I've been offered a cheap S type 3.0 auto

[singlecoil]

I'm interested in it because it's automatic, which is what I require, I could use it for towing a trailer (I need to move kit cars from time to time) and it would be comfortable for the long trips to visit relatives that happen as infrequently as I can get away with.

It's done 120,000, mostly FJSH, though the last 3 services have been done by a local garage

It seems plenty powerful, with no untoward noises, Vreg 1999.

Should I do a compression test (bit tedious to do and the owner might be irritated, she's somebody I know) and are there any other things I should look out for?

Thanks in anticipation

[NormanD]

Do you require an Automatic for towing, I always thought Manuals were better

Anyway you will have plenty of grunt there if required

The engine should still be good at 120K so wouldn't bother upsetting her with a compression test

[singlecoil]

NormanD said:

Do you require an Automatic for towing, I always thought Manuals were better

Anyway you will have plenty of grunt there if required

The engine should still be good at 120K so wouldn't bother upsetting her with a compression test

Don't actually requre an auto for towing, but it does work very well, I have an auto Volvo at the moment and it's so much better than having to mess about with a clutch and a gear lever. It amazes me that people still bother with manual cars at all, even for normal driving, now that modern autos are so good.

[NormanD]

singlecoil said:

NormanD said:

Do you require an Automatic for towing, I always thought Manuals were better

Anyway you will have plenty of grunt there if required

The engine should still be good at 120K so wouldn't bother upsetting her with a compression test

Don't actually requre an auto for towing, but it does work very well, I have an auto Volvo at the moment and it's so much better than having to mess about with a clutch and a gear lever. It amazes me that people still bother with manual cars at all, even for normal driving, now that modern autos are so good.

Talking to the wrong person here

We insisted on getting Manual 3Lt X-Type not an Auto

And I'm looking into converting my XKR to a Manual!!!

[V88Dicky]

singlecoil said:

I'm interested in it because it's automatic, which is what I require, I could use it for towing a trailer (I need to move kit cars from time to time) and it would be comfortable for the long trips to visit relatives that happen as infrequently as I can get away with.

It's done 120,000, mostly FJSH, though the last 3 services have been done by a local garage

It seems plenty powerful, with no untoward noises, Vreg 1999.

Should I do a compression test (bit tedious to do and the owner might be irritated, she's somebody I know) and are there any other things I should look out for?

Thanks in anticipation

The 3.0 V6 in the early S-types is a fairly robust engine, that should be reliable as long as its had regular servicing. The 5 speed auto on these was a weak area and some are prone to failure, but can have an extended life if the supposedly 'sealed for life' gearbox has actually had an oil change at 50k miles or preferrably more frequently.
Check the multitude of electrical gizmos all work, and take the spare wheel out and check for water ingress in the boot, as some of the pre-2004 facelift cars had issues with the area around the rear lights not being properly weatherproofed.
They are a heavy automatic car, so brake discs and pads wear out quicker than you might expect. Budget for changing the pads every 10k miles and the (front) discs every 20k miles.
Other than that, they are nice enough cars that are aging surprisingly well.
HTH

[Tame Technician]

No need to do a compression test, the bores dont have problems on the V6. And it would be a 1.5 hour job you need the inlet manifold off to get the plugs out of one bank.

Gearbox is the weak point, so make sure it doesn't bang into gear or have a big delay from selection to drive off (usuall signs its on it way out)

Front suspention joints can be an issue, if your aloud jack the front up and check for any lift in the bottom ball joints. But as long as the steering isnt vague and the fronts not knocking I would be to worried.

as above make sure no water in the boot, lots of electrics in there thay dont like getting wet.

How cheap is cheap. Seen these go for £1500 at that milage and there is one on auto trader now for under a grand.

[Simpo Two]

Wot he said. I sold mine at 150K miles because the suspension was heading for a big bill. Oh yes, and if mine was anything to go by check for electrical gremlins! But it did drive very well.

Now have a 2.7D and apart from lag at roundabouts and feeling a bit heavy on the turn-in it's brilliant (and 40mpg!)

Edited by Simpo Two on Friday 16th July 21:43