RoverGauge - overfueling problem
RoverGauge - overfueling problem
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Discussion

Green King

Original Poster:

22 posts

259 months

Sunday 29th April 2018
quotequote all
Hi

I have recently encountered a problem with my 4.0 Chim over-fueling. I took it out for a long run recently and it ran fine. However once I got home and tried to start it to put it away in the garage it instantly flooded - lots of white smoke out the exhausts and strong smell of fuel. the engine was still hot so I can only assume that for some reason the ECU has decided to over-fuel the engine. I managed to get it in the garage but it ran really badly (and then would not start at all).

I got it out the following weekend and it started fine from cold, but once up to temperature would not restart. Whilst it was ticking over I connected it to a recently purchased RoverGauge to see if that would give me any indication of what was going on. Everything seemed ok except the Airflow reading was sitting a 4% even when the car was fully up to temperature. Is it possible the air flow meter has failed?

I am running a standard unmodified 1993 4.0 pre-serp.

Any suggestion would be gratefully received.

blaze_away

1,633 posts

235 months

Sunday 29th April 2018
quotequote all
Hi Richard

I have been through this recently and now resolved.
I am near Daventry and willing to help check stuff over with you if you wish. We can methodically test a swap key bits to see if we can narrow it down.
Temp sensors lambdas and AFM are the places to start.

Chimp871

837 posts

139 months

Sunday 29th April 2018
quotequote all
I had the same problem recently and a change of AFM appears to have fixed it. Use the kind offer above or buy a used one of fleabay - I got a used Jag one part DBC10852 same as err5198

blitzracing

6,418 posts

242 months

Sunday 29th April 2018
quotequote all
The Airflow reading at idle should be about 32 to 35% on the direct setting at idle, and this will jump up when you rev the car. Failed AFM tend to have a very long stabilising period of a few seconds and the overall voltage will be to high, so the car over fuels, although it may not be far enough out to trip a fault code.

Manual testing is here about 1/3 of the way down the page.

http://www.g33.co.uk/pages/technical-fuel-injectio...

Green King

Original Poster:

22 posts

259 months

Sunday 29th April 2018
quotequote all
Hi all

Thanks for the info. It sounds like the AFM may be the problem.

Blaze_away, thanks for the offer to come over and take a look, I really appreciate that. Let me know when it would be convenient for you as i could use the help. How is it best to get in touch?




blaze_away

1,633 posts

235 months

Sunday 29th April 2018
quotequote all
Green King said:
Hi all

Thanks for the info. It sounds like the AFM may be the problem.

Blaze_away, thanks for the offer to come over and take a look, I really appreciate that. Let me know when it would be convenient for you as i could use the help. How is it best to get in touch?
I will send you pm

blaze_away

1,633 posts

235 months

Monday 30th April 2018
quotequote all
PMs exchanged. Will update thread when we've haf a look at it.

Green King

Original Poster:

22 posts

259 months

Friday 4th May 2018
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Hi all

After a very helpful discussion with blaze_away I tested the AFM. It has a good 12v supply, however when I tested the signal and turned on the ignition the multimeter spiked at just over 1 volt and took about 5 seconds to settle back at 0.4.

I assume that this means the AFM is shot. I did test it again and got the same result.

Is my thinking correct? Is it now time for a new AFM?

Thanks.

Zeb74

462 posts

151 months

Friday 4th May 2018
quotequote all
Hi,
Recently I have encountered something similar, the car was smelling and smoking. With RoverGauge I saw also the long term lambda trim at 100%. I've done the same test as you with a multi-meter plugged on AFM connector and all symptoms were here.
I have changed the AFM and it's like night and day.
Mine is a 96 model with 60,000 miles.

Green King

Original Poster:

22 posts

259 months

Friday 4th May 2018
quotequote all
Thanks for that, it sounds like we have the same issue. Where did you get your new AFM? I have tried the usual places but they are either out of stock or exchange reconditioned (which I am not sure about).

QBee

22,067 posts

166 months

Friday 4th May 2018
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Have you tried Rimmers? I think it’s a Landy part from memory.

Zeb74

462 posts

151 months

Friday 4th May 2018
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Mine is coming from TVR Parts, they have some available from time to time.

Chimp871

837 posts

139 months

Saturday 5th May 2018
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Refurb afm with a warranty should be fine, not cheap though. It is a landy part and was used in other cars besides LR/Tvr but with different part numbers and without trim screw which blitz says you won't need if you have cats.

My used jag afm (same lucas 5am) is going good 1 month in.

Green King

Original Poster:

22 posts

259 months

Saturday 5th May 2018
quotequote all
Thanks all, I have tried TVR Carparts but currently out of stock. Will try Rimmers or possibly go with refurb (although it is nearly £100 more than a new one from TVR!).

Cheers.

blaze_away

1,633 posts

235 months

Sunday 6th May 2018
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I was offered a clone version 5am recently that came off a griff converting to Megasquirt. Said to be a "good un" that had been running fine for 4 years. It might still be available as by that time I had already got one. Might do you until you can source another one.
I will pm you their details

blitzracing

6,418 posts

242 months

Monday 7th May 2018
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Here you go guys- sensible money- id rather have a rebuild by ATP than any clone!

https://www.atpelectronics.co.uk/p/land-rover-rang...

Green King

Original Poster:

22 posts

259 months

Sunday 20th May 2018
quotequote all
All sorted. I was offered a secondhand original AFM from a fellow Pistonheader at little money. Dropped it in and all is good again.

Thanks everyone for your help and advice.