98S XJR with 34k for £7,000 - Would you?
Discussion
Looking at a black XJR 1998 with 34,000 miles for £7,000.
2 owner. Jag service until the last 2 years when the second owner bought it. He has only done fluid changes (he had done 5,000 miles)
He has agreed to put it into Jaguar for a service as part of the deal. MOT and tax to January.
What should I worry about?
What needs checking?
Is it a good price?
Thank you
2 owner. Jag service until the last 2 years when the second owner bought it. He has only done fluid changes (he had done 5,000 miles)
He has agreed to put it into Jaguar for a service as part of the deal. MOT and tax to January.
What should I worry about?
What needs checking?
Is it a good price?
Thank you
You are paying a big premium for that low mileage. Average mileage cars 100K miles are unlikely to get £3k Jags don't like low mileage and it will not have helped the suspension so don't be surprised if you still have to change all the bushes etc. in the next 18 months. They are great cars you will enjoy.
Thats a lot of money but if it's perfect and you really want it you'll just have to cough up. Either that or compromise - £3 to £4 grand will find you a really good X308.
Whatever you buy the gearbox oil will have to be changed - it's a "sealed for life" box but can and ought to be done to prevent premature failure. Same for the diff - again "sealed for life" but should be done too. Both operations are not just a simple drain and refill and require some knowledge but can be DIY'd
Around the 2000 model year the V8 engine was revised. Revised engined cars have a vin number ending with one letter and five figures ie FXXXXX.
Early 1997 to 2000 cars had engines with Nicasil coated bores which with high Sulphur content fuel under some circumstances can errode leading to compression failure. Lots of engines were replaced by Jaguar under warranty and can be identified by a green tag at the back of the block. Nicasil issues should not be a concern now with the reduction of Sulphur in fuel in 2000 so if you find an early car with an original engine it should be OK. They also had weak waterpumps and secondary timing chain tensioners that are prone to failure as well as a throttle body that should have been replaced under a recall.
With the exception of the secondary timing chian tensioners, 2000 on cars had all the earlier version concerns addressed with a revised waterpump steel liners in the engine and a stronger throttle body. Timing chain tensioners were upgraded to the mk2 version but these can still fail and allow the chain to slip or break.
The permanent cure is to retro fit the mk3 version which has a metal not plastic body. This can be DIY'd too with some knowledge. You may find a garage prepared to change them for you for around £3/400 but most professional mechanics like to play safe and change all the chains and tensioners which'll cost closer to a grand
Once sorted the V8 engine and drivetrain is robust and reliable.
Things to look for are rust behind the front shocks where the reinforcing plate meets the subframne mount, rust round the rear arches and under the front and rear screen rubbers and the bottom of the front wings. Bumpers often get scuffed and bodies get supermarket dings and you may occasionally find peeling lacquer or darker coloured cars. Low or dirty engine oil smacks of neglect and can lead to bearing failure and excessive timing chan wear.
Check the tyres are evenly worn - if not the car potentially has misaligned suspension geometry due to bush failure. Listen for clonks and rattles from the rear over bumps as the rear shock bushes wear.
Check the car brakes in a smooth straight line and feel for vibration. XJs are prone to warping discs and are very sensitive to wheel/tyre balance or problems and damaged rims.
Make sure drive engages smoothly and gearchanges are seamless and quiet. Any hesitation or thump in engaging drive indicates gearbox problems which may be improved with an oil change but not a chance I'd take.
Apart from that the V8 XJ from 1997-2003 is well made and capable of high mileage if looked after. Generally the build quality, body and paint is good - better in fact then the later aluminium bodied cars. The view to take IMO is to buy the very best one you can find, not a cheaper one that requires work.
Parts are reasonable and readily available and it's not too hard to DIY most things like discs/pads and routine servicing. Odd electrical faults may a bit of a challenge but an £18 OBD2 scanner will diagnose a lot. Mid price tyres can be found for around £100 a corner. There's lots of Jaguar breakers on the net too if you need cheap parts
16" rims and touring suspension spec (black coloured shocks) gives the best ride quality, larger diameter wheels and sport suspension (green shocks) gives better handling at the expense of loss of comfort. You might find a CATS equipped car which does both. Ya pays ya money...
Expect up to to 28MPG on a long run from a n/a car and a lot less if you do a lot of town driving or spank it everywhere.
Whatever you buy the gearbox oil will have to be changed - it's a "sealed for life" box but can and ought to be done to prevent premature failure. Same for the diff - again "sealed for life" but should be done too. Both operations are not just a simple drain and refill and require some knowledge but can be DIY'd
Around the 2000 model year the V8 engine was revised. Revised engined cars have a vin number ending with one letter and five figures ie FXXXXX.
Early 1997 to 2000 cars had engines with Nicasil coated bores which with high Sulphur content fuel under some circumstances can errode leading to compression failure. Lots of engines were replaced by Jaguar under warranty and can be identified by a green tag at the back of the block. Nicasil issues should not be a concern now with the reduction of Sulphur in fuel in 2000 so if you find an early car with an original engine it should be OK. They also had weak waterpumps and secondary timing chain tensioners that are prone to failure as well as a throttle body that should have been replaced under a recall.
With the exception of the secondary timing chian tensioners, 2000 on cars had all the earlier version concerns addressed with a revised waterpump steel liners in the engine and a stronger throttle body. Timing chain tensioners were upgraded to the mk2 version but these can still fail and allow the chain to slip or break.
The permanent cure is to retro fit the mk3 version which has a metal not plastic body. This can be DIY'd too with some knowledge. You may find a garage prepared to change them for you for around £3/400 but most professional mechanics like to play safe and change all the chains and tensioners which'll cost closer to a grand
Once sorted the V8 engine and drivetrain is robust and reliable.
Things to look for are rust behind the front shocks where the reinforcing plate meets the subframne mount, rust round the rear arches and under the front and rear screen rubbers and the bottom of the front wings. Bumpers often get scuffed and bodies get supermarket dings and you may occasionally find peeling lacquer or darker coloured cars. Low or dirty engine oil smacks of neglect and can lead to bearing failure and excessive timing chan wear.
Check the tyres are evenly worn - if not the car potentially has misaligned suspension geometry due to bush failure. Listen for clonks and rattles from the rear over bumps as the rear shock bushes wear.
Check the car brakes in a smooth straight line and feel for vibration. XJs are prone to warping discs and are very sensitive to wheel/tyre balance or problems and damaged rims.
Make sure drive engages smoothly and gearchanges are seamless and quiet. Any hesitation or thump in engaging drive indicates gearbox problems which may be improved with an oil change but not a chance I'd take.
Apart from that the V8 XJ from 1997-2003 is well made and capable of high mileage if looked after. Generally the build quality, body and paint is good - better in fact then the later aluminium bodied cars. The view to take IMO is to buy the very best one you can find, not a cheaper one that requires work.
Parts are reasonable and readily available and it's not too hard to DIY most things like discs/pads and routine servicing. Odd electrical faults may a bit of a challenge but an £18 OBD2 scanner will diagnose a lot. Mid price tyres can be found for around £100 a corner. There's lots of Jaguar breakers on the net too if you need cheap parts
16" rims and touring suspension spec (black coloured shocks) gives the best ride quality, larger diameter wheels and sport suspension (green shocks) gives better handling at the expense of loss of comfort. You might find a CATS equipped car which does both. Ya pays ya money...
Expect up to to 28MPG on a long run from a n/a car and a lot less if you do a lot of town driving or spank it everywhere.
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