XJS - Swapping complete interior - How difficult?
Discussion
I'm restoring my 91 XJS 4.0 facelift and I have bought another facelift XJS to break as I need various parts from it. I'm mainly using lights, front wing, bonnet, etc but I also prefer the interior from the one I'm breaking. It's grey leather and really is in mint condition considering the car is 20 years old. Thing is it's not just a matter of switching the seats as I'll need all of the interior trim, including the complete dash, etc. My question - is it a pain in the butt job to do or not too bad, I'm ok with the spanners so not afraid of tackling it, main worry is getting all the trim to fit correctly once swapped over, will it be a pain to get it all lined up?
Also I'm swapping the wheels over from the one I'm breaking as they're in much better condition, they're the same wheels but different tyres. Both sets of tyres have excellent tread on them, on the breaking one they are Nankang EX-601 (which I've never heard of) and the other has Pirelli P600's. Which are the better tyre for the XJS?
Many thanks!
Also I'm swapping the wheels over from the one I'm breaking as they're in much better condition, they're the same wheels but different tyres. Both sets of tyres have excellent tread on them, on the breaking one they are Nankang EX-601 (which I've never heard of) and the other has Pirelli P600's. Which are the better tyre for the XJS?
Many thanks!
I believe the XJS was fitted with Pirelli P400 or 4000 tyres for the 'touring' suspension, or P600/6000 for 'sports' suspension.
They haven't made P600 tyres for a while now, I would check how old they are and replace if in doubt. I had Pirelli P6 tyres on my V12 HE and that handled/rode very well indeed.
They haven't made P600 tyres for a while now, I would check how old they are and replace if in doubt. I had Pirelli P6 tyres on my V12 HE and that handled/rode very well indeed.
I've removed a dash from an x300 but will not be reinstalling it as the car is for parts only. I'd advise you take plenty of photos and make lots of notes if they can actually be swapped. Are all the switches the same etc? It would be a nightmare if you dismantled it and found they were not interchangeable. Seats and door cards will be easier but again, I have no idea if they are interchangeable as regards the wiring.
Edit: just realised they are both the same model and perhaps the same year. If it is anything like the x300 you will get things to line up as many of the securings have an adjustment. Go for it but be prepared for major headaches with the dash.
Here is the notes I posted on jag-lovers regarding the x300 and I'm sure it will be very similar for an xjs.
Removing the Dash (for access to the air con evaporator): from a thread on Jaglovers X300 Forum
This is one heck of a job but doable - this is a guide, not a step-by-step.
You must label all plugs and the corresponding socket - even if you think you can find them. Write every step down, it'll take three times longer but will be invaluable come rebuild.
There are a lot of cable ties so note where they go. The order may be mixed up a little but you should be able to work most of it out.
Disconnect the battery!!!!!
Remove ski slope. Remove radio/clock/climate control unit, centre console armrest etc. Unplug the Valet switch at it's plug (follow the wires) rather than prising it out of it's position in the armrest. Remove climate control dome thingy on top of dash in centre of windscreen - unplug it.
Passenger side: remove glove box, air bag cover, airbag cradle and air bag. Remove airbag module and body processor module.
Driver's side: remove lower dash and unplug aspirator.
Remove the centre air ducts along the transmission tunnel - they are gaffer taped and put up some resistance - goodness knows how they go back in. Centre vent is easily broken so make the tool and be prepared to break some vanes.
Dash side covers at doors: open doors, try to push the pegs out from the inside. Side vents: feel around for the clips (might be at the top or bottom) - depress clips and wiggle vetns out.
Unclip the dash top vents and unplug tweeters. Vents can crack so be careful - might be screws here. Disconnect centre fan and heater core from all plugs to potentiometers and water in water out - catch coolant in bucket. Undo screws and disconnect black plastic air channel things to heater.
Undo four bolts/nuts under instrument binnacle and lift upwards and towards you. Unplug two plugs back of binnacle.
There are various aluminium/steel brackets/stays that need to be unbolted. The dash top is held onto the bulkhead by only a few nuts.
Take off the steering wheel after removing the air-bag. There are various black/silver modules around the drivers side of the dash that may or may not need removal to gain access to the nuts/bolts securing the evaporator. I'm not sure if the air con needs to be de-gassed to remove the two pipes in the engine bay that bolt onto the evaporator.
The lights switch/trip computer panel has have to come off to get the dash top off.
There are wiring harnesses cable tied to the dash top which need to be cut.
Lift the dash top off - maybe the A pillar trims also need to be removed? If so, unclip the chrome parts on the hand grips and
find torx screws underneath. Remove hand grips. Pull the trim off.
Reassemble in reverse order !!!
Edit: just realised they are both the same model and perhaps the same year. If it is anything like the x300 you will get things to line up as many of the securings have an adjustment. Go for it but be prepared for major headaches with the dash.
Here is the notes I posted on jag-lovers regarding the x300 and I'm sure it will be very similar for an xjs.
Removing the Dash (for access to the air con evaporator): from a thread on Jaglovers X300 Forum
This is one heck of a job but doable - this is a guide, not a step-by-step.
You must label all plugs and the corresponding socket - even if you think you can find them. Write every step down, it'll take three times longer but will be invaluable come rebuild.
There are a lot of cable ties so note where they go. The order may be mixed up a little but you should be able to work most of it out.
Disconnect the battery!!!!!
Remove ski slope. Remove radio/clock/climate control unit, centre console armrest etc. Unplug the Valet switch at it's plug (follow the wires) rather than prising it out of it's position in the armrest. Remove climate control dome thingy on top of dash in centre of windscreen - unplug it.
Passenger side: remove glove box, air bag cover, airbag cradle and air bag. Remove airbag module and body processor module.
Driver's side: remove lower dash and unplug aspirator.
Remove the centre air ducts along the transmission tunnel - they are gaffer taped and put up some resistance - goodness knows how they go back in. Centre vent is easily broken so make the tool and be prepared to break some vanes.
Dash side covers at doors: open doors, try to push the pegs out from the inside. Side vents: feel around for the clips (might be at the top or bottom) - depress clips and wiggle vetns out.
Unclip the dash top vents and unplug tweeters. Vents can crack so be careful - might be screws here. Disconnect centre fan and heater core from all plugs to potentiometers and water in water out - catch coolant in bucket. Undo screws and disconnect black plastic air channel things to heater.
Undo four bolts/nuts under instrument binnacle and lift upwards and towards you. Unplug two plugs back of binnacle.
There are various aluminium/steel brackets/stays that need to be unbolted. The dash top is held onto the bulkhead by only a few nuts.
Take off the steering wheel after removing the air-bag. There are various black/silver modules around the drivers side of the dash that may or may not need removal to gain access to the nuts/bolts securing the evaporator. I'm not sure if the air con needs to be de-gassed to remove the two pipes in the engine bay that bolt onto the evaporator.
The lights switch/trip computer panel has have to come off to get the dash top off.
There are wiring harnesses cable tied to the dash top which need to be cut.
Lift the dash top off - maybe the A pillar trims also need to be removed? If so, unclip the chrome parts on the hand grips and
find torx screws underneath. Remove hand grips. Pull the trim off.
Reassemble in reverse order !!!
Edited by Straight6DOHC on Thursday 2nd June 22:37
XJS07 said:
I'm restoring my 91 XJS 4.0 facelift and I have bought another facelift XJS to break as I need various parts from it. I'm mainly using lights, front wing, bonnet, etc but I also prefer the interior from the one I'm breaking. It's grey leather and really is in mint condition considering the car is 20 years old. Thing is it's not just a matter of switching the seats as I'll need all of the interior trim, including the complete dash, etc. My question - is it a pain in the butt job to do or not too bad, I'm ok with the spanners so not afraid of tackling it, main worry is getting all the trim to fit correctly once swapped over, will it be a pain to get it all lined up?
Also I'm swapping the wheels over from the one I'm breaking as they're in much better condition, they're the same wheels but different tyres. Both sets of tyres have excellent tread on them, on the breaking one they are Nankang EX-601 (which I've never heard of) and the other has Pirelli P600's. Which are the better tyre for the XJS?
Many thanks!
Most of the trim will come out OK as longAlso I'm swapping the wheels over from the one I'm breaking as they're in much better condition, they're the same wheels but different tyres. Both sets of tyres have excellent tread on them, on the breaking one they are Nankang EX-601 (which I've never heard of) and the other has Pirelli P600's. Which are the better tyre for the XJS?
Many thanks!
as you are methodical. As advised start with the centre console,the
seats, door panels, carpets, etc until you have basically the dashboard left.
That's when it gets a bit more involved. Our's had a hole you could
put your fist through at the top of the LHS bulkhead.( hence the water
leak, hence the soaking carpet, hence no floorpans anymore )
I take it your car has SRS ?
getting the passenger side airbag module out with the main dash still in
situ is VERY difficult. I've done it, followed by the LHS Valeo
fan unit. Please be extremely careful when working with the airbag
systems, as already advised disconnect the battery before you
work on anything.
When you disconnect any plugs tape a small label to remind you
what goes where. With the carpets out, there is a lot of wiring !
Two main looms run across the transmission tunnel to the back of the
car, on the lhs side and another smaller one on the drivers side.
I secured the MAIN ecu on tiewraps and reinstalled the drivers seat
only, so I could still drive the car around the workshop.
To get the complete dash assembly out, requires dropping the steering
column, imo. Otherwise it fouls .
All of this I've decribed here takes a fair amount of time...
be methodical and store everything you take off the car, carefully.
You'll find out this isn't a mk2 Escort you're taking to bits,
I did !
Good Luck with it. My car 's on P600'S incidentally with the 5 spoke
alloys.
Edited by mikele pirelli on Monday 6th June 13:41
Follow up to my earlier post:
The main dashboard assy has a steel " hoop " which runs under the
steering column. You may be able to get this clear if the steering
wheel is off completely.
I haven't tried it.... my problems were all on the LHS. So, I didn't
remove either the steering wheel or the main dash. But, if you really
want the whole dash, totally out, you might be able to do it like this ?
Someone else may have done this and can advise further ?
This is in a car with the six dial wood updated instrument cluster.
The main dashboard assy has a steel " hoop " which runs under the
steering column. You may be able to get this clear if the steering
wheel is off completely.
I haven't tried it.... my problems were all on the LHS. So, I didn't
remove either the steering wheel or the main dash. But, if you really
want the whole dash, totally out, you might be able to do it like this ?
Someone else may have done this and can advise further ?
This is in a car with the six dial wood updated instrument cluster.
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