Chimaera body lift
Discussion
My Grandson asked me last weekend why I kept a Car covered up on the drive.
I told him it was a Tvr Chimaera and I was going to do it up one Day, after thinking
about it I looked at the tax disc and realised it had been sitting unused since 2011.
So long story short I have bit the Bullet and decided to go for a full body lift and Chassis
rebuild.
We moved house last year and now have a double garage which is a great incentive. Car
has always been outside and open to the hot and sunny Scottish weather.
So after reading a few threads on rebuilds I decided to make a start this morning.
First problem the clutch pedal is stuck solid so enlisted my neighbour to help push it
into the garage.
First day in and have got along really well, removed Bonnet, boot lid, seats, interior trim,
Radiator and fueltank
all of the bolts holding the body to chassis are all out,
a few snapped and had to cut out the drivers one holding seat belt to chassis.
The manifolds were tricky to remove, I do hate lying on the ground removing bolts a quarter
turn at a time while bits of rust fall on your face also took the starter off to make it easier
to get to a couple of the manifold bolts.
Will tackle the engine wiring tomorrow.
Will update as I progress
I told him it was a Tvr Chimaera and I was going to do it up one Day, after thinking
about it I looked at the tax disc and realised it had been sitting unused since 2011.
So long story short I have bit the Bullet and decided to go for a full body lift and Chassis
rebuild.
We moved house last year and now have a double garage which is a great incentive. Car
has always been outside and open to the hot and sunny Scottish weather.
So after reading a few threads on rebuilds I decided to make a start this morning.
First problem the clutch pedal is stuck solid so enlisted my neighbour to help push it
into the garage.
First day in and have got along really well, removed Bonnet, boot lid, seats, interior trim,
Radiator and fueltank
all of the bolts holding the body to chassis are all out,
a few snapped and had to cut out the drivers one holding seat belt to chassis.
The manifolds were tricky to remove, I do hate lying on the ground removing bolts a quarter
turn at a time while bits of rust fall on your face also took the starter off to make it easier
to get to a couple of the manifold bolts.
Will tackle the engine wiring tomorrow.
Will update as I progress
Great stuff.
Chassis repairs will be needed by all some day so these re build threads are always welcome,,, nothing much else to do on cold dark winter nights anyway.
I’ve met up with a welder friend recently after years not seeing him and he’s still fixing and welding things which has kinda brought my attention to my chassis more as I’d like to do this job myself
He’s been adapting motor bike frames for decades so I’ve now got any welding repairs covered.
I learnt a huge amount a few years back as in replacing most if not all the front end chassis bushes and wishbones as well as painting my front half of the chassis.
Focusing on doing what you can’t do when the bodies back on would be my way if I’m keeping costs down.
Wheel bearings or slightly older wishbones etc can all be replaced or renewed at a later date so not vital when doing a body off.
Obviously that’s not the way to have lovely rolling chassis pics so I’d factor in replacing stuff that works ok but you might as well do it all now and enjoy a newcar by the end of it.
Not cheap though and there’s sometimes a good argument for leaving things that work well alone as some replacement stuff is rubbish as I found with a New clutch that’s only just two years old and destroyed itself.
Have fun
ETA my newest clutch which is glorious to use and very light after I also had the pivot fork arm replaced and greased up is great so a silver lining to the story
Chassis repairs will be needed by all some day so these re build threads are always welcome,,, nothing much else to do on cold dark winter nights anyway.
I’ve met up with a welder friend recently after years not seeing him and he’s still fixing and welding things which has kinda brought my attention to my chassis more as I’d like to do this job myself
He’s been adapting motor bike frames for decades so I’ve now got any welding repairs covered.
I learnt a huge amount a few years back as in replacing most if not all the front end chassis bushes and wishbones as well as painting my front half of the chassis.
Focusing on doing what you can’t do when the bodies back on would be my way if I’m keeping costs down.
Wheel bearings or slightly older wishbones etc can all be replaced or renewed at a later date so not vital when doing a body off.
Obviously that’s not the way to have lovely rolling chassis pics so I’d factor in replacing stuff that works ok but you might as well do it all now and enjoy a newcar by the end of it.
Not cheap though and there’s sometimes a good argument for leaving things that work well alone as some replacement stuff is rubbish as I found with a New clutch that’s only just two years old and destroyed itself.
Have fun
ETA my newest clutch which is glorious to use and very light after I also had the pivot fork arm replaced and greased up is great so a silver lining to the story
Edited by Classic Chim on Saturday 28th October 10:36
Depending on what needs repairing a few things to consider, in no particular order;
a, use roll cage quality tubing for the outriggers etc... It's thicker guage and seamless construction make them more durable.
b, make reinforcement plates to weld over the tubing at the jacking points. I'm going to get the next size tube, cut in half and weld over or sleeve over a full tube piece.
c, add some cross pieces to bolt the seats to. Takes the strain off the grp floor panel. I've had three floor panels split around seat mounts.
d, add some threaded holes to allow for a small bit of oil, waxoil or rust converter to be added into the chassis to deal with any trapped moisture or internal rust.
e, add a proper towing (removeable) eye front and rear so that it can be towed without wrecking the body.
These are what I'm going to add. No doubt some will reply saying how they are all pointless or not worth it. They solve / prevent issues I have with my cars. Others are free to consider and make their own minds up.
Good luck with the project.
a, use roll cage quality tubing for the outriggers etc... It's thicker guage and seamless construction make them more durable.
b, make reinforcement plates to weld over the tubing at the jacking points. I'm going to get the next size tube, cut in half and weld over or sleeve over a full tube piece.
c, add some cross pieces to bolt the seats to. Takes the strain off the grp floor panel. I've had three floor panels split around seat mounts.
d, add some threaded holes to allow for a small bit of oil, waxoil or rust converter to be added into the chassis to deal with any trapped moisture or internal rust.
e, add a proper towing (removeable) eye front and rear so that it can be towed without wrecking the body.
These are what I'm going to add. No doubt some will reply saying how they are all pointless or not worth it. They solve / prevent issues I have with my cars. Others are free to consider and make their own minds up.
Good luck with the project.
mk1fan said:
Depending on what needs repairing a few things to consider, in no particular order;
a, use roll cage quality tubing for the outriggers etc... It's thicker guage and seamless construction make them more durable.
b, make reinforcement plates to weld over the tubing at the jacking points. I'm going to get the next size tube, cut in half and weld over or sleeve over a full tube piece.
c, add some cross pieces to bolt the seats to. Takes the strain off the grp floor panel. I've had three floor panels split around seat mounts.
d, add some threaded holes to allow for a small bit of oil, waxoil or rust converter to be added into the chassis to deal with any trapped moisture or internal rust.
e, add a proper towing (removeable) eye front and rear so that it can be towed without wrecking the body.
These are what I'm going to add. No doubt some will reply saying how they are all pointless or not worth it. They solve / prevent issues I have with my cars. Others are free to consider and make their own minds up.
Good luck with the project.
Point a and b a, use roll cage quality tubing for the outriggers etc... It's thicker guage and seamless construction make them more durable.
b, make reinforcement plates to weld over the tubing at the jacking points. I'm going to get the next size tube, cut in half and weld over or sleeve over a full tube piece.
c, add some cross pieces to bolt the seats to. Takes the strain off the grp floor panel. I've had three floor panels split around seat mounts.
d, add some threaded holes to allow for a small bit of oil, waxoil or rust converter to be added into the chassis to deal with any trapped moisture or internal rust.
e, add a proper towing (removeable) eye front and rear so that it can be towed without wrecking the body.
These are what I'm going to add. No doubt some will reply saying how they are all pointless or not worth it. They solve / prevent issues I have with my cars. Others are free to consider and make their own minds up.
Good luck with the project.
Like it, not sure I’d get my body over the bigger size as it’s very tight, ( how much bigger is Roll cage tubing?
Point c very good idea as mines splitting at one seat bolt point.
Point e err as I can’t understand why you’d tow one anyway but then you like race tracks
good idea Got the exhaust off also removed the front and rear antiroll bars, disconected all the wiring from engine
and brake and clutch pipes disconnected.
Also cut hole in garage ceiling so I could set up a pulley for body lift
Have used scaffold pipes front and rear and hope to lift body off
and brake and clutch pipes disconnected.
Also cut hole in garage ceiling so I could set up a pulley for body lift
Have used scaffold pipes front and rear and hope to lift body off
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