Discussion
Hi folks, after over a year of upgrade contemplation and understanding of how im going to actually use the car, ie % percentage of road v track, I've come to realise that my 450 is really only ever going to be a road car, with maybe 2-3 track days a year. I felt it important to get a full understanding as this would obviously lead my upgrades.
As funds aren't endless, I've simply gone for standard, albeit Carbon Lorraine and nitrac disc breaks. Ditched spark plug extenders for socks as well as putting iridium tipped hotter plugs in - later has given it a lovely cleaner review ability up the rpm. I've a clive for y piece and I'll cut the pre-cats out when the manifolds are off. I'm keeping my 15" and 16" as a really quite like them.
I'm keeping standard bushes. Had a set of Protechs but which are now sold in favour of ordering tuston s belsteins very soon now .
Oh, and have a set of Intatrim seats ready to go in, so I guess it's clear as to my intent with the car. But, what I am struggling with is a clear path on the engine. Not many months ago I was going to sell a kidney, or two, and drive the car down to powers for a turbo and ecu...but realising that I need my organs more than a single turbo, I shelved that idea! Also, I felt a turBo 'could' lead to extra unplanned expenses in the future.
Next up was an Emerald ecu that I had been talking about with Joolz. This seemed a great idea, probably adding one of his blended bases into the conversation. This as a cert until I heard of the potential for a Gems efi to be fitted, and that appeared to be an 'even better' solution. Although I maybe appearing to be the most non-committal of folk, I like to blame it on the lack of Black and White evidence of the best bang for the buck upgrades, and not as a personal flaw!
Undecided I may of been upto now, I can unequivocally commit to keeping my car as 80-90% road use.
Ive obviously got the 450 engine in standard form. I planned to wip the heads off and port them along with and manifolds. Leave the valves (what ever they maybe in size), drop a new cam and chain, I was thinking Stealth? Increase plenum butterfly to 72mm or maybe go a full act twin carbon? Thinking about leaving the trumpets as standard 38mm?
This to all finished off with either a simple rolling road tune for my lucas, which incidently runs great, or potentially moving over to gems once we have full knowledge of what's required? Or, omex200 maybe with the Lucas?
Decisions decisions, but what I don't want to do is throw unnecessary money on my car. I'd like to upgrade as could be seen to of been done at the factory, OEM kind of style.
Would those of greater knowledge and experience (most people here I'd say) care to comment on the aboverall for me, please?
I'll do most the work from home, except of course the rolling road and planned to get the porting done by v8 developments or the like.
I'm not looking for bragging bhp, I just want the sweetest driving 45 chim I can.
Cheers.
Adrian
As funds aren't endless, I've simply gone for standard, albeit Carbon Lorraine and nitrac disc breaks. Ditched spark plug extenders for socks as well as putting iridium tipped hotter plugs in - later has given it a lovely cleaner review ability up the rpm. I've a clive for y piece and I'll cut the pre-cats out when the manifolds are off. I'm keeping my 15" and 16" as a really quite like them.
I'm keeping standard bushes. Had a set of Protechs but which are now sold in favour of ordering tuston s belsteins very soon now .
Oh, and have a set of Intatrim seats ready to go in, so I guess it's clear as to my intent with the car. But, what I am struggling with is a clear path on the engine. Not many months ago I was going to sell a kidney, or two, and drive the car down to powers for a turbo and ecu...but realising that I need my organs more than a single turbo, I shelved that idea! Also, I felt a turBo 'could' lead to extra unplanned expenses in the future.
Next up was an Emerald ecu that I had been talking about with Joolz. This seemed a great idea, probably adding one of his blended bases into the conversation. This as a cert until I heard of the potential for a Gems efi to be fitted, and that appeared to be an 'even better' solution. Although I maybe appearing to be the most non-committal of folk, I like to blame it on the lack of Black and White evidence of the best bang for the buck upgrades, and not as a personal flaw!
Undecided I may of been upto now, I can unequivocally commit to keeping my car as 80-90% road use.
Ive obviously got the 450 engine in standard form. I planned to wip the heads off and port them along with and manifolds. Leave the valves (what ever they maybe in size), drop a new cam and chain, I was thinking Stealth? Increase plenum butterfly to 72mm or maybe go a full act twin carbon? Thinking about leaving the trumpets as standard 38mm?
This to all finished off with either a simple rolling road tune for my lucas, which incidently runs great, or potentially moving over to gems once we have full knowledge of what's required? Or, omex200 maybe with the Lucas?
Decisions decisions, but what I don't want to do is throw unnecessary money on my car. I'd like to upgrade as could be seen to of been done at the factory, OEM kind of style.
Would those of greater knowledge and experience (most people here I'd say) care to comment on the aboverall for me, please?
I'll do most the work from home, except of course the rolling road and planned to get the porting done by v8 developments or the like.
I'm not looking for bragging bhp, I just want the sweetest driving 45 chim I can.
Cheers.
Adrian
The word funds is the point.
Decide what you can commit to the car happily then look at the options available.
Some things are more fundamental to power increases as are stuff that creates a happy road car.
If you have 3-4 k to spend then look to do
Dif if it's sloppy because no matter what you do if these parts are past there best your fighting a loosing battle IMO
Ecu
Second hand big front brakes
selling your old CUX and Dif/ brakes etc will offset some of the cost nicely.
These transform the cars manners, reliability and your enjoyment of the car.
If I new what I know now this is the order I'd have liked to do things.
I'd say you need 5k to do this work properly and doing the brakes yourself
but this will give you a far advanced car than some.
Most of us have little experience of Tvr and most have few test drives before buying, but there is a big difference in a really good Tvr and a tired one.
You find that once these big expensive items are sorted if your lucky your then spending less and less on maintaining it and when things go wrong it's likely to be ball joints or things that are basics.
You obviously need a healthy engine to start with, a good cam etc these after market Ecu that can advance and regard the ign very quickly coupled with a bespoke fuelling map for many will give the increase in power and smooth power take up they require.
Heads are the ultimate for N/A but then so is an engine with good compression.
Engine health checks will sort of dictate your approach I'd imagine.
There's more than one way to skin a cat and everyone has there own ideas, luckily the experience of others on here has sometimes stopped me going down blind alleys,,, I say sometimes
Decide what you can commit to the car happily then look at the options available.
Some things are more fundamental to power increases as are stuff that creates a happy road car.
If you have 3-4 k to spend then look to do
Dif if it's sloppy because no matter what you do if these parts are past there best your fighting a loosing battle IMO
Ecu
Second hand big front brakes
selling your old CUX and Dif/ brakes etc will offset some of the cost nicely.
These transform the cars manners, reliability and your enjoyment of the car.
If I new what I know now this is the order I'd have liked to do things.
I'd say you need 5k to do this work properly and doing the brakes yourself
but this will give you a far advanced car than some.
Most of us have little experience of Tvr and most have few test drives before buying, but there is a big difference in a really good Tvr and a tired one.
You find that once these big expensive items are sorted if your lucky your then spending less and less on maintaining it and when things go wrong it's likely to be ball joints or things that are basics.
You obviously need a healthy engine to start with, a good cam etc these after market Ecu that can advance and regard the ign very quickly coupled with a bespoke fuelling map for many will give the increase in power and smooth power take up they require.
Heads are the ultimate for N/A but then so is an engine with good compression.
Engine health checks will sort of dictate your approach I'd imagine.
There's more than one way to skin a cat and everyone has there own ideas, luckily the experience of others on here has sometimes stopped me going down blind alleys,,, I say sometimes
Personally I'd start by identifying what you want to achieve, e,g. shorter stopping distances, higher top speed, faster 0-60 and/or 100 acceleration, faster in gear acceleration, improved fuel economy, different handling characteristics, increased/decreased exhaust note…..
Once you have this, I’d start by talking to the experts about how best to achieve your goals. One way may be simply to upgrade to a 500, assuming you want to keep to a Chimaera?
Once you have this, I’d start by talking to the experts about how best to achieve your goals. One way may be simply to upgrade to a 500, assuming you want to keep to a Chimaera?
What I'm trying to achieve is a chimaera 450 version 2.1, kinda the natural progression of the model. What I don't want to do is try and turn it in to Porsche or a BMW if you get my drift. I love the car for what it us, just see room for improvement.
I ticked the brake upgrade option with front and rear Nitrac disc and CL Pads with braided hoses - just waiting to fit. I'm going down the Bilstein tuscon route with standard bushes. Exhaust is waiting for the clive ford y piece to go on and at sane time precats being taken out - plenty noise and improved flow. I'm very keen on a gems system if I reality it's good value, otherwise I'll probably stick with standard bit have it rolling road tuned.
With all the above, I think it's just down to what hardware to upgrade. Sticking with engine capacity is a must, but getting it to perform better across the rev range and improve is drivability is the goal.
Head work is a must, but I till I take them off I won't know how tvr decided to build my car and what valve size I have. I'm wondering here if I'm on standard size is simply porting them along with manifolds the way to go? As I said , I'm not looking for bragging writes for bhp, just the sweetest fast road engine I can. Does that automatically mean in 'need' to go big valves? Or would porting and bigger plenum suffice?
If I thought a act twin carbon plenum was the way to go I'd take that route, it just seems the majority of upgrades in that area a just the 72mm intake - is that 70-80% as good?
Talk to 5 owners and get 3-4 opinions on what's 'best' and I know that, but what's great about here is I can get 10-15opinions and between them and an expert or two, I can carve a decision! :-)
If EVO or the like was to test my car after I'd modify, I'd want the outcome to be "best all rounder" .
I ticked the brake upgrade option with front and rear Nitrac disc and CL Pads with braided hoses - just waiting to fit. I'm going down the Bilstein tuscon route with standard bushes. Exhaust is waiting for the clive ford y piece to go on and at sane time precats being taken out - plenty noise and improved flow. I'm very keen on a gems system if I reality it's good value, otherwise I'll probably stick with standard bit have it rolling road tuned.
With all the above, I think it's just down to what hardware to upgrade. Sticking with engine capacity is a must, but getting it to perform better across the rev range and improve is drivability is the goal.
Head work is a must, but I till I take them off I won't know how tvr decided to build my car and what valve size I have. I'm wondering here if I'm on standard size is simply porting them along with manifolds the way to go? As I said , I'm not looking for bragging writes for bhp, just the sweetest fast road engine I can. Does that automatically mean in 'need' to go big valves? Or would porting and bigger plenum suffice?
If I thought a act twin carbon plenum was the way to go I'd take that route, it just seems the majority of upgrades in that area a just the 72mm intake - is that 70-80% as good?
Talk to 5 owners and get 3-4 opinions on what's 'best' and I know that, but what's great about here is I can get 10-15opinions and between them and an expert or two, I can carve a decision! :-)
If EVO or the like was to test my car after I'd modify, I'd want the outcome to be "best all rounder" .
I think upgrading from the CUX14 to a modern aftermarket system can definitely deliver in the 'sweet' area - I noticed a large step-up in daily driveability after upgrading to Canems, eliminating shunting and provided a more consistent power band, something to really enjoy day-to-day.
My engine (Chim 500) already had benefitted from an extensive upgrade by Powers Performance (camshaft, followers, rocker gear, inlet manifold mods, inlet trumpet base mods, cylinder heads cc'ed etc) providing more power, but now it also had the road manners too, given this car is only used 5% of the time on tracks.
My engine (Chim 500) already had benefitted from an extensive upgrade by Powers Performance (camshaft, followers, rocker gear, inlet manifold mods, inlet trumpet base mods, cylinder heads cc'ed etc) providing more power, but now it also had the road manners too, given this car is only used 5% of the time on tracks.
AdriaanB said:
I think upgrading from the CUX14 to a modern aftermarket system can definitely deliver in the 'sweet' area - I noticed a large step-up in daily driveability after upgrading to Canems, eliminating shunting and provided a more consistent power band, something to really enjoy day-to-day.
Agree with this man. 
Ok, a slightly different POV.
In many years of owning V8 TVR's (5 cars, 350i S2, 390SE, 450SE and two Griff 500's) I've never had a single issue with the CUX14 ECU or associated components. I know some owners report shunting issues they just can't get rid of, but personally I've never experienced it.
I'm not suggesting for a moment that the CUX14 is a match for modern ECU's for controlling an engine to maximise power, torque and efficiently, but I'm definitely in the 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' camp. My Griff 500, on the original 17 year old engine made just under 300bhp on one of the most respected rolling roads last summer on the CUX14. Fully understand your desire to change ECU if you are experiencing issues, but if not, why change?
In many years of owning V8 TVR's (5 cars, 350i S2, 390SE, 450SE and two Griff 500's) I've never had a single issue with the CUX14 ECU or associated components. I know some owners report shunting issues they just can't get rid of, but personally I've never experienced it.
I'm not suggesting for a moment that the CUX14 is a match for modern ECU's for controlling an engine to maximise power, torque and efficiently, but I'm definitely in the 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' camp. My Griff 500, on the original 17 year old engine made just under 300bhp on one of the most respected rolling roads last summer on the CUX14. Fully understand your desire to change ECU if you are experiencing issues, but if not, why change?
Very valid point . I think I mentioned that my current cux runs fine, with no issues, except for a bit of shunting, but not too much. I understand this can be vastly improved by a good mapping session anyway.
I guess this highlights my points and difficulty in trying to plan a course of upgrades.
Would at '£1500' gems system over a better investment over the cux and maybe adding an act twin carbon plenum??? This is the kind of stuff that keeps me up all night!
Ok...last bit a bit exaggeration but it really does show a lot of this is down to personal opinions and maybe certain commercial bias to suppliers!
Can we get 100% accurate and unbiased RV8 TUNING book for dummies maybe????
I guess this highlights my points and difficulty in trying to plan a course of upgrades.
Would at '£1500' gems system over a better investment over the cux and maybe adding an act twin carbon plenum??? This is the kind of stuff that keeps me up all night!
Ok...last bit a bit exaggeration but it really does show a lot of this is down to personal opinions and maybe certain commercial bias to suppliers!
Can we get 100% accurate and unbiased RV8 TUNING book for dummies maybe????
Being a novice in several areas here:-
TVR ownership ...i.e not got one YET!
Rover V8's ........ never owned on YET!
Tunning ................ Hmmm did a little with my MGF's.
Now to me it seems fairly rudimentry that induction and breathing of the engine is crucial. Simple things like match inlet manifold ports to head ports. Removing steps even if it means just chamfering them to help smooth the flow! Replacing corrigated inlet hoses with smooth and fitting an better air cleaner.
These can be done fairly cheaply and should help no matter what engine management system is in use. Now where it really gets confusing is when starts to consider the mulitude of replacement upgrades for the throttles and plenum this is where we meet the smoke and mirrors it seems. Trick materials and various numbers of mulitple throttle bodies and some weird and wonderful inlet manifolds beckon to empty the wallet and fuel dreams........................................... tis a jungle out there!
TVR ownership ...i.e not got one YET!
Rover V8's ........ never owned on YET!
Tunning ................ Hmmm did a little with my MGF's.
Now to me it seems fairly rudimentry that induction and breathing of the engine is crucial. Simple things like match inlet manifold ports to head ports. Removing steps even if it means just chamfering them to help smooth the flow! Replacing corrigated inlet hoses with smooth and fitting an better air cleaner.
These can be done fairly cheaply and should help no matter what engine management system is in use. Now where it really gets confusing is when starts to consider the mulitude of replacement upgrades for the throttles and plenum this is where we meet the smoke and mirrors it seems. Trick materials and various numbers of mulitple throttle bodies and some weird and wonderful inlet manifolds beckon to empty the wallet and fuel dreams........................................... tis a jungle out there!
Any and nearly all the mods you can do offer advantages usually, no mine field.
Yes exactly use your logic and some reading to assertain what these mods offer. As said to me enough times over the years any one thing alone is unlikely to unlock big gains.
I decided quite early on I wasn't to concerned over Bhp and wanted a more torque based car.
That saved me a few quid because I have a standard induction including plenum size and trumpets. No thermal breaks boring out or raising of plenum non of that.
Good K&N filter
Smooth flowing air pipe
The engine sucks more because it's AFM has been removed, it is a big restriction on the flow and air speed into the engine.
Similar in effect to de catting, adds hp almost for free.
But you have to start with a good base so engine compression and general health is where you need to start or it's all pointless. If you have that then things like re maps or trumpetless bases become possibilities.
Rather than do things on the periphery it's probably better to spend the money on engine upgrades or repairs( cams etc) timing gear, oil pump gears, new rings gapped properly, heads and Block skimmed, this will add far more base grunt and power than anything else.
If you have a good engine, unless it's a 5.0 then your best bet is to get the heads working better because that's the worst restriction.
Trumpets and stuff can be used as part of attempts to get better flow on a standard engine and that can lead to better running and manners so still worth looking into if your staying with dizzy.
I know the search function isn't great but all these mods have been tried by others in the past and knowledge gained.
Biase. Probably but I've never suggested my cars faster beacause of who's done the work, more what work has been done to get the results, and by feck it's way faster than the standard lovely but sometimes unreliable 38,000 mile car I bought five years ago. It's just under 70,000 miles now too.
I think the mods have something to do with why it's faster.
Try and find the thread that shows off the big boys power graphs, show us your dyno figures I think it is.
That's got the fastest n/a road/ track going versions of our cars posted on there, these guys have done it all.
You'll note, it's all down to their engines spec usually.
Makes interesting and amusing reading.
I hope some of this helps
Yes exactly use your logic and some reading to assertain what these mods offer. As said to me enough times over the years any one thing alone is unlikely to unlock big gains.
I decided quite early on I wasn't to concerned over Bhp and wanted a more torque based car.
That saved me a few quid because I have a standard induction including plenum size and trumpets. No thermal breaks boring out or raising of plenum non of that.
Good K&N filter
Smooth flowing air pipe
The engine sucks more because it's AFM has been removed, it is a big restriction on the flow and air speed into the engine.
Similar in effect to de catting, adds hp almost for free.
But you have to start with a good base so engine compression and general health is where you need to start or it's all pointless. If you have that then things like re maps or trumpetless bases become possibilities.
Rather than do things on the periphery it's probably better to spend the money on engine upgrades or repairs( cams etc) timing gear, oil pump gears, new rings gapped properly, heads and Block skimmed, this will add far more base grunt and power than anything else.
If you have a good engine, unless it's a 5.0 then your best bet is to get the heads working better because that's the worst restriction.
Trumpets and stuff can be used as part of attempts to get better flow on a standard engine and that can lead to better running and manners so still worth looking into if your staying with dizzy.
I know the search function isn't great but all these mods have been tried by others in the past and knowledge gained.
Biase. Probably but I've never suggested my cars faster beacause of who's done the work, more what work has been done to get the results, and by feck it's way faster than the standard lovely but sometimes unreliable 38,000 mile car I bought five years ago. It's just under 70,000 miles now too.
I think the mods have something to do with why it's faster.
Try and find the thread that shows off the big boys power graphs, show us your dyno figures I think it is.
That's got the fastest n/a road/ track going versions of our cars posted on there, these guys have done it all.
You'll note, it's all down to their engines spec usually.
Makes interesting and amusing reading.
I hope some of this helps
Great responses.
As I'm sure is the case with most, of if not all us on here, I enjoy the research aspect of our cars nearly as much as all the other elements that go with ownership and the great community that comes with the marque.
Once I've fitted all the parts I already have sitting in my garage, I'm going to turn my attention on the engine. Good old fashioned mechanical improvements, starting with the heads (take them off and see valve size) getting them ported along with induction. A new cam. I want to get some extra power and torque, so plenum and trumpets will get looked at - 72mm v twin carbon is up in the air and down my budget at the time. If my car already has big valves, then probably the carbon, but it I need to do those , then certainly sticking with the 72mm - gotta draw the line somewhere!
With all these done it's either a sticking with cux for now, with a view to gems later on, or prehaps gems straight away, hat just depend on circumstances. As it looks like I'm going to stick with OEM management, then a larger AFM will also be added at day one.
I've got a set of new style injectors waiting to go in. Standard flow but improved spray, so I'm thinking these should suffice for my intended upgrades???
450
Fully decatted.
Big valve (if std at the mo) flowed heads.
45mm trumpets flowed to above.
Stealth cam or similar.
72mm plenum or twin carbon depending on heads.
Larger AFM
Ideally gems fitted day one, otherwise rolling road ed cux for now.
Uprated pressure regulator required?
I'll do the work myself with help from a friend (LR master tech) to keep costs down as well as the enjoyment of get down and dirty with my car. V8 developments seemed to be well priced with a food reputation for what I require.
Does he above sound like the ideal, or is there something I could loose or add for my intended Fast Road use??
As I'm sure is the case with most, of if not all us on here, I enjoy the research aspect of our cars nearly as much as all the other elements that go with ownership and the great community that comes with the marque.
Once I've fitted all the parts I already have sitting in my garage, I'm going to turn my attention on the engine. Good old fashioned mechanical improvements, starting with the heads (take them off and see valve size) getting them ported along with induction. A new cam. I want to get some extra power and torque, so plenum and trumpets will get looked at - 72mm v twin carbon is up in the air and down my budget at the time. If my car already has big valves, then probably the carbon, but it I need to do those , then certainly sticking with the 72mm - gotta draw the line somewhere!
With all these done it's either a sticking with cux for now, with a view to gems later on, or prehaps gems straight away, hat just depend on circumstances. As it looks like I'm going to stick with OEM management, then a larger AFM will also be added at day one.
I've got a set of new style injectors waiting to go in. Standard flow but improved spray, so I'm thinking these should suffice for my intended upgrades???
450
Fully decatted.
Big valve (if std at the mo) flowed heads.
45mm trumpets flowed to above.
Stealth cam or similar.
72mm plenum or twin carbon depending on heads.
Larger AFM
Ideally gems fitted day one, otherwise rolling road ed cux for now.
Uprated pressure regulator required?
I'll do the work myself with help from a friend (LR master tech) to keep costs down as well as the enjoyment of get down and dirty with my car. V8 developments seemed to be well priced with a food reputation for what I require.
Does he above sound like the ideal, or is there something I could loose or add for my intended Fast Road use??
ClassicChimaera said:
Try and find the thread that shows off the big boys power graphs, show us your dyno figures I think it is.
That's got the fastest n/a road/ track going versions of our cars posted on there, these guys have done it all.
You'll note, it's all down to their engines spec usually.
Makes interesting and amusing reading.
This thread is all about modified cars That's got the fastest n/a road/ track going versions of our cars posted on there, these guys have done it all.
You'll note, it's all down to their engines spec usually.
Makes interesting and amusing reading.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
If you've got an hour to spare, want a laugh and don't mind reading some complete and utter b
ks then this is for you 
Wow, lots of willy waving on there! Lol
Power corrupts, and I believe that can be the case with a good car being effectively less enjoyable as a driving tool with too much power. Don't get me wrong, I love the engineering side of creating pOwer, but for me it's all about getting relatively moderate increases with yet much more usable power flow.
Power corrupts, and I believe that can be the case with a good car being effectively less enjoyable as a driving tool with too much power. Don't get me wrong, I love the engineering side of creating pOwer, but for me it's all about getting relatively moderate increases with yet much more usable power flow.
N7GTX said:
This thread is all about modified cars
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
If you've got an hour to spare, want a laugh and don't mind reading some complete and utter bks then this is for you
Well the weather is not good here so once we get dinner out of the way will have a read ................................ thanks.https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
If you've got an hour to spare, want a laugh and don't mind reading some complete and utter b
ks then this is for you N7GTX said:
ClassicChimaera said:
Try and find the thread that shows off the big boys power graphs, show us your dyno figures I think it is.
That's got the fastest n/a road/ track going versions of our cars posted on there, these guys have done it all.
You'll note, it's all down to their engines spec usually.
Makes interesting and amusing reading.
This thread is all about modified cars That's got the fastest n/a road/ track going versions of our cars posted on there, these guys have done it all.
You'll note, it's all down to their engines spec usually.
Makes interesting and amusing reading.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
If you've got an hour to spare, want a laugh and don't mind reading some complete and utter b
ks then this is for you t.
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