Nitron shock absorbers and spring rates
Discussion
I have now been running Nitrons for some years , they came with 325 and 250 springs which were a nice ride but under hard ecceleration and cornering they were to soft .
I then fitted the fronts on the rear and purchased 375 lb for the fronts .
The front suspension is harsh and seems to move up and down to quickly , is this due to 375 Lb springs or the shocks need matching up to the spring rates ?
I dont want to have the shocks upgraded by Nitron to experience the same problem .
Advice please.
I then fitted the fronts on the rear and purchased 375 lb for the fronts .
The front suspension is harsh and seems to move up and down to quickly , is this due to 375 Lb springs or the shocks need matching up to the spring rates ?
I dont want to have the shocks upgraded by Nitron to experience the same problem .
Advice please.
I would take it to Mat Smith, and get his advice and expertise on the job. Or Jools.
It all depends on how they were originally valved etc - different dampers need different springs.
I would put the rears back where they belong, and uprate the springs by about 50 lbs all round.
If you feel like trying some random springs and don't mind wielding your own spanners I have three pairs in the shed, but not a clue what poundage they are. But springs are not expensive anyway.
Have you actually adjusted the adjusters to make them a tad stiffer?
It all depends on how they were originally valved etc - different dampers need different springs.
I would put the rears back where they belong, and uprate the springs by about 50 lbs all round.
If you feel like trying some random springs and don't mind wielding your own spanners I have three pairs in the shed, but not a clue what poundage they are. But springs are not expensive anyway.
Have you actually adjusted the adjusters to make them a tad stiffer?
Wot e says above.
Speak to Nitron and tell them what you have. Ask them if you can upgrade the springs to let's say, 375 front and 325 rear.
This is a good compromise inbetween original too soft and a much firmer track biased weight spring.
Ask Nitronif you can fit these upgraded springs direct to the dampers or would the dampers need slightly revalving to accommodate the stiffer springs.
Speak to Nitron and tell them what you have. Ask them if you can upgrade the springs to let's say, 375 front and 325 rear.
This is a good compromise inbetween original too soft and a much firmer track biased weight spring.
Ask Nitronif you can fit these upgraded springs direct to the dampers or would the dampers need slightly revalving to accommodate the stiffer springs.
I went through this dilemma when i supercharged my car, the original spring and valve rates were perfect when NA but torque squat and increased corner entry speeds meant having to up the springs.
It does not work very well just putting bigger springs on, unless you have the shox re-valved to suit the springs as the damping starts to act unpredictably the more you increase the spring poundage. (i do run 600f/400R on my nitrons now, but even when increasing the original setup by 100lbs it had a noticeable affect on the damping action).
It does not work very well just putting bigger springs on, unless you have the shox re-valved to suit the springs as the damping starts to act unpredictably the more you increase the spring poundage. (i do run 600f/400R on my nitrons now, but even when increasing the original setup by 100lbs it had a noticeable affect on the damping action).
Daz, don't forget that as well as the valving and the spring rates, you do also have the adjuster on each damper, which will alter the hardness of the ride from Andrex to Granite. I have my Racing Reds (budget Nitrons) as hard as possible at the front for the track, and pretty soft all round for the road.
Have you actually tried adjusting the adjusters to see if you can improve the ride? It's free...........
Clockwise to harden, anti-clock to soften (in case you have forgotten or never adjusted them)
Have you actually tried adjusting the adjusters to see if you can improve the ride? It's free...........
Clockwise to harden, anti-clock to soften (in case you have forgotten or never adjusted them)
SILICONEKID 345HP 12.03 said:
phazed said:
Send them back to Nitron, ask for a re-valve and for them to supply a set of 390/325 springs.
These will be good for fast road and stop the bottoming out on faster bumpy roads.
I cant see how 10lb difference on the front will do anything. These will be good for fast road and stop the bottoming out on faster bumpy roads.
Cant see why not , Daz I run 450 fr and 400 rr and Gaz mono's have no complaints I was skeptical but was wrong I was previously using new old stock Bilsteins (not the latest version) with stock springs just not for me 
far more composure and feedback now
I was previously using new old stock Bilsteins (not the latest version) with stock springs just not for me far more composure and feedback now Edited by Sardonicus on Monday 16th October 21:50
Hi Daz, i have Gaz monos with 400 fronts and 325 rears and the rears are too soft in my opinion. I have firmed the adjusters up and that has helped but driving back to back with my Boxster, its a bit bouncy.
On my last car I wasn’t happy with the rear springs and Derek at abs shocks changed for very firm springs without changing the valves and it was good. Buy the springs you want and try them, if your not happy have them re valved as well?
On my last car I wasn’t happy with the rear springs and Derek at abs shocks changed for very firm springs without changing the valves and it was good. Buy the springs you want and try them, if your not happy have them re valved as well?
Hello. Not quite the same as you but I think the experience will be relevant. I have a Griffith 500 that came to me with Nitrons already fitted.
Originally running 325lbs/" front & 250 rear the control of the front end of the car over bumps & under braking was awful & upon investigation I could see a trace of oil leaking from the dampers (they were about 5 years / 9000 miles old). The adjustment on one side was also siezed up. Once off the car it was clear that whilst the looked OK externally, the near side damper was doing very little damping the the off side was not consistent so I sent all 4 off to Nitron & they serviced them with new seals & a full rebuild. Once refitted things were a lot better. After further experimentation I've ended up with 400lbs on the front & 325 on the rear with 11 clicks from soft at the front & 9 at the rear. Getting the ride heights set was a bit of a game but at 145mm front & 155mm rear (measured from the chassis) I'm pretty happy with what I have but the condition of the dampers was the biggest issue & Nitron's £95 per damper rebuild netted the biggest gain.
Cheers
Ian
Originally running 325lbs/" front & 250 rear the control of the front end of the car over bumps & under braking was awful & upon investigation I could see a trace of oil leaking from the dampers (they were about 5 years / 9000 miles old). The adjustment on one side was also siezed up. Once off the car it was clear that whilst the looked OK externally, the near side damper was doing very little damping the the off side was not consistent so I sent all 4 off to Nitron & they serviced them with new seals & a full rebuild. Once refitted things were a lot better. After further experimentation I've ended up with 400lbs on the front & 325 on the rear with 11 clicks from soft at the front & 9 at the rear. Getting the ride heights set was a bit of a game but at 145mm front & 155mm rear (measured from the chassis) I'm pretty happy with what I have but the condition of the dampers was the biggest issue & Nitron's £95 per damper rebuild netted the biggest gain.
Cheers
Ian
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