Looking at a 2001 XKR....
Discussion
Hi
I've been out of a Jag for a little while now, but a friend of mine has just had a 'heads up' on an XKR that is about to be traded in by another friend of his.
I don't have much info so far, but it is a one owner 01 car which he is replacing with one of the very last new XKRs you can order, so I doubt he has skimped on servicing in that time.
Probably looking at the 6.5k mark, but without knowing any history, details or mileage I realise that this is a bit of a non-question, but any remarks, suggestions or advice would be good. I'll hopefully get some more info tomorrow, but I have already been given a green light by Mrs C......
One other thing, we have two children (10 and 7) who will have to squeeze into the back (they're not driving) - is this realistic?
Thanks
I've been out of a Jag for a little while now, but a friend of mine has just had a 'heads up' on an XKR that is about to be traded in by another friend of his.
I don't have much info so far, but it is a one owner 01 car which he is replacing with one of the very last new XKRs you can order, so I doubt he has skimped on servicing in that time.
Probably looking at the 6.5k mark, but without knowing any history, details or mileage I realise that this is a bit of a non-question, but any remarks, suggestions or advice would be good. I'll hopefully get some more info tomorrow, but I have already been given a green light by Mrs C......
One other thing, we have two children (10 and 7) who will have to squeeze into the back (they're not driving) - is this realistic?
Thanks
You will have to get your kids to sit in the back which will probably work. Then fast forward a few years and imagine them as lanky teenagers who hate their stupid parents and that stupid car and everything which probably won't. 
The 2001 XKR is mechanically identical to the 4.0 XJR X308. XK specific considerations are floor pan corrosion and convertible hood operation. Prices are around double if not a bit more for a XK compared to an equivalent - age, mileage, condition - XJ.
Condition is absolutely everything. Ideally you need to find an enthusiasts car that's been well cared for.
X308 Buyers Guide
OVERVIEW
To avoid XJ model confusion the 1997-2002 V8 engined XJ is referred to by its factory designation as the X308. The V8 engine in the 308 is available in a 3.2, 4.0 with VVT and a supercharged 4.0 and all versions are 5 speed auto only. £3000 should buy you a good example of a base 3.2, but the best low mileage cars or high spec ones are priced at up to double that. Engines were revised in late 1999 model year from AJ26 version to AJ27. A car fitted with the revised engine version can be identified by a VIN number ending in five, not six digits. AJ26 cars had weak water pumps, secondary timing chain tensioners, throttle bodies and a Nicasil coating applied directly on the aluminum block bore walls rather than using conventional liners pressed into the block.
ENGINE NICASIL
Some Nicasil coatings suffered from erosion due to a combination of high Sulphur content fuel and repeated short trips. Sulphur maximum allowable limits in petrol were lowered considerably in Jan 2000 so any pre 2000 Nicasil coated V8 engine that's still OK now should be fine forever. Several Nicasil lined engines were changed under warranty so you may find a pre 2000 car with a later steel lined engine fitted - identify this by the presence of a green tag on the head buried at the back of the RH bank and the engine change should also be recorded in the history. Symptoms of bore erosion and loss of compression are poor cold starting, a lumpy idle and heavy oil deposits in the breather system and air intake. Crankcase pressure will be high too – a quick check for this is to slightly lift the oil filler cap at hot idle. There should be little or no internal pressure or fumes escaping. Jaguar dealers can perform a blow by check to determine engine condition. A good condition engine will show less than 25 l/m, anything over 40 l/m will make a good Top Gear coffee table.
ENGINE COOLING
Impellors on AJ26 water pumps can disintegrate giving a loss of efficiency leading to overheating and potential head gasket failure. An early pump can be changed to the later version with a metal, not plastic impellor. The temperature gauge is software driven and is not always an accurate refection of actual coolant temperature.
For an indication of water pump efficiency, remove the coolant header tank cap when the engine is STONE COLD, start up and gently increase engine speed. If the water pump is healthy you should see a steady stream of coolant into the tank from the thin return pipe that runs back from the front of the engine.
You may be able to identify the later type of pump by the presence of a black plastic, not metal gasket, but the only certain way is to remove the pump and have a look. Spring type coolant hose clips can loose tension and allow pipes to blow off and some plastic parts on the hoses, unions and thermostat housing are delicate. It’s worth replacing all the sprung coolant clips with proper Jubilee ones. Check all over for evidence of coolant leaks, particularly around the thermostat/filler cap tower and coolant (valley) pipes underneath the inlet manifold. Occasional auxiliary heater pump failures can lead to no heat output in the cabin at low engine RPM. Cycle the whole climate and a/c system through all vent operations and temperature range. Two types of coolant available for the XJ - don’t mix the later orange long life one with the earlier type.
ENGINE THROTTLE BODIES
AJ26 throttle bodies ought to have been changed to the later design under a factory safety recall. Some of the early bodies suffered from failing actuating motors causing to the engine to cut out completely on the overrun. The later design should have been factory fitted to all cars from VIN 043775 onwards.
SECONDARY TIMING CHAIN TENSIONERS AND CHAINS
The only post AJ26 revision engine issue is the secondary timing chain tensioners. These were revised to a mk 2 version around the same time as the rest of the 1999 engine revisions but the mk 2 type still had a plastic body which can crack or break up leading to slipped or broken chains. Mk 1 tensioners are actuated by engine oil pressure and failure can often be identified by a sharp rattling noise similar to a bicycle chain dragging on the chain guard on a cold start. The mk2 type is permanently tensioned by an integral spring instead which means it’ll usually fail silently.
A permanent solution is to retro-fit the later mk3 version tensioner made with a metal, not plastic body from the later 4.2 incarnation of the V8 engine and the only way to be sure of which tensioners are fitted to an 308 is to either have a receipt with tensioner part numbers C2A1511 and C2A1512 which are the metal bodied type and the required 4 new bolts to fit them on it relating to that particular car or remove the RH cam cover - the LH is a PITA to get off - and have a look. A reddish/orange (mk1) or cream (mk2) plastic tensioner body is bad news, a grey aluminum metal one (mk3) is good.
The cam phasing on the V8 means the timing gear works hard and timing chains can stretch at high mileages or on neglected cars. If this is identified then a full chain and tensioner replacement is required costing up to £1000. If the chains/sprockets and guides are OK then it’s a wise precaution to fit the mk3 secondary tensioners which is a fairly easy DIY job. Tensioners cost around £75 a set plus a couple of quid for new bolts. Cam setting tools for this job and all other special tools needed for any work on a 308 can all be hired from the Jaguar Enthusiasts’ Club. Secondary tensioners can also be changed without any tools by removing the exhaust cam whilst preserving the timing with a tie wrap holding the chain on the ex cam sprocket and easing the tensioners out of location.
Exhaust cam chains slipping one tooth – usually on a cold start - will give a very rough running engine, more than one tooth slipped means exhaust valves will meet pistons.
A good general rule of thumb for engine condition is internal cleanliness. Bright shiny metal inside the oil filler cap and dipstick along with clean oil and no evidence of leaks is a good sign, as is clear coolant that does not smell or taste bitter or acrid.
GEARBOX/ DRIVELINE
All X308s have a “sealed for life” gearbox – ZF unit in the n/a cars and a Mercedes one in the supercharged cars. Loads have failed now - just look on ebay in the non runners or spares and repairs section. Any car that hesitates or engages Drive with a jerk or thump as the engine speed rises has a potential gearbox failure looming. Gear changes should be seamless and quiet and you should be able to play tunes with the throttle, Sport switch and J gate selector. Any car stuck in 4th or 5th is FUBAR’d.
A very faint gear whine may be heard in intermediate gears. Any gearbox issues or concerns are potentially fatal. An oil and filter change may be all that’s needed to cure a gearbox malfunction but that’s never guaranteed.
Ideally the gearbox oil and filter should be changed at 50k then at 25k intervals; it's not a simple drain and refill on the ZF box as the final fill has to be done quickly with the engine running and within a narrow temperature range. There is no conventional dipstick for checking oil level.
The ZF 5 speed box on the n/a cars requires Esso/Mobil longlife LT 71141 fluid also known as Lifeguard Fluid 5 and not conventional Dexron 3. The Mercedes gearbox in the supercharged version is also sealed for life but the same change requirement apply although you can use Dexron 3 in this box and once you have fitted a temporary dipstick it’s a much less complex job to do. Some transmission specialists offer a flush and change service done via the rather fragile oil cooler pipes in the radiator which also gets the oil otherwise retained in the torque converter out.
The same applies to the rear axle. Oil should be changed but there’s no drain plug. Old oil has to be vacuum extracted out of the filler plug. Refill with a API GL5 75 or 85/90 oil. Noisy diffs can be quieted down quite a bit with EP140 or 250 oil.
BODY, PAINT AND CORROSION
Substantially better than earlier cars. Look for corrosion round the rear wheel arches, round the front and rear screens especially underneath the screen rubbers in the bottom corners, bottom of the front wings, sill closing panels and most importantly behind the front shocks on both sides. There's a reinforcing plate where the engine sub frame V mount is bolted to the body rail and some cars have corroded badly here. Corrosion around the same area may also be visible in the engine compartment on the top of the body rail around the heads of the bolts that retain the top of the V mounts. It's an MOT fail and a big welding job. Another area to check is the joint between the rear of the front inner wings and the bulkhead. Body and paintwork is otherwise pretty good however some darker coloured cars suffer from peeling lacquer. Bumper corners are susceptible to damage and bumper mounting brackets can corrode.
Lacquer on the XJ8 is soft and easy to scratch with careless washing Providing you can’t actually feel scratches with a thumbnail and the paint colour underneath is OK it’s possible to restore the bodywork to a very good finish with a through clay, polish and wax. Stripe down body flanks if car has one is hand painted and not always completely straight.
INTERIOR
Always leather with different levels of trim and seat design. Wood trim clips on and is easy to change to different type. Driver’s seat back and steering wheels tend to suffer from wear. Head linings can sag. LWB version has more room in back.
SUSPENSION, TYRES AND BRAKES
X308s are hard on suspension and brakes, listen and feel very carefully for any clonking or knocking over bumps and make sure the car comes to a straight judder-free stop under both light and hard braking. A sharp rattle heard and felt through the steering over bumps combined with a little free play in the steering wheel may be a worn crush joint on the lower steering column.
A clattery rattle from the rear is likely to be failed shocks or shock bushes. X308s with weak rear A frame bushes or rear hub pivots will tend to self steer and wander about under hard acceleration.
Feel round the tyres for uneven wear patterns; any suspension wear or bush failure giving incorrect geometry will cause tyres to feather badly and heavy wear in the inside edges is a symptom of excess negative camber from wishbone bush or ball joint failure. Slight and even feathering is normal on the front tyres.
All Jaguar XJs are very sensitive to wheel and tyre imbalances or damage, typically you'll feel a steering wobble between 50-70MPH and possibly vibration through the seat if there are any tyre problems or buckled wheels. A Hunter Roadforce wheel balance is usually the solution. Incorrect tyre pressures, worn out or cheap budget tyres will severely affect handling and ride. Most X308s exhibit a faint exhaust harmonic around 50 and another one at 65MPH. You might possibly experience a hint of driveline vibration through the body too. Don't expect too much in the way of the legendary Jaguar ride quality either - it's pretty good on touring (black shocks) suspension and 16" wheels but sport suspension cars (green shocks) are stiffer and have a thicker front anti roll bar and one on the rear too which when combined with larger diameter wheels and lower profile tyres gives a hard crashy ride on poor roads. CATS suspension may be fitted as an option to any X308. CATS has electronically controlled valves in the shocks to vary the damping rates depending on driving style. Identify CATS by the presence of a plastic cover over the top of the front shock absorber with a lead going into it.
ELECTRICIAL/ OBD2 DIAGNOSTICS
Electrical systems are generally pretty robust. As with any old car you might have the odd problem so check absolutely everything works. Even the earliest X308 is OBD2 compliant and a £20 code reader plugged into the socket in the driver’s footwell will help diagnosis a lot. Electric aerials are vunerable, there are occasional O2 sensor, airflow meter and brake light switch failures.
XJ’s need a strong battery to avoid random error messages appearing on start up. If you get one – usually TRAC FAIL – the battery is on its way out or needs several days on a trickle charge to bring it back up to full capacity.
BUYING AND LIVING WITH AN XJ
Generally the 1997-2002 XJ8 is a strong car and capable of big mileages if maintained well and not abused or neglected. It's mostly easy enough to DIY and parts are reasonable and in good supply from several independents and the Jaguar Classic Parts scheme. Expect around 26/8 MPG on the motorway, 20/4 round town and mid teens or less if you nail it everywhere. Tyres are around £100/120 a corner in 16" diameter size. The 3.2 is quick enough (0-60 is 8s) the 4.0 is much rarer and does the same in 7.0.
Shortening intervals between servicing and using a genuine fully synthetic oil is worthwhile. It’ll help protect the timing chains and give improved fuel economy. A through rust proofing and full fluid change is a benefit too if you want to preserve the car. Official servicing is annual or 10000 miles. 70k service is the expensive one on n/a cars.
One last thing. A software fault means you should never start an XJ8 from cold and then switch off again straightaway and before allowing the temp gauge to move off the cold section of the scale. Chances are it’ll flood when you next start and wash all the oil of the bores and it’s a right PITA to get it running again.
The 2001 XKR is mechanically identical to the 4.0 XJR X308. XK specific considerations are floor pan corrosion and convertible hood operation. Prices are around double if not a bit more for a XK compared to an equivalent - age, mileage, condition - XJ.
Condition is absolutely everything. Ideally you need to find an enthusiasts car that's been well cared for.
X308 Buyers Guide
OVERVIEW
To avoid XJ model confusion the 1997-2002 V8 engined XJ is referred to by its factory designation as the X308. The V8 engine in the 308 is available in a 3.2, 4.0 with VVT and a supercharged 4.0 and all versions are 5 speed auto only. £3000 should buy you a good example of a base 3.2, but the best low mileage cars or high spec ones are priced at up to double that. Engines were revised in late 1999 model year from AJ26 version to AJ27. A car fitted with the revised engine version can be identified by a VIN number ending in five, not six digits. AJ26 cars had weak water pumps, secondary timing chain tensioners, throttle bodies and a Nicasil coating applied directly on the aluminum block bore walls rather than using conventional liners pressed into the block.
ENGINE NICASIL
Some Nicasil coatings suffered from erosion due to a combination of high Sulphur content fuel and repeated short trips. Sulphur maximum allowable limits in petrol were lowered considerably in Jan 2000 so any pre 2000 Nicasil coated V8 engine that's still OK now should be fine forever. Several Nicasil lined engines were changed under warranty so you may find a pre 2000 car with a later steel lined engine fitted - identify this by the presence of a green tag on the head buried at the back of the RH bank and the engine change should also be recorded in the history. Symptoms of bore erosion and loss of compression are poor cold starting, a lumpy idle and heavy oil deposits in the breather system and air intake. Crankcase pressure will be high too – a quick check for this is to slightly lift the oil filler cap at hot idle. There should be little or no internal pressure or fumes escaping. Jaguar dealers can perform a blow by check to determine engine condition. A good condition engine will show less than 25 l/m, anything over 40 l/m will make a good Top Gear coffee table.
ENGINE COOLING
Impellors on AJ26 water pumps can disintegrate giving a loss of efficiency leading to overheating and potential head gasket failure. An early pump can be changed to the later version with a metal, not plastic impellor. The temperature gauge is software driven and is not always an accurate refection of actual coolant temperature.
For an indication of water pump efficiency, remove the coolant header tank cap when the engine is STONE COLD, start up and gently increase engine speed. If the water pump is healthy you should see a steady stream of coolant into the tank from the thin return pipe that runs back from the front of the engine.
You may be able to identify the later type of pump by the presence of a black plastic, not metal gasket, but the only certain way is to remove the pump and have a look. Spring type coolant hose clips can loose tension and allow pipes to blow off and some plastic parts on the hoses, unions and thermostat housing are delicate. It’s worth replacing all the sprung coolant clips with proper Jubilee ones. Check all over for evidence of coolant leaks, particularly around the thermostat/filler cap tower and coolant (valley) pipes underneath the inlet manifold. Occasional auxiliary heater pump failures can lead to no heat output in the cabin at low engine RPM. Cycle the whole climate and a/c system through all vent operations and temperature range. Two types of coolant available for the XJ - don’t mix the later orange long life one with the earlier type.
ENGINE THROTTLE BODIES
AJ26 throttle bodies ought to have been changed to the later design under a factory safety recall. Some of the early bodies suffered from failing actuating motors causing to the engine to cut out completely on the overrun. The later design should have been factory fitted to all cars from VIN 043775 onwards.
SECONDARY TIMING CHAIN TENSIONERS AND CHAINS
The only post AJ26 revision engine issue is the secondary timing chain tensioners. These were revised to a mk 2 version around the same time as the rest of the 1999 engine revisions but the mk 2 type still had a plastic body which can crack or break up leading to slipped or broken chains. Mk 1 tensioners are actuated by engine oil pressure and failure can often be identified by a sharp rattling noise similar to a bicycle chain dragging on the chain guard on a cold start. The mk2 type is permanently tensioned by an integral spring instead which means it’ll usually fail silently.
A permanent solution is to retro-fit the later mk3 version tensioner made with a metal, not plastic body from the later 4.2 incarnation of the V8 engine and the only way to be sure of which tensioners are fitted to an 308 is to either have a receipt with tensioner part numbers C2A1511 and C2A1512 which are the metal bodied type and the required 4 new bolts to fit them on it relating to that particular car or remove the RH cam cover - the LH is a PITA to get off - and have a look. A reddish/orange (mk1) or cream (mk2) plastic tensioner body is bad news, a grey aluminum metal one (mk3) is good.
The cam phasing on the V8 means the timing gear works hard and timing chains can stretch at high mileages or on neglected cars. If this is identified then a full chain and tensioner replacement is required costing up to £1000. If the chains/sprockets and guides are OK then it’s a wise precaution to fit the mk3 secondary tensioners which is a fairly easy DIY job. Tensioners cost around £75 a set plus a couple of quid for new bolts. Cam setting tools for this job and all other special tools needed for any work on a 308 can all be hired from the Jaguar Enthusiasts’ Club. Secondary tensioners can also be changed without any tools by removing the exhaust cam whilst preserving the timing with a tie wrap holding the chain on the ex cam sprocket and easing the tensioners out of location.
Exhaust cam chains slipping one tooth – usually on a cold start - will give a very rough running engine, more than one tooth slipped means exhaust valves will meet pistons.
A good general rule of thumb for engine condition is internal cleanliness. Bright shiny metal inside the oil filler cap and dipstick along with clean oil and no evidence of leaks is a good sign, as is clear coolant that does not smell or taste bitter or acrid.
GEARBOX/ DRIVELINE
All X308s have a “sealed for life” gearbox – ZF unit in the n/a cars and a Mercedes one in the supercharged cars. Loads have failed now - just look on ebay in the non runners or spares and repairs section. Any car that hesitates or engages Drive with a jerk or thump as the engine speed rises has a potential gearbox failure looming. Gear changes should be seamless and quiet and you should be able to play tunes with the throttle, Sport switch and J gate selector. Any car stuck in 4th or 5th is FUBAR’d.
A very faint gear whine may be heard in intermediate gears. Any gearbox issues or concerns are potentially fatal. An oil and filter change may be all that’s needed to cure a gearbox malfunction but that’s never guaranteed.
Ideally the gearbox oil and filter should be changed at 50k then at 25k intervals; it's not a simple drain and refill on the ZF box as the final fill has to be done quickly with the engine running and within a narrow temperature range. There is no conventional dipstick for checking oil level.
The ZF 5 speed box on the n/a cars requires Esso/Mobil longlife LT 71141 fluid also known as Lifeguard Fluid 5 and not conventional Dexron 3. The Mercedes gearbox in the supercharged version is also sealed for life but the same change requirement apply although you can use Dexron 3 in this box and once you have fitted a temporary dipstick it’s a much less complex job to do. Some transmission specialists offer a flush and change service done via the rather fragile oil cooler pipes in the radiator which also gets the oil otherwise retained in the torque converter out.
The same applies to the rear axle. Oil should be changed but there’s no drain plug. Old oil has to be vacuum extracted out of the filler plug. Refill with a API GL5 75 or 85/90 oil. Noisy diffs can be quieted down quite a bit with EP140 or 250 oil.
BODY, PAINT AND CORROSION
Substantially better than earlier cars. Look for corrosion round the rear wheel arches, round the front and rear screens especially underneath the screen rubbers in the bottom corners, bottom of the front wings, sill closing panels and most importantly behind the front shocks on both sides. There's a reinforcing plate where the engine sub frame V mount is bolted to the body rail and some cars have corroded badly here. Corrosion around the same area may also be visible in the engine compartment on the top of the body rail around the heads of the bolts that retain the top of the V mounts. It's an MOT fail and a big welding job. Another area to check is the joint between the rear of the front inner wings and the bulkhead. Body and paintwork is otherwise pretty good however some darker coloured cars suffer from peeling lacquer. Bumper corners are susceptible to damage and bumper mounting brackets can corrode.
Lacquer on the XJ8 is soft and easy to scratch with careless washing Providing you can’t actually feel scratches with a thumbnail and the paint colour underneath is OK it’s possible to restore the bodywork to a very good finish with a through clay, polish and wax. Stripe down body flanks if car has one is hand painted and not always completely straight.
INTERIOR
Always leather with different levels of trim and seat design. Wood trim clips on and is easy to change to different type. Driver’s seat back and steering wheels tend to suffer from wear. Head linings can sag. LWB version has more room in back.
SUSPENSION, TYRES AND BRAKES
X308s are hard on suspension and brakes, listen and feel very carefully for any clonking or knocking over bumps and make sure the car comes to a straight judder-free stop under both light and hard braking. A sharp rattle heard and felt through the steering over bumps combined with a little free play in the steering wheel may be a worn crush joint on the lower steering column.
A clattery rattle from the rear is likely to be failed shocks or shock bushes. X308s with weak rear A frame bushes or rear hub pivots will tend to self steer and wander about under hard acceleration.
Feel round the tyres for uneven wear patterns; any suspension wear or bush failure giving incorrect geometry will cause tyres to feather badly and heavy wear in the inside edges is a symptom of excess negative camber from wishbone bush or ball joint failure. Slight and even feathering is normal on the front tyres.
All Jaguar XJs are very sensitive to wheel and tyre imbalances or damage, typically you'll feel a steering wobble between 50-70MPH and possibly vibration through the seat if there are any tyre problems or buckled wheels. A Hunter Roadforce wheel balance is usually the solution. Incorrect tyre pressures, worn out or cheap budget tyres will severely affect handling and ride. Most X308s exhibit a faint exhaust harmonic around 50 and another one at 65MPH. You might possibly experience a hint of driveline vibration through the body too. Don't expect too much in the way of the legendary Jaguar ride quality either - it's pretty good on touring (black shocks) suspension and 16" wheels but sport suspension cars (green shocks) are stiffer and have a thicker front anti roll bar and one on the rear too which when combined with larger diameter wheels and lower profile tyres gives a hard crashy ride on poor roads. CATS suspension may be fitted as an option to any X308. CATS has electronically controlled valves in the shocks to vary the damping rates depending on driving style. Identify CATS by the presence of a plastic cover over the top of the front shock absorber with a lead going into it.
ELECTRICIAL/ OBD2 DIAGNOSTICS
Electrical systems are generally pretty robust. As with any old car you might have the odd problem so check absolutely everything works. Even the earliest X308 is OBD2 compliant and a £20 code reader plugged into the socket in the driver’s footwell will help diagnosis a lot. Electric aerials are vunerable, there are occasional O2 sensor, airflow meter and brake light switch failures.
XJ’s need a strong battery to avoid random error messages appearing on start up. If you get one – usually TRAC FAIL – the battery is on its way out or needs several days on a trickle charge to bring it back up to full capacity.
BUYING AND LIVING WITH AN XJ
Generally the 1997-2002 XJ8 is a strong car and capable of big mileages if maintained well and not abused or neglected. It's mostly easy enough to DIY and parts are reasonable and in good supply from several independents and the Jaguar Classic Parts scheme. Expect around 26/8 MPG on the motorway, 20/4 round town and mid teens or less if you nail it everywhere. Tyres are around £100/120 a corner in 16" diameter size. The 3.2 is quick enough (0-60 is 8s) the 4.0 is much rarer and does the same in 7.0.
Shortening intervals between servicing and using a genuine fully synthetic oil is worthwhile. It’ll help protect the timing chains and give improved fuel economy. A through rust proofing and full fluid change is a benefit too if you want to preserve the car. Official servicing is annual or 10000 miles. 70k service is the expensive one on n/a cars.
One last thing. A software fault means you should never start an XJ8 from cold and then switch off again straightaway and before allowing the temp gauge to move off the cold section of the scale. Chances are it’ll flood when you next start and wash all the oil of the bores and it’s a right PITA to get it running again.
Thanks Steve, an extremely useful and detailed guide.
My 10 year old is a girl and the 7 year old a boy, so I'm hoping I'll have a few years before they are too tall to fit. I do have a company Volvo estate anyway, so they can go in that while I waft in the Jag.
Found out a bit more info about the car, 2001 XKR, one owner, fsh, 63000 miles, apparently very nice car in dark blue. I do have a couple of pics, but getting them from a text message on my phone onto here may take some time....
My 10 year old is a girl and the 7 year old a boy, so I'm hoping I'll have a few years before they are too tall to fit. I do have a company Volvo estate anyway, so they can go in that while I waft in the Jag.
Found out a bit more info about the car, 2001 XKR, one owner, fsh, 63000 miles, apparently very nice car in dark blue. I do have a couple of pics, but getting them from a text message on my phone onto here may take some time....
That looks rather 
Check wheels for kerbing, headlights for condensation and front bumper for stone chips and scuffs. Tyres will be a fortune so factor any replacements into the price. Gearbox oil change ought to go on the to do list as well.
Check out the cost of road tax on a Y reg too. The last month of Y plated cars falls into the higher emissions based VED bracket. Don't ask me how I know this I just do...
If it's a really good one and you like it don't loose the deal over a couple of hundred quid. Get it bought as you'll probably take a long long time to find another.
Check wheels for kerbing, headlights for condensation and front bumper for stone chips and scuffs. Tyres will be a fortune so factor any replacements into the price. Gearbox oil change ought to go on the to do list as well.
Check out the cost of road tax on a Y reg too. The last month of Y plated cars falls into the higher emissions based VED bracket. Don't ask me how I know this I just do...
If it's a really good one and you like it don't loose the deal over a couple of hundred quid. Get it bought as you'll probably take a long long time to find another.
I have an early XK8 which had the MK2 tensioners done by jaguar as it would have had the MK1's originally. I have just changed them myself to the 3rd Generation metal bodied ones for peace of mind, the old ones looked in great shape but as has been mentioned, they die silently. If you are not up to doing them yourself, an independent Jag specialist will charge £1,000 to £1,200 to do the job and a main dealer probably about double that.
Gearbox's are allegedly sealed for life requiring no maintenance but it's universally accepted that an oil change is good practice to extend the life. Should cost around £100 at an independant.
If I was looking at an XK8 or an R then after looking for the obvious signs of rust, I would want to know if it's had the tensioners done and the gearbox done and has it got stainless pipes as the standard system is way too quiet.. way too quiet, I said that twice coz it's that much too quiet.
Adamesh do rear box replacement sections in stainless for a couple of hundred that help a lot. On the XKR you can also get a pulley replacement to speed up the blower for another 30 or 40 bhp quite cheaply.
Overall, I enjoy driving mine greatly, a class car for hatchback money. Don't worry about the kids ( I have two and they struggle to fit in) sometimes you just have to go off out without them
Gearbox's are allegedly sealed for life requiring no maintenance but it's universally accepted that an oil change is good practice to extend the life. Should cost around £100 at an independant.
If I was looking at an XK8 or an R then after looking for the obvious signs of rust, I would want to know if it's had the tensioners done and the gearbox done and has it got stainless pipes as the standard system is way too quiet.. way too quiet, I said that twice coz it's that much too quiet.
Adamesh do rear box replacement sections in stainless for a couple of hundred that help a lot. On the XKR you can also get a pulley replacement to speed up the blower for another 30 or 40 bhp quite cheaply.
Overall, I enjoy driving mine greatly, a class car for hatchback money. Don't worry about the kids ( I have two and they struggle to fit in) sometimes you just have to go off out without them
Thanks for the replies. Apparently it does need a couple of tyres, but he's happy to knock off the cost of them, which is good.
It definitely has a full Jag history, so I would hope that all the service issues have been sorted, but will give the dealer a call to check on Monday. I have already been looking at exhausts, primarily from eapj in Derby, but also read about a place in Leeds that fabricate them for about half the price. The Adamesh options do look nice, but are rather expensive.
I haven't just started looking at these, by the way, I've wanted a supercharged v8 Jag since I bought an x300 xjr for my brother and ran it for a couple of weeks before handing it over. I also drove it from the south of France back to Cambridgeshire to sell it for him once he'd finished with it, that was a memorable drive, particularly in the deluge near Mont Blanc. It wasn't until I got home that I realised the rear tyres were utterly bald on the inside 50%, which explained a lot. The Italian police like Jags though, which is lucky.
It definitely has a full Jag history, so I would hope that all the service issues have been sorted, but will give the dealer a call to check on Monday. I have already been looking at exhausts, primarily from eapj in Derby, but also read about a place in Leeds that fabricate them for about half the price. The Adamesh options do look nice, but are rather expensive.
I haven't just started looking at these, by the way, I've wanted a supercharged v8 Jag since I bought an x300 xjr for my brother and ran it for a couple of weeks before handing it over. I also drove it from the south of France back to Cambridgeshire to sell it for him once he'd finished with it, that was a memorable drive, particularly in the deluge near Mont Blanc. It wasn't until I got home that I realised the rear tyres were utterly bald on the inside 50%, which explained a lot. The Italian police like Jags though, which is lucky.
callahan said:
It definitely has a full Jag history, so I would hope that all the service issues have been sorted
Mine has a full main dealer history but they only do cam chain tensioners if asked and usually because the owner heard a rattle, 2nd generation tensioners don't rattle. No way of knowing what you have without taking a cam cover off, mine had a main dealer cam chain job done but only to 2nd gen. Not a big deal to do yourself if you are handy with the spanners and worth the peace of mind.Anyway, the car looks nice, one of the best colours imho, every drive brings a smile. My only regret in buying my XK8 was that I didn't have the extra cash to go for an XKR.... enjoy!
I've just sold my 2005 xkr convertible and it have to say the children will hate to go far in it!
Mine are the same age and if we all went out in it, my Wifet had to drive as there was zero leg room behind the drivers seat. I'm only average height but needed the seat all the way back and there's not much travel.
If there are recaro's fitted it's even worse as they're a bit thicker.
Don't let this put you off though, they're great cars
Mine are the same age and if we all went out in it, my Wifet had to drive as there was zero leg room behind the drivers seat. I'm only average height but needed the seat all the way back and there's not much travel.
If there are recaro's fitted it's even worse as they're a bit thicker.
Don't let this put you off though, they're great cars
andyt1320 said:
I have an early XK8 which had the MK2 tensioners done by jaguar as it would have had the MK1's originally. I have just changed them myself to the 3rd Generation metal bodied ones for peace of mind, the old ones looked in great shape but as has been mentioned, they die silently. If you are not up to doing them yourself, an independent Jag specialist will charge £1,000 to £1,200 to do the job and a main dealer probably about double that.
Gearbox's are allegedly sealed for life requiring no maintenance but it's universally accepted that an oil change is good practice to extend the life. Should cost around £100 at an independant.
If I was looking at an XK8 or an R then after looking for the obvious signs of rust, I would want to know if it's had the tensioners done and the gearbox done and has it got stainless pipes as the standard system is way too quiet.. way too quiet, I said that twice coz it's that much too quiet.
Adamesh do rear box replacement sections in stainless for a couple of hundred that help a lot. On the XKR you can also get a pulley replacement to speed up the blower for another 30 or 40 bhp quite cheaply.
Overall, I enjoy driving mine greatly, a class car for hatchback money. Don't worry about the kids ( I have two and they struggle to fit in) sometimes you just have to go off out without them
Labour for changing the secondary tensioners will be a absolute maximum of three hours labour and parts are around £75 so your price of £1000 is way out. That's more likely to be the cost of a full upper and lower tensioner and chain change as well as all new slippers and guides. Jaguar issued a TSB eary on in the life of the V8 advising tensioners should be changed only if the customer complained of start up rattle. At the time you may have had either another pair of 1st gen ones fitted or later on a pair of second gen ones. By the time you've paid overinflated prices for oil, bought a gasket and filter and added labour and VAT the price for a gearbox oil change will be closer to £200Gearbox's are allegedly sealed for life requiring no maintenance but it's universally accepted that an oil change is good practice to extend the life. Should cost around £100 at an independant.
If I was looking at an XK8 or an R then after looking for the obvious signs of rust, I would want to know if it's had the tensioners done and the gearbox done and has it got stainless pipes as the standard system is way too quiet.. way too quiet, I said that twice coz it's that much too quiet.
Adamesh do rear box replacement sections in stainless for a couple of hundred that help a lot. On the XKR you can also get a pulley replacement to speed up the blower for another 30 or 40 bhp quite cheaply.
Overall, I enjoy driving mine greatly, a class car for hatchback money. Don't worry about the kids ( I have two and they struggle to fit in) sometimes you just have to go off out without them
I've written DIY guides for both jobs - neither are beyond the ability of a reasonably competent home mechanic.
Best if the OP has a look by removing the RH cam cover to see what's fitted and if there is any evidence of cracks in the body or wear or bits missing from the contact pad. Jaguar Spares North East list a set of metal bodied secondary tensioners and the necessary bolts on eBay for £75.
Yep the price quoted was for the full job, all chains guides and tensioners based on actual quotes I got for doing the job so not way off at all, I wouldn't trust ebay parts in such a sensitive area so I used genuine Jaguar tensioners and replacement bolts total cost £189 and did the work myself as my car had already had gen 2 tensioners and all guides and chains changed. My advice still stands, well worth checking if they are done, if not whip the cover off and change them for the latest metal bodied versions. Plastic gen 2 tensioners have been known to fail without any tell tale noises so peace of mind to have the latest.
Thanks for all the replies, there is a lot to think about and look for. From the little reading I have done, it isn't straightforward to check the timing tensioner, it sounds like there is quite a lot to remove before you can see them. Not something you can easily do on someone's driveway!
Incidentally, it was registered in early March 2001 so should be on the cheaper tax.
Regarding the rear seats, aren't they a bit bigger in the coupe than the convertible? I am a bit worried that I might jump at it then regret it in a few months and have to change again. Mind you, at this price I shouldn't lose too much...
Incidentally, it was registered in early March 2001 so should be on the cheaper tax.
Regarding the rear seats, aren't they a bit bigger in the coupe than the convertible? I am a bit worried that I might jump at it then regret it in a few months and have to change again. Mind you, at this price I shouldn't lose too much...
andyt1320 said:
Yep the price quoted was for the full job, all chains guides and tensioners based on actual quotes I got for doing the job so not way off at all, I wouldn't trust ebay parts in such a sensitive area so I used genuine Jaguar tensioners and replacement bolts total cost £189 and did the work myself as my car had already had gen 2 tensioners and all guides and chains changed. My advice still stands, well worth checking if they are done, if not whip the cover off and change them for the latest metal bodied versions. Plastic gen 2 tensioners have been known to fail without any tell tale noises so peace of mind to have the latest.
FYI the tensioners and bolt set supplied via ebay for £75 are genuine Jaguar ones. It's up to you where you source your parts from and how much you choose to pay but personally I always shop around and never pay any more than I have to.callahan said:
Thanks for all the replies, there is a lot to think about and look for. From the little reading I have done, it isn't straightforward to check the timing tensioner, it sounds like there is quite a lot to remove before you can see them. Not something you can easily do on someone's driveway!
Incidentally, it was registered in early March 2001 so should be on the cheaper tax.
Regarding the rear seats, aren't they a bit bigger in the coupe than the convertible? I am a bit worried that I might jump at it then regret it in a few months and have to change again. Mind you, at this price I shouldn't lose too much...
I'd suggest you don't let the tensioner issue become a deal breaker. It's easy enough to check at your leisure and easy and cheap enough to change them if you need to. They may already have been done. The RH cam cover comes off with just a few bolts and once off the secondary tensioner is clearly visible. The LH one is a PITA as you have to drill out a section of the dipstick tube to get clearance off its mounting stud.Incidentally, it was registered in early March 2001 so should be on the cheaper tax.
Regarding the rear seats, aren't they a bit bigger in the coupe than the convertible? I am a bit worried that I might jump at it then regret it in a few months and have to change again. Mind you, at this price I shouldn't lose too much...
My XJ8 was registered 28 March 2001 and falls into the higher VED bracket. IIRC the switch from engine capacity to emissions for VED stated on the first of the month.
Jaguar steve said:
I'd suggest you don't let the tensioner issue become a deal breaker. It's easy enough to check at your leisure and easy and cheap enough to change them if you need to. They may already have been done. The RH cam cover comes off with just a few bolts and once off the secondary tensioner is clearly visible. The LH one is a PITA as you have to drill out a section of the dipstick tube to get clearance off its mounting stud.
My XJ8 was registered 28 March 2001 and falls into the higher VED bracket. IIRC the switch from engine capacity to emissions for VED stated on the first of the month.
Interesting, I did a quick dvla check and it came up as £285 a year, first registered 2/3/01....My XJ8 was registered 28 March 2001 and falls into the higher VED bracket. IIRC the switch from engine capacity to emissions for VED stated on the first of the month.
callahan said:
Jaguar steve said:
I'd suggest you don't let the tensioner issue become a deal breaker. It's easy enough to check at your leisure and easy and cheap enough to change them if you need to. They may already have been done. The RH cam cover comes off with just a few bolts and once off the secondary tensioner is clearly visible. The LH one is a PITA as you have to drill out a section of the dipstick tube to get clearance off its mounting stud.
My XJ8 was registered 28 March 2001 and falls into the higher VED bracket. IIRC the switch from engine capacity to emissions for VED stated on the first of the month.
Interesting, I did a quick dvla check and it came up as £285 a year, first registered 2/3/01....My XJ8 was registered 28 March 2001 and falls into the higher VED bracket. IIRC the switch from engine capacity to emissions for VED stated on the first of the month.
https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-tax-rate-tables
Super Slo Mo said:
That is the higher rate tax band for the year. Anything pre-2006 at the upper end of the emissions bracket is currently £285.
https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-tax-rate-tables
I see, I always thought 285 was the cheapest rate as I've paid that on my last few cars, including my current 2003 scoobie. At least it isn't nearly 500...https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-tax-rate-tables
callahan said:
Super Slo Mo said:
That is the higher rate tax band for the year. Anything pre-2006 at the upper end of the emissions bracket is currently £285.
https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-tax-rate-tables
I see, I always thought 285 was the cheapest rate as I've paid that on my last few cars, including my current 2003 scoobie. At least it isn't nearly 500...https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-tax-rate-tables
Chunch of thieving Bunts IMO
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