assuming the throttle is open and engine being loaded, 30+ degrees of advance is way too much for boost (but beware of retarding too much too as it will raise gas temperatures very quickly). It's crude but half to one degree out per pound of boost is not a bad rule of thumb from 28 degrees (under load).
Obviously, cruise can be pretty much as normal and on minimal loadings I'm running as high as 43 deg in the 3 to 4.5 k area
AFR does look bogging rich but the trace is hardly stable - under half a bar, 12 is fine in my experience but not so easy to achieve consistently.
What are the plugs looking like (and what grade)?
Assuming the throttle is open and engine being loaded, 30+ degrees of advance is way too much for boost (but beware of retarding too much too as it will raise gas temperatures very quickly). It's crude but half to one degree out per pound of boost is not a bad rule of thumb from 28 degrees (under load).
Obviously, cruise can be pretty much as normal and on minimal loadings I'm running as high as 43 deg in the 3 to 4.5 k area
AFR does look bogging rich but the trace is hardly stable - under half a bar, 12 is fine in my experience but not so easy to achieve consistently.
What are the plugs looking like (and what grade)?
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It runs at 18psi.
