Clean & grease handbrake mech in hub

[blaze_away]

I have an annoying squeak from nearside rear hub which I think is caused by the handbrake(HB) mechanism in the rear caliper.
I had it before I replaced all the disks pads and greased the caliper sliders and its still their now. It squeaks directly at the frequency of roation of the wheels. If I touch either the foot brake or handbrake it stops.
New brake cable also fitted and it was there before and after that too.
So do I need any special tools and techniques to get the HB mechanism apart and back together ?

[N7GTX]

I would take out the brake pads. Give them a wash with brake cleaner. Then using a file, make a 45 degree chamfer on the leading edge (and trailing edge too) of the pad material. This prevents the build up of particles of brake pad material between the disc and the pad face.
Apply some Ceratec - http://www.paddockspares.com/pm972-mintex-ceratec-... or copper grease to the pads on the metal edges where they slide in the housings and to the rear where the piston touches and the faces on the outside of the caliper.
If the problem is DEFINITELY the handbrake mechanism on the caliper there is almost nothing you can do as the mechanism is sealed inside the caliper. You can disconnect the cable (a right faff) and move the handbrake lever on the caliper using a screwdriver or grips to make full movement in the hope it frees it off. If the lever is sticking it usually means a replacement or recondition.
If you need to disconnect the cable from the calipers you have to unscrew the adjuster on the cable all the way off to give enough slack to get the loops off the hooks.

[blaze_away]

Thanks for the info Iain.
Will give those a go, not hopeful though as its all new discs and pads with chamfers and copperslipped but will try.
Had same squeak with old discs and pads hence thinking it is "old" stuff ie handbrake mechanism.
I thought it might be a faff. Looked on Cosworth forums and they mention a special tool for getting mechanism out/in.
I think it was Ford 27-007
But dont know what it looks like or does.

[Steve_D]

You will need one of these.


It applies pressure to the piston as well as winding the handbrake backwards. not expensive.

Steve

[blaze_away]

I have a similar tool for winding back the pistons but you mention it does the handbrake so amongst that set is their a "ford 12-007" look alike do you lnow ?
From what I have read here it is some sort of nut arrangement ???
http://www.fordmanuals.org/page-1567.html

[Steve_D]

blaze_away said:

I have a similar tool for winding back the pistons but you mention it does the handbrake so amongst that set is their a "ford 12-007" look alike do you lnow ?
From what I have read here it is some sort of nut arrangement ???
http://www.fordmanuals.org/page-1567.html

Not it is just the normal windback for the piston but you will still need it (or bodge) to get the piston out.
I've not done the job but that link also mentions getting around needing the tool.

Going back to the start...if the brake is dragging but the cable is loose then try pulling the cable hook on the caliper further into the released position. If this clears the dragging then the problem is down in that mechanism.
If the brake is not dragging then your noise is not being caused by this mechanism.

Thinking as I type...before you strip anything release the handbrake, reach under the car and move the cable hooks to the fully released position with a wrench. Then go for a drive trying to avoid touching the brakes and see if your noise is still there. I very much doubt this mechanism is your problem.

Steve

[Sardonicus]

N7GTX said:

I would take out the brake pads. Give them a wash with brake cleaner. Then using a file, make a 45 degree chamfer on the leading edge (and trailing edge too) of the pad material. This prevents the build up of particles of brake pad material between the disc and the pad face.
Apply some Ceratec - http://www.paddockspares.com/pm972-mintex-ceratec-... or copper grease to the pads on the metal edges where they slide in the housings and to the rear where the piston touches and the faces on the outside of the caliper.
If the problem is DEFINITELY the handbrake mechanism on the caliper there is almost nothing you can do as the mechanism is sealed inside the caliper. You can disconnect the cable (a right faff) and move the handbrake lever on the caliper using a screwdriver or grips to make full movement in the hope it frees it off. If the lever is sticking it usually means a replacement or recondition.
If you need to disconnect the cable from the calipers you have to unscrew the adjuster on the cable all the way off to give enough slack to get the loops off the hooks.

Yes I am with Ian on this it also very easy to see if the handbrake mechanism is causing the pads to bind by making sure the cranks/arms are sitting back on the stop pins, If this persists I would be checking for excess run-out on the offending disc also another cause of squeak/squeal

[blaze_away]

Thanks Steve, Simon.
Good stuff as always, you folks are are brilliant.
I will have a go at all that on Friday see if I can narrow it down.
Will no doubt be back after that.

[N7GTX]

If you don't have wind-back tools you can easily do this with a G clamp and grips. Once the caliper is free, place the G clamp with the pad against the piston and the other end over the caliper. Wind up the clamp until the pad presses firmly against the piston. The piston will move in a tiny bit. Now with the pressure still on, use the grips and turn the piston a half turn as if you are trying to screw it in to the caliper. Tighten the G clamp at the same time. Keep doing this until the piston is fully back. It sounds complicated but it is really easy. Just be careful not to damage the dust seal when applying the grips.

[mk1fan]

If you do take the callipers off for a refurb then add a slot (just a nadge wider that the handbrake cable) along the body of the calliper to allow you to unhook the cable easier.

[Hedgehopper]

1 use my angle grinder tool...……….