Body off chassis resto or new chassis - discuss
Body off chassis resto or new chassis - discuss
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Discussion

Pupp

Original Poster:

12,854 posts

294 months

Thursday 28th September 2017
quotequote all
After 20 years and about 145k (mostly) fun all-weather miles, living outside, has reached the point where, with outriggers and top rails (under manifolds) shot, it's time for some serious TLC (as opposed to patching up). '97 white powder coating car if anyone is wondering

Sadly, although I'd love to do it myself, I do not have handy access to the necessary inside space for long enough to make it viable so will be using one of the usual suspects. Form an orderly queue to quote guys! smile

Having made that decision, am weighing up the pros/cons of either having the original re-tubed and coated as necessary (a la RT/Southways/Garner et al), or doing a straight replacement. Final costs seem broadly similar.

Love the idea of the Sportmotive evolution option but I want to keep it Rover powered so suspect that's out.

Frankly, I'm wanting the result to last as least as long as the original (ok, I've been chasing corrosion and scraping/painting for at least 12 years), so the complete replacement with new appeals but confidence is not high after seeing how long replacement wishbones (say) last - not long in my experience.

Anyone grappled with this?


mike-v2tmf

858 posts

101 months

Thursday 28th September 2017
quotequote all
Has anyone considered galvanizing their chassis ?

TwinKam

3,460 posts

117 months

Thursday 28th September 2017
quotequote all
mike-v2tmf said:
Has anyone considered galvanizing their chassis ?
It has been done but involves drilling a hole in every tube and then plugging same after.
More common is 'hot zinc coating' (imagine a mig torch with zinc wire and a compressed air supply, the zinc is vaporised and blown onto the steel).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_spraying

TJC46

2,196 posts

228 months

Thursday 28th September 2017
quotequote all
Pupp said:
After 20 years and about 145k (mostly) fun all-weather miles, living outside, has reached the point where, with outriggers and top rails (under manifolds) shot, it's time for some serious TLC (as opposed to patching up). '97 white powder coating car if anyone is wondering

Sadly, although I'd love to do it myself, I do not have handy access to the necessary inside space for long enough to make it viable so will be using one of the usual suspects. Form an orderly queue to quote guys! smile

Having made that decision, am weighing up the pros/cons of either having the original re-tubed and coated as necessary (a la RT/Southways/Garner et al), or doing a straight replacement. Final costs seem broadly similar.

Love the idea of the Sportmotive evolution option but I want to keep it Rover powered so suspect that's out.

Frankly, I'm wanting the result to last as least as long as the original (ok, I've been chasing corrosion and scraping/painting for at least 12 years), so the complete replacement with new appeals but confidence is not high after seeing how long replacement wishbones (say) last - not long in my experience.

Anyone grappled with this?

I would use one of the usual suspects for a complete body off rebuild, but let them decide after strip down and blast, whether a new

chassis is needed or repair to your original.

They have to be really bad to warrant a complete new chassis
.
Everyone has their own opinion, but I am against powder coating on a chassis, so this would put me off a new one straight away.

Blast, repair and plenty of coats of 2 pack epoxy paint is the best.

I did mine in 2010 and it still looks like new. And I am 100% confident there is no rust anywhere.

Every winter I get under and inspect and a few touch ups is all that's required, and this is only to the top gloss coat.

None of that horrible and useless waxoyl anywhere, just a shiny bright red chassis.

Engineer1949

1,423 posts

166 months

Thursday 28th September 2017
quotequote all
you might want to have a look at my thread just above yours to give you an idea what can be done this yellow car had been stood in a very damp enviroment for a number of years but shes on her way back.


john

ChimpOnGas

9,637 posts

201 months

Thursday 28th September 2017
quotequote all
Pupp said:
After 20 years and about 145k (mostly) fun all-weather miles, living outside, has reached the point where, with outriggers and top rails (under manifolds) shot, it's time for some serious TLC (as opposed to patching up). '97 white powder coating car if anyone is wondering
She's done well Gary, get it down to Southways, that's where 'Ol Gasbag' and her silver/grey chassis will be going when the time comes. It'll just need a few tubes and maybe a small patch repair or two in the main square section rails at worse, so a replacement chassis seems excessive expense to me.

I'd avoid powdercoat altogether, looking at their Facebook page Southways have seen the light and now uses a 2k wet pain system, better still with 2k expoxymastic over the top in the vulnerable out rigger areas.

If your TVR quality white powdercoated chassis has given you 20 years and 140,000 miles before demanding attention, the Southways double 2k treatment over their hot zinc spray galv process has to deliver 40 years of protection at least, at which point you've got to ask yourself who you're doing the chassis restoration for... because in 40 years I for one will either be in a box six foot under, or not really in any kind of shape to be driving a TVR.

If well maintained these cars are way more durable than people give them credit for, compare with a chase the tin worm monocoque the modular nature of a separate body and chassis design will always make for an infinitely less complex restoration, it also facilitates a more thorough and long lasting job.

Dave.


Edited by ChimpOnGas on Thursday 28th September 20:13

PhilH42

692 posts

124 months

Thursday 28th September 2017
quotequote all
I had the same dilemma with my Chim and I would have probably lifted if I'd have kept her...in for a penny and all that. I looked at a new chassis from central tvr which looks a decent price but I think its just key and powder coat. The hot dip galvanising has got to be worth doing for longevity, but the prep needs to be considered if powder over.

I spoke to a guy at a car show with a griff and he had his zinc and powder coated in silver some years back and it still looked totally solid and not at all flaky.

I hate waxoil just ends up being a dirty sticky mess and you can't see the corrosion starting, as said previously I'd rather check and treat/paint regularly as part of the service regime.

Anyway good luck with your project.

pb450

1,305 posts

182 months

Friday 29th September 2017
quotequote all
As said before, metallisation (google it) and polyurethane. Had mine done in 2013. Still look like new - apart from the road muck.
That's all on the original chassis, with new front outrigger corners. (The rears were fine after shot blasting and inspection.)

Simon Elise

29 posts

101 months

Friday 29th September 2017
quotequote all
mike-v2tmf said:
Has anyone considered galvanizing their chassis ?
as said, you have to drill every tube etc etc. fine when a chassis is designed for this day 1, not so great with the TVR design.

Other downside, picked up a Cerbra Chassis that had been galvied, it must have been some 15-20Kg's heavier, in ~80Kg's of tube, that's not insignificant.

Powder Coating is a big subject, as with most stuff, it can be done cheaply or properly, and there are many different types of powdercoat, then you get to surface prep before applying it etc etc. if done right, you should be able to literally hammer it and it will not come off.

Epoxy based paints are also very impressive, but once again, surface prep is the key.

Back to what to do with old chassis, one thing to consider is that the tubes are pretty thin walled (mostly 16 gauge) and was hardly top spec stuff when new, so it does not take much rust to compromise the tubes, combine this with hard enough blasting to clean the rust off and you can easily get to a pretty weakened tube.