Replacement diff
Discussion
I assume you'll have the GKN diff rather than the later BTR - my 96 has the GKN so unless yours has been replaced before...!
Can't really comment on availability, might be worth looking into a rebuild rather than replacement? Likely to be a fair bit cheaper, although I'll let others with more knowledge on the matter comment!
The main question is, are you going to let me ruin the existing or the new one when I drive it?
Can't really comment on availability, might be worth looking into a rebuild rather than replacement? Likely to be a fair bit cheaper, although I'll let others with more knowledge on the matter comment!
The main question is, are you going to let me ruin the existing or the new one when I drive it?
GR_TVR said:
I assume you'll have the GKN diff rather than the later BTR - my 96 has the GKN so unless yours has been replaced before...!
Can't really comment on availability, might be worth looking into a rebuild rather than replacement? Likely to be a fair bit cheaper, although I'll let others with more knowledge on the matter comment!
The main question is, are you going to let me ruin the existing or the new one when I drive it?
Can't recall seeing anything stamped on it but my observational skills are pretty awful! Rebuild is probably a good idea, any idea if 500s used the same diff Gareth? Planning ahead for more power so hopefully it's rated for extra beef Can't really comment on availability, might be worth looking into a rebuild rather than replacement? Likely to be a fair bit cheaper, although I'll let others with more knowledge on the matter comment!
The main question is, are you going to let me ruin the existing or the new one when I drive it?
You're definitely getting the old diff, old tyres, I'm looking for a set of steel wheels to put on too.. Anything of any value is getting taken off before I let you loose
CanoeSniffer said:
Engineer1949 said:
it will be the gkn there are less and less around there is one on the flee at the moment plus you could go btr but mods are required.
john
Thank you for the response John. Any idea on the sturdiness of the GKN and if it will withstand more power?john
Al (ClassicChim) has recently done his diff so he should be able to help.
Al?Good to hear that it’s a strong old thing, I’ll get a quote on a rebuild thank you! If I end up with anything close to 355hp/481lbft once I’ve had my wicked way then I’ll be delighted! Don’t know about the drag strips (may feel differently if I get hold of a few more horses), I do fairly regular track days but I assume that’s not quite so hard on the transmission.
I may be wrong about it being the diff Anthony, I’m on a carb so not exactly sophisticated fuelling- but shunting is often accompanied with a mechanical clunk from the rear of the car so I drew the conclusion that it was the diff. If I get it changed/refurbed and the car still shunts.. meh. WOT is what I’m more interested in
Thanks all for your help
I may be wrong about it being the diff Anthony, I’m on a carb so not exactly sophisticated fuelling- but shunting is often accompanied with a mechanical clunk from the rear of the car so I drew the conclusion that it was the diff. If I get it changed/refurbed and the car still shunts.. meh. WOT is what I’m more interested in
Thanks all for your help
Edited by CanoeSniffer on Monday 4th June 22:30
I had a brand new BTR diff fitted by Central TVR recently, with new bushes, speed sender and got a 2 year warranty. It was about £1800 all in and the work was completed in a day or two.
Worth every penny in my opinion.
I even sold the GKN diff that came out of the car as spares or repairs.
Worth every penny in my opinion.
I even sold the GKN diff that came out of the car as spares or repairs.
^^^^^ what he says
I’ve spent a lot of money having engines/clutches/ ign- fuelling system replaced, even 4 new drive shaft CV’s
Still had a slight sniff of shunt but now only 1400 revs and barely noticeable but still needed to smooth things out with the clutch!
Replaced the diff as it was noisy and by eck, no shunt at all.
Gesrbox lever used to get very warm, now stays cold!!! Increadable difference. Best bag of sand I’ve spent on the car. £1800 for a new one with bushes fitted that’s not bad as it’s a big old job
My party trick is to role along below 800 revs in second and just pull away without any clutch operation.
My left ft used to get very hot and sore now I only use it to change gear
Worth every penny and within minutes of driving mine I was convinced. Awesome.
I’ve spent a lot of money having engines/clutches/ ign- fuelling system replaced, even 4 new drive shaft CV’s
Still had a slight sniff of shunt but now only 1400 revs and barely noticeable but still needed to smooth things out with the clutch!
Replaced the diff as it was noisy and by eck, no shunt at all.
Gesrbox lever used to get very warm, now stays cold!!! Increadable difference. Best bag of sand I’ve spent on the car. £1800 for a new one with bushes fitted that’s not bad as it’s a big old job
My party trick is to role along below 800 revs in second and just pull away without any clutch operation.
My left ft used to get very hot and sore now I only use it to change gear
Worth every penny and within minutes of driving mine I was convinced. Awesome.
CanoeSniffer said:
Good to hear that it’s a strong old thing, I’ll get a quote on a rebuild thank you! If I end up with anything close to 355hp/481lbft once I’ve had my wicked way then I’ll be delighted! Don’t know about the drag strips (may feel differently if I get hold of a few more horses), I do fairly regular track days but I assume that’s not quite so hard on the transmission.
I may be wrong about it being the diff Anthony, I’m on a carb so not exactly sophisticated fuelling- but shunting is often accompanied with a mechanical clunk from the rear of the car so I drew the conclusion that it was the diff. If I get it changed/refurbed and the car still shunts.. meh. WOT is what I’m more interested in
Thanks all for your help
On my car I had a clunk from the rear....and changed the CV joints to get rid of it.I may be wrong about it being the diff Anthony, I’m on a carb so not exactly sophisticated fuelling- but shunting is often accompanied with a mechanical clunk from the rear of the car so I drew the conclusion that it was the diff. If I get it changed/refurbed and the car still shunts.. meh. WOT is what I’m more interested in
Thanks all for your help
Edited by CanoeSniffer on Monday 4th June 22:30
A worn mounting bush could also be a source of the clunk
I would seriously recommend taking the car to a TVR expert to diagnose the source of the clunk before you open your wallet for what could be the wrong fix
If you suspect Dif bushes then use a big lever to try and move it, any movement will be magnified when driving.
I started with checking everything else first. Over time I concluded prop uj’s, drive shafts and even gearbox mounts were all good. The looseness was inside the Dif.
If it’s leaking it has to come out anyway really.
My personal opinion is your old diff will have wear in the parts they don’t replace so a new one with new gears etc seemed a no brainier.
Siliconekid has gone from GKN to BTR maybe he can help you with a list of parts!
I think it’s just brackets rather than anything difficult.
I started with checking everything else first. Over time I concluded prop uj’s, drive shafts and even gearbox mounts were all good. The looseness was inside the Dif.
If it’s leaking it has to come out anyway really.
My personal opinion is your old diff will have wear in the parts they don’t replace so a new one with new gears etc seemed a no brainier.
Siliconekid has gone from GKN to BTR maybe he can help you with a list of parts!
I think it’s just brackets rather than anything difficult.
I'll get a quote on the rebuild vs Centrals BTR swap.
I'm not too bothered about the shunting, it's not severe and easy to drive around. I'll have a poke with a big lever and see if there's any free play anywhere, but it's not the shunt I'm chasing really- just reckon I ought to get the diff sorted before it dumps all its fluid and explodes
I'm not too bothered about the shunting, it's not severe and easy to drive around. I'll have a poke with a big lever and see if there's any free play anywhere, but it's not the shunt I'm chasing really- just reckon I ought to get the diff sorted before it dumps all its fluid and explodes
CanoeSniffer said:
I'll get a quote on the rebuild vs Centrals BTR swap.
I'm not too bothered about the shunting, it's not severe and easy to drive around. I'll have a poke with a big lever and see if there's any free play anywhere, but it's not the shunt I'm chasing really- just reckon I ought to get the diff sorted before it dumps all its fluid and explodes
WiseI'm not too bothered about the shunting, it's not severe and easy to drive around. I'll have a poke with a big lever and see if there's any free play anywhere, but it's not the shunt I'm chasing really- just reckon I ought to get the diff sorted before it dumps all its fluid and explodes
CanoeSniffer said:
I may be wrong about it being the diff Anthony, I’m on a carb so not exactly sophisticated fuelling- but shunting is often accompanied with a mechanical clunk from the rear of the car so I drew the conclusion that it was the diff. If I get it changed/refurbed and the car still shunts.. meh. WOT is what I’m more interested in
I thought I had issues with my diff but it turned out to be wheel bearing and a CV joint. New Diff oil didn't go amiss either.Message Board | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff