No clutch

[caduceus]

Hello all.

After an absence from working on the car and frequenting here, I'm back at it. Still no clutch though. I HAD put the slave on upside down (which meant bleeding it was never going to be 100%) but I've put that right. There was air in the system but I've bled that out. But still no gear will engage.

Strangely, when the car is not running, it will go into all the gears. But as soon as I start her up and she's running, nothing. Will not go into any gear.

Any suggestions chaps? Starting to wish I'd never taken this amount of work on now.... There is a mountain of bodywork to do

Cheers
Cad

[Steve_D]

I would guess you still have air in the system.
Try getting someone (or a piece of wood) to hold the clutch down then with it is still held in that position crack the bleed nipple.

Steve

[Pupp]

Have you changed anythibg that might alter the pivot fork geometery?

Sounds like a release issue...

[caduceus]

Steve_D said:

I would guess you still have air in the system.
Try getting someone (or a piece of wood) to hold the clutch down then with it is still held in that position crack the bleed nipple.

Steve

Already done that. Still nothing.

[caduceus]

Pupp said:

Have you changed anythibg that might alter the pivot fork geometery?

Sounds like a release issue...

The gearbox and clutch assembly has been out, but as far as I can tell, I've put it back the way it came out.

[N7GTX]

With someone pressing the clutch pedal down, look at the slave and see if it is travelling its full length. If it is not then either there is air in the system or the master cylinder is not giving the required pressure. Sometimes the seals in master cylinders lose their effectiveness when the pressure has been released for some time (as in your rebuild). Try pumping the pedal very quickly 5 or 6 times and see if there is any pedal resistance. You may just get a little at the bottom of the pedal but it will rapidly diminish so you would need to pump 5 times again and so on. Again this could be either air in the system or the master cylinder seals are weak.

If it is mechanical, then either the clutch plate is the wrong way round - the flatter side goes towards the flywheel with the springs on the gearbox side - or the clutch release arm is incorrectly located or bent/damaged. You would see this via the inspection hole on the bottom of the housing.

One other possible is the clutch plate is stuck to the flywheel often called a frozen clutch. Jack up the rear end - follow all safety precautions - axle stands, chocks etc then sit in the car. Press the clutch pedal right down and keep it down. Start the engine with 4th gear selected. The rear wheels will start spinning and with the revs around 1200-1500 gently press the brake pedal on and off with your right foot..This should free it off.

[caduceus]

N7GTX said:

With someone pressing the clutch pedal down, look at the slave and see if it is travelling its full length. If it is not then either there is air in the system or the master cylinder is not giving the required pressure. Sometimes the seals in master cylinders lose their effectiveness when the pressure has been released for some time (as in your rebuild). Try pumping the pedal very quickly 5 or 6 times and see if there is any pedal resistance. You may just get a little at the bottom of the pedal but it will rapidly diminish so you would need to pump 5 times again and so on. Again this could be either air in the system or the master cylinder seals are weak.

If it is mechanical, then either the clutch plate is the wrong way round - the flatter side goes towards the flywheel with the springs on the gearbox side - or the clutch release arm is incorrectly located or bent/damaged. You would see this via the inspection hole on the bottom of the housing.

One other possible is the clutch plate is stuck to the flywheel often called a frozen clutch. Jack up the rear end - follow all safety precautions - axle stands, chocks etc then sit in the car. Press the clutch pedal right down and keep it down. Start the engine with 4th gear selected. The rear wheels will start spinning and with the revs around 1200-1500 gently press the brake pedal on and off with your right foot..This should free it off.

The master cylinder is brand new. As is the copper/cupro pipe from it to the bulkhead block.

Will try the pedal pump during the week, also the frozen clutch remedy. Thanks for the info Iain. I'll take some pics through the inspection hole during the week. Maybe something will stand out that I've missed.

[SantaPod]

take a look at the slave cylinder and make sure you push the piston back, as you're bleeding, a small amount of air can get trapped there.. be careful not to have the selector fork drop out though... yes been there also.....

[sunbeam alpine]

Sorry, don't have any TVR knowledge, but here's something I learned last week.

We had a Triumph Vitesse in for a new slave cylinder. Fitting was one of the easiest I've ever had to do - literally a 5 minute job - but the system wouldn't bleed. We use a pressure bleeder - a container under pressure, filled with brake fluid with a cap that replaces the normal cap on the master cylinder. I've never known it not to work.

Phoned a mate who suggested "reverse" bleeding - pumping fluid up through the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder - and it worked first time.

Maybe worth a try?

[latham91]

^^^^^^
Not tried this myself but have heard you can use a pump-type oil can with some rubber tube on it (obviously replace the oil with clutch fluid!). Makes sense since you're pushing air in the direction it wants to go.

[Boosted LS1]

Some helpful comments above.

I may be able to add one more but only if you have an lt77 box. It's been known for the pivot pin to punch it's way through the fork. I don't know if that sort of thing could happen with your arrangement. You probably have a T5.

[LongBaz]

Is it a new slave cylinder?
I bought a new one, but the spring inside was not the same and could not engage gears. Took the stronger spring out of the old one and it worked a treat.

[caduceus]

Some great tips and advice chaps. Muchas gracias!
It's a T5 box.

The slave isn't new. Just bought new seals for it and installed them. Yes, I guess there is a possibility I put them in the wrong way. But have no reference as to how they should go in now....

[caduceus]

N7GTX said:

One other possible is the clutch plate is stuck to the flywheel often called a frozen clutch. Jack up the rear end - follow all safety precautions - axle stands, chocks etc then sit in the car. Press the clutch pedal right down and keep it down. Start the engine with 4th gear selected. The rear wheels will start spinning and with the revs around 1200-1500 gently press the brake pedal on and off with your right foot..This should free it off.

Worked a treat. Thanks Iain

[N7GTX]

Well done Cad A cheap fix and with all your rebuild woes, good to get a result. Just need some pics when the car is done and back on the road

[caduceus]

Indeed Iain. But it's a way off yet. [b]Lots[b] of bodywork to do, front lights replacing (mk3), rear lights need rewiring from Fiesta to later pod type, full respray, full geo setup & MOT.
Doubt it'll be ready for the summer