Fuel hose routing
Discussion
So I'm in the process of rebuilding after a body off, and I can't help but feel that the tvr routing of flexible fuel pipe and copper pipe is not optimal. It's a nightmare to join to the copper over the gearbox and the short lengths of copper introduce extra joins and the potential for leaks.
Bar the cost of buying more fuel pipe, has anyone actually just run flexible hose direct from the fuel filter to engine and one for the return. It strikes me bar the cost to buy more hose, this would be easier to swap out every couple of years for new hose, given I have a car lift. The joins would be limited and accessible.
Has anyone found a better routing or way to do this than the standard tvr way?
Bar the cost of buying more fuel pipe, has anyone actually just run flexible hose direct from the fuel filter to engine and one for the return. It strikes me bar the cost to buy more hose, this would be easier to swap out every couple of years for new hose, given I have a car lift. The joins would be limited and accessible.
Has anyone found a better routing or way to do this than the standard tvr way?
I wouldnt be happy with complete lengths of rubber hose, at least the copper lines have some degree of protection against damage.
Id prefer to see the copper lines run further up into the engine bay so they could be accessed easily from above, not an easy task as there isnt much to fix to and its difficult to get access to do so.
Probably possible if you have the engine top half stripped down or out completely.
The filter is also a nightmare to get at and id like to see that closer to the pump but again space is an issue.
Id prefer to see the copper lines run further up into the engine bay so they could be accessed easily from above, not an easy task as there isnt much to fix to and its difficult to get access to do so.
Probably possible if you have the engine top half stripped down or out completely.
The filter is also a nightmare to get at and id like to see that closer to the pump but again space is an issue.
I'd rather stay with metal pipes and extending them seems like a good idea to me. Engine movement is or should be minimal so fixed to the bulkhead and just leaving 6-8in for the flex pipes should be enough to protect against vibration. Some nice fixings holding the lines slightly proud of the bodywork would be good.
Maybe metal fuel pipes in that area might lead to higher fuel temps but it gets pretty high anyway.
Maybe metal fuel pipes in that area might lead to higher fuel temps but it gets pretty high anyway.
The copper/ rubber hose joints always leaked on my Griffith. So I replaced the whole lot with Cohline braided fuel hose ( as fitted OEM to Mercedes)
Not as robust as a steel/ copper fuel line and not so easy to identify a perished hose with the braid outer. But Since fitting two years ago no sign of a leak.
Refitting every 5 years or so not a big job.
You may find this of interest:
http://www.bertram-hill.com/replacing-the-fuel-lin...
Not as robust as a steel/ copper fuel line and not so easy to identify a perished hose with the braid outer. But Since fitting two years ago no sign of a leak.
Refitting every 5 years or so not a big job.
You may find this of interest:
http://www.bertram-hill.com/replacing-the-fuel-lin...
It would be nice to run copper further, but there are minimum radius for the hose bends, and going tighter would likely cause deterioration of the hose more quickly.
There appears to be plenty of room to route the fuel like at the top of the tunnel rather than along the chassis rail, i.e. Both following the return fuel to the tank.
There appears to be plenty of room to route the fuel like at the top of the tunnel rather than along the chassis rail, i.e. Both following the return fuel to the tank.
Classic Chim said:
I'd rather stay with metal pipes and extending them seems like a good idea to me. Engine movement is or should be minimal so fixed to the bulkhead and just leaving 6-8in for the flex pipes should be enough to protect against vibration. Some nice fixings holding the lines slightly proud of the bodywork would be good.
Maybe metal fuel pipes in that area might lead to higher fuel temps but it gets pretty high anyway.
This ^Maybe metal fuel pipes in that area might lead to higher fuel temps but it gets pretty high anyway.
Probably better to keep them visible for inspection etc but if it were me and i was doing a total stripdown id look at running them in in the best location that allowed a mostly continuous path. If that were the top chassis area then id probably do it in copper with correct stainless mounting clips.
The braided cohline hoses mentioned above sound a good idea to me, the less joins the better.
The pump and filter area are the biggest headache really but i cant see a way of altering this due to lack of room.
The braided cohline hoses mentioned above sound a good idea to me, the less joins the better.
The pump and filter area are the biggest headache really but i cant see a way of altering this due to lack of room.
Belle427 said:
Probably better to keep them visible for inspection etc but if it were me and i was doing a total stripdown id look at running them in in the best location that allowed a mostly continuous path. If that were the top chassis area then id probably do it in copper with correct stainless mounting clips.
The braided cohline hoses mentioned above sound a good idea to me, the less joins the better.
The pump and filter area are the biggest headache really but i cant see a way of altering this due to lack of room.
The main feed is hidden between the body and chassis on the passenger side in the std fitment, putting it in the tunnel actually makes it mor visible for inspection., The braided cohline hoses mentioned above sound a good idea to me, the less joins the better.
The pump and filter area are the biggest headache really but i cant see a way of altering this due to lack of room.
Loubaruch said:
The copper/ rubber hose joints always leaked on my Griffith. So I replaced the whole lot with Cohline braided fuel hose ( as fitted OEM to Mercedes)
Not as robust as a steel/ copper fuel line and not so easy to identify a perished hose with the braid outer. But Since fitting two years ago no sign of a leak.
Refitting every 5 years or so not a big job.
You may find this of interest:
K
http://www.bertram-hill.com/replacing-the-fuel-lin...
I had a look at this hose, but it's only rated to 50degrees c. Past that internet reports have seen cracking and failure so I'm not convinced that works. I'm using gates hose for the flexible rated to 125 degrees.Not as robust as a steel/ copper fuel line and not so easy to identify a perished hose with the braid outer. But Since fitting two years ago no sign of a leak.
Refitting every 5 years or so not a big job.
You may find this of interest:
K
http://www.bertram-hill.com/replacing-the-fuel-lin...
SMB said:
The main feed is hidden between the body and chassis on the passenger side in the std fitment, putting it in the tunnel actually makes it mor visible for inspection.,
Yes it is, i thought you meant run the lines at the top of the transmission tunnel area.I replaced my return line a while ago but moved it to the outside of the chassis rail,as in its original location it was squashed underneath the body!
I meant inside the tunnel at the top. Tied in, would be easy enough to cut the ties off and run fresh every 2-3 years once the exhaust was dropped.
Interestingly I was considering the way this v8s is done in the last pic of this thread. I can't see it being any more liable to damage there, and it would be easy to pull it through to the engine bay for replacement.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Interestingly I was considering the way this v8s is done in the last pic of this thread. I can't see it being any more liable to damage there, and it would be easy to pull it through to the engine bay for replacement.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
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