Discussion
Original pistons in original bores honed 20,000 miles ago with new rings, bit of oil on the end cylinders passing by maybe but nothing major.
Breather pipes are also very clean.
These plugs have done under 3000 miles 6 grade so slightly hotter and compared to 7's that were always black seem to be burning off those deposits more efficiently,,, I hope.
Breather pipes are also very clean.
These plugs have done under 3000 miles 6 grade so slightly hotter and compared to 7's that were always black seem to be burning off those deposits more efficiently,,, I hope.
Music to my ears Ian, Dom looks at me gone out some days. 
I'm very happy with these results. Been checking water level daily and only used it 2 or 3 times for local journeys but not moving until I know stat has opened. Upto temps etc and one spirited acceleration upto about 4000 revs before parking it and doing this plug test.
So in essence chugging about.
I'm very happy with these results. Been checking water level daily and only used it 2 or 3 times for local journeys but not moving until I know stat has opened. Upto temps etc and one spirited acceleration upto about 4000 revs before parking it and doing this plug test.
So in essence chugging about.
Hi Chris, since bleeding the system temps hsve been good but there's a possibility my swirl pot bung has been drawing air in so I've just replaced it tonight and bled the system again, lots of air came out!
I've been rather busy so just tried a few garages I know for a sniffer test kit, non have one so I'm going to buy one.
I tried the trick of hovering the Gas analyser used on exhaust pipes over the expansion tank when it was warned up but it was inconclusive. Exhaust emissions are good but I have a Catt so ?
I'm going to drive the car tomorrow locally and see what happens. Bleed it again and if there's air this time I'll be staying home Sunday
Then taking it to Powers asap for a full diagnostic!!!
I've been rather busy so just tried a few garages I know for a sniffer test kit, non have one so I'm going to buy one.
I tried the trick of hovering the Gas analyser used on exhaust pipes over the expansion tank when it was warned up but it was inconclusive. Exhaust emissions are good but I have a Catt so ?
I'm going to drive the car tomorrow locally and see what happens. Bleed it again and if there's air this time I'll be staying home Sunday
Then taking it to Powers asap for a full diagnostic!!!
Couldn't wait until tomorrow. As far as I'm concearned it's been bled correctly and there was no air in the system so I've been for a hoon.
Did a load of local stuff fully upto temps showing 90 on gauge and left to tickover as I took pictures used my local dual carriageways to get some revs up etc. Temps bang on 70 when moving.
40 mins later I've pulled over and checked things a couple of times, I'm happy enough so test power, push the revs.
Return home car on 70 and no boiling or noises. Engine sounds ok, feels fast.
Decided to drive it this evening so it can fully cool down by morning and I can do a bleed test again. If there's air tomorrow it's time to look deeper.
Did a load of local stuff fully upto temps showing 90 on gauge and left to tickover as I took pictures
used my local dual carriageways to get some revs up etc. Temps bang on 70 when moving. 40 mins later I've pulled over and checked things a couple of times, I'm happy enough so test power, push the revs.
Return home car on 70 and no boiling or noises. Engine sounds ok, feels fast.
Decided to drive it this evening so it can fully cool down by morning and I can do a bleed test again. If there's air tomorrow it's time to look deeper.
Knowing me I am but you can't argue the fact air is in my system every time I bleed it.
I'm now confident there's no loose ends that can be drawing air in so I'm praying tomorrow will be a good day!
I'm actually reasonably confident,,,,, , Not.
Best be pragmatic about it whatever it is.
I even hoovered the inside ( once a year it gets that ) and cleaned me Brembos for Sunday
I'm now confident there's no loose ends that can be drawing air in so I'm praying tomorrow will be a good day!
I'm actually reasonably confident,,,,, , Not.
Best be pragmatic about it whatever it is.
I even hoovered the inside ( once a year it gets that ) and cleaned me Brembos for Sunday
I've bled the system at least 3 times in the last week, each time air comes out, today a lot of air.
Today I revved it over 4000 and above then off throttle with huge bubbles emerging.
Water colour is still good so that's promising.
There's a niggle in my head I've never got all the air out because I don't normally rev it that high, probably 3500 at most. I did my usual bleed process until no bubbles and fans came on off a few times then revved it high, only then did I get more air so I carried on for a few more minutes at high low revs until there was absolutely no air.
Could be as simple as that
It's so easy to bleed these cars I'm flummoxed
Today I revved it over 4000 and above then off throttle with huge bubbles emerging.
Water colour is still good so that's promising.
There's a niggle in my head I've never got all the air out because I don't normally rev it that high, probably 3500 at most. I did my usual bleed process until no bubbles and fans came on off a few times then revved it high, only then did I get more air so I carried on for a few more minutes at high low revs until there was absolutely no air.
Could be as simple as that
It's so easy to bleed these cars I'm flummoxed
Hi Alun,
Some tips to help
Its been my experience a good indication my cooling system is not bled fully is what I call 'The Heater Gurgle'. That is when I open the heater valve to warm the cockpit I hear water rushing & gurgling noises from the area of the heater box. Once properly bled I've found I do not get this gurgling sound, what do you hear when you turn your heater control to hot?
I've found the best bleed is achieved by jacking the front of the car as high as I can get it, this puts the heater at a low point so the bulk of the coolant in the engine block and radiator is acting to help force the trapped air through the heater matrix. The heater is definitely the problem area where its very common for air to get trapped, raising the front of the car as high as you dare while completing the bleed process will definitely help expel this air.
Now, when you are finished the bleed you should still have a header of roughly a quarter of a litre of coolant sat in your swirl pot funnel, you now need to raise the revs, in raising the engine speed you'll find the water pump will draw coolant around the system and this last 0.25 litre in your funnel will disappear.
Holding the revs up and with that last 0.25 of coolant drawn into the system remove your now empty funnel, quickly screw your swirl pot cap in before letting the revs return to idle, an assistant is very helpful when following this procedure.
Finally on a number of occasions I've noticed you've proudly proclaimed your MBE equipped Rover V8 has been setup to idle at a very low speed, this is not good for a number of reasons. To understand why we need to understand the function of a mechanical water pump is not to create true pressure but to assist the natural process of thermosyphon, the impeller design of a mechanical water pump is such that it is more or a stirrer than a true pump in the traditional sense of the word 'pump'.
In order for the water pump to do anything at all it must be turning at a minimum speed, a mechanical pump is also a big drain on engine power at higher engine speeds so the impela design is very much a function of compromise, mechanical water pumps are very inefficient things. A mechanical water pump will do little or nothing below 900rpm (engine speed), and on the Rover V8 an idle speed of 1000rpm is preferable for this reason, by 2,500rpm the pump is really just wasting power and from this point on just wastes more and more power the higher engine speed goes.
Mechanical water pumps are used because they are reliable and trustworthy proven technology but they most definitely are not efficient devices, most modern car makers are already migrating to electric water pumps for this reason and because electric water pumps are now extremely reliable. The engine speed window where our mechanical water pumps function in an efficient and effective way is actually very narrow (1000 - 2,500rpm), if I were you and for all the above reasons I would seriously look at raising your current slow idle setting to 1000rpm as a minimum.
To achieve effective circulation of coolant at idle you should seriously consider a minimum engine idle speed of 1000rpm, lower than this and the pump really isn't doing much at all which will also make your bleed process much less effective.
None of this is a criticism, it's well intentioned advice given because you're a lovely bloke and I want to see you sorted
Dave.
Some tips to help
Its been my experience a good indication my cooling system is not bled fully is what I call 'The Heater Gurgle'. That is when I open the heater valve to warm the cockpit I hear water rushing & gurgling noises from the area of the heater box. Once properly bled I've found I do not get this gurgling sound, what do you hear when you turn your heater control to hot?
I've found the best bleed is achieved by jacking the front of the car as high as I can get it, this puts the heater at a low point so the bulk of the coolant in the engine block and radiator is acting to help force the trapped air through the heater matrix. The heater is definitely the problem area where its very common for air to get trapped, raising the front of the car as high as you dare while completing the bleed process will definitely help expel this air.
Now, when you are finished the bleed you should still have a header of roughly a quarter of a litre of coolant sat in your swirl pot funnel, you now need to raise the revs, in raising the engine speed you'll find the water pump will draw coolant around the system and this last 0.25 litre in your funnel will disappear.
Holding the revs up and with that last 0.25 of coolant drawn into the system remove your now empty funnel, quickly screw your swirl pot cap in before letting the revs return to idle, an assistant is very helpful when following this procedure.
Finally on a number of occasions I've noticed you've proudly proclaimed your MBE equipped Rover V8 has been setup to idle at a very low speed, this is not good for a number of reasons. To understand why we need to understand the function of a mechanical water pump is not to create true pressure but to assist the natural process of thermosyphon, the impeller design of a mechanical water pump is such that it is more or a stirrer than a true pump in the traditional sense of the word 'pump'.
In order for the water pump to do anything at all it must be turning at a minimum speed, a mechanical pump is also a big drain on engine power at higher engine speeds so the impela design is very much a function of compromise, mechanical water pumps are very inefficient things. A mechanical water pump will do little or nothing below 900rpm (engine speed), and on the Rover V8 an idle speed of 1000rpm is preferable for this reason, by 2,500rpm the pump is really just wasting power and from this point on just wastes more and more power the higher engine speed goes.
Mechanical water pumps are used because they are reliable and trustworthy proven technology but they most definitely are not efficient devices, most modern car makers are already migrating to electric water pumps for this reason and because electric water pumps are now extremely reliable. The engine speed window where our mechanical water pumps function in an efficient and effective way is actually very narrow (1000 - 2,500rpm), if I were you and for all the above reasons I would seriously look at raising your current slow idle setting to 1000rpm as a minimum.
To achieve effective circulation of coolant at idle you should seriously consider a minimum engine idle speed of 1000rpm, lower than this and the pump really isn't doing much at all which will also make your bleed process much less effective.
None of this is a criticism, it's well intentioned advice given because you're a lovely bloke and I want to see you sorted
Dave.
Very kind Dave.
Jacked car up when bleeding.
Raised tickover to 900 a couple of months ago.
Since starting bleeding the system last week I've not heard the rushing sound of water in the heater rad but that's not to say all the air was expelled.
I'm confident yesterday's bleed has finally expelled all the air.
I drove it for an hour yesterday like I stole it so if there's air now something's very wrong.
Call me pessimistic but I tend to look to worst case senario then work back from there.
I've never blown an engine up yet and my normal driving habits are that of smooth over harsh and revvin the engine between the lights don't float my boat, I'm very vehicle sympathetic.
I've done everything asked of me and as directed by a number of experts who have so kindly contacted me over this. Basically I do as Powers tell me which happens to coincide with what they say.
There's a serious possibility my swirl pot bung is causing issues, I noticed a small crack in the outer casing the O ring sits in, I used some small pliers and it broke off without any effort so that's now gone and a new one employed.
Today's checks and bleed will tell me more.
To have spent upwards of 20k and having a car so close to new then this, it's slightly unreal!
All I want is some Billies and an engine,,,, How hard can it be
ETA. Heater has remained hot throughout all this. It was also hot when I did hear the rush of water into or out of the matrix the night it went bonkers last week.
Jacked car up when bleeding.
Raised tickover to 900 a couple of months ago.
Since starting bleeding the system last week I've not heard the rushing sound of water in the heater rad but that's not to say all the air was expelled.
I'm confident yesterday's bleed has finally expelled all the air.
I drove it for an hour yesterday like I stole it so if there's air now something's very wrong.
Call me pessimistic but I tend to look to worst case senario then work back from there.
I've never blown an engine up yet and my normal driving habits are that of smooth over harsh and revvin the engine between the lights don't float my boat, I'm very vehicle sympathetic.
I've done everything asked of me and as directed by a number of experts who have so kindly contacted me over this. Basically I do as Powers tell me which happens to coincide with what they say.
There's a serious possibility my swirl pot bung is causing issues, I noticed a small crack in the outer casing the O ring sits in, I used some small pliers and it broke off without any effort so that's now gone and a new one employed.
Today's checks and bleed will tell me more.
To have spent upwards of 20k and having a car so close to new then this, it's slightly unreal!
All I want is some Billies and an engine,,,, How hard can it be
ETA. Heater has remained hot throughout all this. It was also hot when I did hear the rush of water into or out of the matrix the night it went bonkers last week.
Edited by ClassicChimaera on Saturday 8th April 08:42
Al, have you got one of the David Brown sump plugs - hexagon socket headed type - kicking around? They fit the swirl pot and use an O ring so might seal better for you.
http://www.mayhilltractors.com/index.php?route=pro...
And they look better than them old brass uns....
http://www.mayhilltractors.com/index.php?route=pro...
And they look better than them old brass uns....
N7GTX said:
Al, have you got one of the David Brown sump plugs - hexagon socket headed type - kicking around? They fit the swirl pot and use an O ring so might seal better for you.
http://www.mayhilltractors.com/index.php?route=pro...
And they look better than them old brass uns....
Yes Iain I have this one. I preferred the brass one, reminded me of a steam engine http://www.mayhilltractors.com/index.php?route=pro...
And they look better than them old brass uns....
Fitted it last night. Bled system today and not much air. Been out for a 50 mile drive and temps 70 rising to 90 in traffic then back to 70 on the move, fans working as you'd expect engine ran continuously for over 1 hr with no ill effects.
I'm attempting the trip to Burghley tomorrow so if it makes it there and back I'll do another effing bleed to see if air has entered the system. If it has I have to face facts.
Wish me luck.
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