How much paint needed to paint chassis and wishbone arms.
Discussion
Hi.
Winter lockdown project.
I’ve taken the body off.
Outriggers totally rusted in the usual places.
They will be replaced.
Centre frame in surprisingly good condition.
Wishbone arms have surface rust.
My question is,
How much paint would be required, to paint the chassis, outriggers and wishbone arms.
I have a choice of 2.5lts or a 5lt can of paint.
Thank you.
Kind regards.
Jazzybees

Winter lockdown project.
I’ve taken the body off.
Outriggers totally rusted in the usual places.
They will be replaced.
Centre frame in surprisingly good condition.
Wishbone arms have surface rust.
My question is,
How much paint would be required, to paint the chassis, outriggers and wishbone arms.
I have a choice of 2.5lts or a 5lt can of paint.
Thank you.
Kind regards.
Jazzybees
I’d err on the side of caution and go for the 5 litres, it takes about 3.5 to do spraying it on which takes more I think,
You want at least two coats maybe 3 to be sure so it’s useful to have more rather not enough..
Hopefully someone who has done it by hand will offer a more definitive answer.
There is more to cover than it looks.
I’m sure you have done your research but I’d strike every edge and nook and cranny first as it’s easier to see what you have covered in those critical areas this way.
In garage light it’s easy to get white blindness lol.
Thinking about it I’d defo get 5 litres as all the brackets etc need doing.
You want at least two coats maybe 3 to be sure so it’s useful to have more rather not enough..
Hopefully someone who has done it by hand will offer a more definitive answer.
There is more to cover than it looks.
I’m sure you have done your research but I’d strike every edge and nook and cranny first as it’s easier to see what you have covered in those critical areas this way.
In garage light it’s easy to get white blindness lol.
Thinking about it I’d defo get 5 litres as all the brackets etc need doing.
Edited by Classic Chim on Thursday 28th January 10:34
jazzybees said:
Hi.
Classic chim, thank you for your reply.
I will definitely go for the five litres option.
I have done a bit of research, lots of answers via piston heads.
Actually, what do you mean by, strike every knook and cranny.
Thanks once again for your reply and answer.
Look up Rustbuster videos re striking car body steel before usually spraying but doing one of these chassis by hand it’s a great idea to strike all edges similarly. Classic chim, thank you for your reply.
I will definitely go for the five litres option.
I have done a bit of research, lots of answers via piston heads.
Actually, what do you mean by, strike every knook and cranny.
Thanks once again for your reply and answer.
Simply it is to use a brush to paint any sharpe or edge that struggles to take paint. Classically would be wishbones into the corners and the thin edges along there entire length, Chassis would be suspension lugs and all weld points where tubes meet etc. The rounded edges of the box tubing etc. Do this twice will cover 40% of the chassis anyway

It just makes it easier to see what you have painted in these critical area’s and allows final coats to really hold to those small areas and locks them into the final finish on the rest of the tubes.
It’s the area’s you will notice powdercoat tends to fails first.
Enjoy
Edited by Classic Chim on Thursday 28th January 11:58
The action of stripe (not strike = typo) coating basically builds a sharp corner into a rounder corner and that allows the further coats of paint to build up and not migrate away from the sharp edge. When I reburbed my S1 chassis I used a grinderette with a flap wheel, or a hand file where access is difficult, to physically round off as many of the sharp edges. It is not possible to do 100% of the edges so stripe painting is the way to go (do several coats). I also used different paint colour for each layer for two reasons. 1. Easy to see any areas missed 2. if chipped in the future you can see which layer is intact.
magpies said:
The action of stripe (not strike = typo) coating basically builds a sharp corner into a rounder corner and that allows the further coats of paint to build up and not migrate away from the sharp edge. When I reburbed my S1 chassis I used a grinderette with a flap wheel, or a hand file where access is difficult, to physically round off as many of the sharp edges. It is not possible to do 100% of the edges so stripe painting is the way to go (do several coats). I also used different paint colour for each layer for two reasons. 1. Easy to see any areas missed 2. if chipped in the future you can see which layer is intact.
Oupps I’m no expert obviously stripe ok Message Board | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


