Removing rear brake discs
Discussion
Hi,
Currently changing (or trying to) the rear discs & pads on my 96 Chimaera 500. Took me about 3 hours to get this far due to numerous seized bolts and tight access - now I'm a bit stumped!
I think I've read that the rear discs are floating and you don't need to remove the hub nut at all?
Here's a pic of my current disc and the new one...pretty sure I've got the right one but I can't get the disc off with a few taps of a hammer. Do I indeed need to remove the hub nut (I think 40mm?)
Thanks
Currently changing (or trying to) the rear discs & pads on my 96 Chimaera 500. Took me about 3 hours to get this far due to numerous seized bolts and tight access - now I'm a bit stumped!
I think I've read that the rear discs are floating and you don't need to remove the hub nut at all?
Here's a pic of my current disc and the new one...pretty sure I've got the right one but I can't get the disc off with a few taps of a hammer. Do I indeed need to remove the hub nut (I think 40mm?)
Thanks
andy43 said:
Clips I've seen (not on a tvr) are like a wide washer that grip the wheel stud and sit against the disc - can't see 'em in your pic. Any chance it's just paint and crud and rust on the back that's stopping movement? Larger 'adjuster' required 
Exactly that - copious plus gas, scraping off as much crud as I could and then a big f off hammer and...it's off.I think I need a beer!
Thanks guys.
Iirc there's a gap in the hub that allows you to put a bar onto the back side of the disk mating surface, whacking that with a big hammer got me a good result the last time that one was stuck.
Beer is always good to celebrate with, but I find it makes it harder to put the stuff you've taken apart back together again
Beer is always good to celebrate with, but I find it makes it harder to put the stuff you've taken apart back together again
A puller is the best bet as it does not strain the hub bearings. Bashing the disc off may damage the hub bearings. This is not an issue that is only found on TVR's stuck discs re common on many cars especially ones that are left standing for long periods and used little...eg low annual mileage cars.
this is an issue on a car that's had the discs on to long. Hit a curb on a race circuit at 130 mph, the hub bearings are quite strong. ! GR_TVR said:
andy43 said:
Clips I've seen (not on a tvr) are like a wide washer that grip the wheel stud and sit against the disc - can't see 'em in your pic. Any chance it's just paint and crud and rust on the back that's stopping movement? Larger 'adjuster' required
Exactly that - copious plus gas, scraping off as much crud as I could and then a big f off hammer and...it's off.I think I need a beer!
Thanks guys.
Just a thought once you have all the new parts fitted, I've found the standard Ford pads tend to stick to the disc if you park up with a hot rear disc and handbrake applied. Then the pads are damaged afterwards with bits missing due to being pulled off.
Basically with hot discs park up, turn engine off then put into gear rather than apply the handbrake
Basically with hot discs park up, turn engine off then put into gear rather than apply the handbrake
Good advice from others here about stuck discs needing a bit of 'encouragement' for removal - my front discs needed help from a BFH.
Sorry if it's in the bleedin' obvious category of things to check (just sharing from my own mistakes) - One thing to have a look for when fitting you new shiny discs is that the face on the hub is clear of debris so the disc sits flush.
Sorry if it's in the bleedin' obvious category of things to check (just sharing from my own mistakes) - One thing to have a look for when fitting you new shiny discs is that the face on the hub is clear of debris so the disc sits flush.
oily mist said:
Good advice from others here about stuck discs needing a bit of 'encouragement' for removal - my front discs needed help from a BFH.
Sorry if it's in the bleedin' obvious category of things to check (just sharing from my own mistakes) - One thing to have a look for when fitting you new shiny discs is that the face on the hub is clear of debris so the disc sits flush.
Very amusing Sorry if it's in the bleedin' obvious category of things to check (just sharing from my own mistakes) - One thing to have a look for when fitting you new shiny discs is that the face on the hub is clear of debris so the disc sits flush.
Especially on the fronts as it will induce wheel wobble if you have big brakes and haven't cleaned the hub faces properly
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