Changing gearbox oil.
Discussion
Hi, I'm planning on changing the gearbox oil in my 2001 XJ 3.2. I have a good write up telling me how, but by doing it manually can I be sure I'm getting all the old oil out of the torque convertor? I am wondering if it would be better just to book it into an auto gearbox specialist to have them change it. They may have some way of drawing the new oil all the way through the box/torque convertor to ensure a full and complete oil change. Has anyone changed their oil by themselves or in a specialist recently??
I had considered using my regular indy to change the oil in my 540 but herecloned he'd have to do it 3 times to ensure all the oil was changed. Considering the price of the oil I decided that was not a sensible option.
I was going to then take it to an auto transmission specialst who has the equipment to suck the oil out of the torque converter, but then I sold the car so didn't bother.
Bottom line, let an expert do it. To fiddly to do yourself unless you have all the gear and some idea.
I was going to then take it to an auto transmission specialst who has the equipment to suck the oil out of the torque converter, but then I sold the car so didn't bother.
Bottom line, let an expert do it. To fiddly to do yourself unless you have all the gear and some idea.
It's virtually impossible to get all the old oil out.Even a specalist transmission service disconnecting the oil cooler pipes and flushing through the entire system is no gaurantee it'll all come out, and there's a risk of fracturing the pipe unions if they have partially siezed.
I'd be content changing the oil and filter at around 30/40k intervals. Doing so should keep the transmission clean enough to avoid failure due to lube oil breakdown.
It's easy enough to do - the only challenge is getting the final level correct within the two or three mins you have before the oil starts to expand as it heats up. Ideally you need a high flow rate pump - I use a modified washing machine drain pump - and enough time to check the level twice, once when you do the first final fill and again when it's cooled right down.
I cahnged mine when I bought the car at 62k and again at around 88k. The second change was fairly dirty, so it's well worth doing more than once.
TR Achem are still the cheapest supplier of the correct Esso oil.
I'd be content changing the oil and filter at around 30/40k intervals. Doing so should keep the transmission clean enough to avoid failure due to lube oil breakdown.
It's easy enough to do - the only challenge is getting the final level correct within the two or three mins you have before the oil starts to expand as it heats up. Ideally you need a high flow rate pump - I use a modified washing machine drain pump - and enough time to check the level twice, once when you do the first final fill and again when it's cooled right down.
I cahnged mine when I bought the car at 62k and again at around 88k. The second change was fairly dirty, so it's well worth doing more than once.
TR Achem are still the cheapest supplier of the correct Esso oil.
Ok so I've had the car in to the auto gearbox specialist for a service/oil change. The jerk when taking up drive unfortunately!! The guy says the box needs to come out to repair the torque convertor and he reckons from experience that it will have a cracked drum?? £1700 if they remove and refit the gearbox, £1200 if I take the box out and refit it.
Has anyone had a similar experience?? I'm unsure what to do. I'm capable of removing the gearbox, but don't have the time really, and I'm sure the cooler pipes will burst upon removal adding to the cost, and probably another couple of little bits and pieces!!! I paid £3500 for the car just over a year ago, I was offered £2000 on www.webuyanycar.com earlier, I'm serously thinking about taking it and moving on. But then there's a couple of second hand gearboxes for arouond £350-500, do I take a chance with one of these??? I was hoping never to be in this situation with the car, but here I am!!
Has anyone had a similar experience?? I'm unsure what to do. I'm capable of removing the gearbox, but don't have the time really, and I'm sure the cooler pipes will burst upon removal adding to the cost, and probably another couple of little bits and pieces!!! I paid £3500 for the car just over a year ago, I was offered £2000 on www.webuyanycar.com earlier, I'm serously thinking about taking it and moving on. But then there's a couple of second hand gearboxes for arouond £350-500, do I take a chance with one of these??? I was hoping never to be in this situation with the car, but here I am!!
Time for some pros and cons then. Personally I'd not even consider a s/h box - these ZF 'boxes are prone to failure either through failed lubrication or the drum containing the clutch pack splitting. There's no guarantee with any used 'box that you won't just be buying and fitting the same problem back in.
Economicaly it's just silly spending so much on a car that's worth so little in my view so it's time to disregard pound notes and decide what the car's really worth to you. On the one hand if it's a good example then you'll need to decide if you really want to take a long term view and keep it and if you do then bite the bullet and fit a properly reconditioned 'box - or better still pay sombody else to do it and get a warranty. You'll need to fork out on having the oil cooler flushed through too or else if there's any particles in the pipes they will just wreck the new 'box. Chances are the labour bill will get bigger due to the hassle of removing rusted and siezed fittings and exhaust sections too.
On the other hand, there's plenty of very reasonably priced XJ8s about now. Depending on what you can find for sale - assuming you actually want another one - it might be the time to cut your losses and take the couple of grand you've been offered (if you actually get that much once the car has been properly valued, that is) to put towards a replacement.
Unless your existing car is an exceptional example and you've already spent lots of time and money on getting it right that's what I'd do - bin it and buy another. Harsh maybe, but older or neglected V8 XJ Jaguars will bleed you white unless you make the right choices when buying and maintaining one.
Economicaly it's just silly spending so much on a car that's worth so little in my view so it's time to disregard pound notes and decide what the car's really worth to you. On the one hand if it's a good example then you'll need to decide if you really want to take a long term view and keep it and if you do then bite the bullet and fit a properly reconditioned 'box - or better still pay sombody else to do it and get a warranty. You'll need to fork out on having the oil cooler flushed through too or else if there's any particles in the pipes they will just wreck the new 'box. Chances are the labour bill will get bigger due to the hassle of removing rusted and siezed fittings and exhaust sections too.
On the other hand, there's plenty of very reasonably priced XJ8s about now. Depending on what you can find for sale - assuming you actually want another one - it might be the time to cut your losses and take the couple of grand you've been offered (if you actually get that much once the car has been properly valued, that is) to put towards a replacement.
Unless your existing car is an exceptional example and you've already spent lots of time and money on getting it right that's what I'd do - bin it and buy another. Harsh maybe, but older or neglected V8 XJ Jaguars will bleed you white unless you make the right choices when buying and maintaining one.
Jaguar steve said:
It's easy enough to do - the only challenge is getting the final level correct within the two or three mins you have before the oil starts to expand as it heats up. Ideally you need a high flow rate pump - I use a modified washing machine drain pump - and enough time to check the level twice, once when you do the first final fill and again when it's cooled right down.
I'm intrigued to know how you've modified the washing machine pump Steve? I'm just about to get rid of my old machine and will remove the pump to do just this job! Have done it by hand pump last year, and it's quite awkward!
sparky35uk said:
Jaguar steve said:
It's easy enough to do - the only challenge is getting the final level correct within the two or three mins you have before the oil starts to expand as it heats up. Ideally you need a high flow rate pump - I use a modified washing machine drain pump - and enough time to check the level twice, once when you do the first final fill and again when it's cooled right down.
I'm intrigued to know how you've modified the washing machine pump Steve? I'm just about to get rid of my old machine and will remove the pump to do just this job! Have done it by hand pump last year, and it's quite awkward!
(No idea how to put pics on PH
so it's about time I learnt) Steve
Open an account with a hosting service. I use Photobucket which is as good as any.
http://photobucket.com/
Up load photos to here using the upload button in PB.
Put cursor over the picture you wanr and that picture will then have 4 option boxes beneath and you need to highlight the bottom option IMG Code (it goes blue) then right click, copy and then paste that into your PH message. It will put text into the message with IMG at each end and when you post the message the picture will show.
Jobs a good 'un.
Simples
Open an account with a hosting service. I use Photobucket which is as good as any.
http://photobucket.com/
Up load photos to here using the upload button in PB.
Put cursor over the picture you wanr and that picture will then have 4 option boxes beneath and you need to highlight the bottom option IMG Code (it goes blue) then right click, copy and then paste that into your PH message. It will put text into the message with IMG at each end and when you post the message the picture will show.
Jobs a good 'un.
Simples
....or when you are on the Reply to Topic screen you can use the "Upload an image (beta)" facility that's there just below the row of icons, as long as you have a copy of the pic on your own PC/laptop. Just follow the on screen instructions. It can be a little slow but this always works for me.
R.
R.
sparky35uk said:
Thanks Steve, look forward to pics....have got the pump out ready 
Been trying to save and load pix for the last hour or so 
No idea what I'm doing wrong..actually, closer to the truth is I've got no idea what I'm doing. Baby JS has just got in from work - will get him to help.
And the 'diff oil extractor, made with an old vacuum cleaner.
No idea how that worked - but it did. HTH
Ingeneous stuff 
I can feel a job coming up! It's such a pity northwilts went bust as that is where I got my Esso oil from last time, so still looking around.
Cheapest I've seen so far is from www.lubricants.org at £70.68 for 12 x 1 ltr bottles (+ delivery & vat!)
Still, cheaper than a new box! Thanks for your pics Steve.
I can feel a job coming up! It's such a pity northwilts went bust as that is where I got my Esso oil from last time, so still looking around.
Cheapest I've seen so far is from www.lubricants.org at £70.68 for 12 x 1 ltr bottles (+ delivery & vat!)
Still, cheaper than a new box! Thanks for your pics Steve.
If you're going to make a similar pump I'd try to fit a bigger tank. The pump tended to cavitate when the reseviour was nearly empty and you'll never get the level right if the oil's full of air bubbles. Fitting a rheostat to slow the pumping speed down a bit instead of a simple on / off switch might help too.
You must confirm this with somebody who knows for sure but I believe Esso LT oil is also known as Lifeguard Fluid 5. It's stocked by Puegeot and VW stealers - among others - so It might be worth a few mins on the phone to get prices.
Pretend to be outraged whne you hear how much and see what sort of deal you can do.
You must confirm this with somebody who knows for sure but I believe Esso LT oil is also known as Lifeguard Fluid 5. It's stocked by Puegeot and VW stealers - among others - so It might be worth a few mins on the phone to get prices.
Pretend to be outraged whne you hear how much and see what sort of deal you can do.
Jaguar steve said:
If you're going to make a similar pump I'd try to fit a bigger tank. The pump tended to cavitate when the reseviour was nearly empty and you'll never get the level right if the oil's full of air bubbles. Fitting a rheostat to slow the pumping speed down a bit instead of a simple on / off switch might help too.
You must confirm this with somebody who knows for sure but I believe Esso LT oil is also known as Lifeguard Fluid 5. It's stocked by Puegeot and VW stealers - among others - so It might be worth a few mins on the phone to get prices.
Pretend to be outraged whne you hear how much and see what sort of deal you can do.
Good point about the size of resovoir...will make some mods as you suggest.You must confirm this with somebody who knows for sure but I believe Esso LT oil is also known as Lifeguard Fluid 5. It's stocked by Puegeot and VW stealers - among others - so It might be worth a few mins on the phone to get prices.
Pretend to be outraged whne you hear how much and see what sort of deal you can do.
I've seen you mention this 'Lifeguard Fluid 5' before, and yes it is worth maaking a few calls and will certainly check to see if it's the 'same' as I wouldn't want to use incorrect fluid.
Just need some warmer weather now ..... or a decent sized, warm garage! Too much junk in my garage just now!
Thanks again Steve.
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