Rebuilding a 4.0l V8...
Discussion
Any advice...
Stripping it down and checking all parts, should be fine, had new timing chain and a rebuild less than 30,000 miles before i bought it.
bought it with an "over heating problem" which i didnt even see once in 600 miles of driving it before i started stripping the car down.
keeping the engine stock, but want to make it bomb proof for track days;
1) new spark plugs/filters (air, oil, fuel) worth changing coil packs or not?
2) new gaskets
3) new water pump (uprated version from Jag)
4) rebuild, clean up, and paint with some nice POR15 paint
5) ?
anything else i should do whilst its in bits? (want to try to avoid dismandling it too much if i can help it...)
We are just talking about the Engine block here...
I have removed the A/C and Power Steering pumps as i wont need them in my Lotus.
Oz.
Stripping it down and checking all parts, should be fine, had new timing chain and a rebuild less than 30,000 miles before i bought it.
bought it with an "over heating problem" which i didnt even see once in 600 miles of driving it before i started stripping the car down.
keeping the engine stock, but want to make it bomb proof for track days;
1) new spark plugs/filters (air, oil, fuel) worth changing coil packs or not?
2) new gaskets
3) new water pump (uprated version from Jag)
4) rebuild, clean up, and paint with some nice POR15 paint
5) ?
anything else i should do whilst its in bits? (want to try to avoid dismandling it too much if i can help it...)
We are just talking about the Engine block here...
I have removed the A/C and Power Steering pumps as i wont need them in my Lotus.
Oz.
OzzyUk said:
keeping the engine stock, but want to make it bomb proof for track days;
1) new spark plugs/filters (air, oil, fuel) worth changing coil packs or not?
2) new gaskets
3) new water pump (uprated version from Jag)
4) rebuild, clean up, and paint with some nice POR15 paint
5) ?
The V8 engine is already bomb proof, it will take well over 750 horses1) new spark plugs/filters (air, oil, fuel) worth changing coil packs or not?
2) new gaskets
3) new water pump (uprated version from Jag)
4) rebuild, clean up, and paint with some nice POR15 paint
5) ?
You say the chains have been changed, it's the tensioners that were the problem, has it got the latest all mettal ones, if not change them
Item 1. If the coils are working or not, so if working use them
thanks, it will be basically just a track car, so looking at adding a coolant pre-heater (HotFrog or similar to pre-heat the coolant, as they are only £100) and will be using fully synthetic oils, and Shell V-Power only...
Tensioner on the belt is all metal, not sure about the internal one on the chain, will check that, probably replace it regardless. Car was running beautifully when it was in the S-Type (10 weeks ago before i started breaking the car).
Had an engine rebuild for head gasket failure (recipt for £5500), and new gearbox (recipt for £1800) 30,000 miles ago (in 2007).
Thanks
Oz.
Tensioner on the belt is all metal, not sure about the internal one on the chain, will check that, probably replace it regardless. Car was running beautifully when it was in the S-Type (10 weeks ago before i started breaking the car).
Had an engine rebuild for head gasket failure (recipt for £5500), and new gearbox (recipt for £1800) 30,000 miles ago (in 2007).
Thanks
Oz.
OzzyUk said:
I am 
what is it? and how much do you want for it?
Thanks
Oz.
It is the original Jaguar set-up for the Canadian market, I have one on my car, handy last week!!what is it? and how much do you want for it?
Thanks
Oz.
It fits in the block as the picture below just under the rear exhaust outlet, comes with the correct leads to a socket,
I've placed that under the bonnet and then the fly lead included to plug into the household mains. Say £95 compleat
Edited by NormanD on Monday 13th December 15:08
OzzyUk said:
How much does it weight?
im pretty tight on space and my 900kg budget...
the HotFrog is £95 plus £5 delivery new on ebay, and is light weight plastic, with an electric heating element, with a standard kettle lead fitment.
could you post a pic of said device?
many thanks
Oz
0.9Kg thats the element that bolts into the block and the cable that attaches to itim pretty tight on space and my 900kg budget...
the HotFrog is £95 plus £5 delivery new on ebay, and is light weight plastic, with an electric heating element, with a standard kettle lead fitment.
could you post a pic of said device?
many thanks
Oz
Sorry, some reason I can't load new picturs to my PhotoBucket at the moment
PM/email your eMail address and I'll send one that way
NormanD
I am using an Emerald M3D ECU.
i managed to get a 2nd hand (but never used) one for £500 from Seloc
Also bought a 2nd hand one from an Elise Trophy Car to go into my wifes MGF...
im all emerald'd up!
Emerald did XKRacer's car for him, so they know what they are doing with the Jag lump (at least roughly, not sure if his was a 4.0 or a 4.2).
i managed to get a 2nd hand (but never used) one for £500 from Seloc
Also bought a 2nd hand one from an Elise Trophy Car to go into my wifes MGF...
im all emerald'd up!
Emerald did XKRacer's car for him, so they know what they are doing with the Jag lump (at least roughly, not sure if his was a 4.0 or a 4.2).
Sorry Norm the 4l itre isn`t bomb proof, Most bottom ends I `ve stripped are knackered, due to s
te oil.Valve Guides, cranks, ends mains and rings all wear, just like any other engine.The bottom end graded in 10ths of a thou, which means you have to quote the engine number to purchase a kit.It`s dear too. There is a sequence to tightening the ladder which holds the crank otherwise kaput.The block will need to be thoroughly cleaned, immersed in a dip tank.You need to look at the rods for sizeing especially if its a miler
Emerald are a good company, Dave is a good guy but unless you use something expensive, like Motec for example, you wont be able to get the best out of the engine, that is if it will run at all. I tried coil over plug before with Omex. The technology to run coils doesn`t exist with the lower market stuff.I tried coils with set up on a baby elan. Bloody nightmare and we end up doing the development work.I`ve had very little trouble with leads and coil packs though.
te oil.Valve Guides, cranks, ends mains and rings all wear, just like any other engine.The bottom end graded in 10ths of a thou, which means you have to quote the engine number to purchase a kit.It`s dear too. There is a sequence to tightening the ladder which holds the crank otherwise kaput.The block will need to be thoroughly cleaned, immersed in a dip tank.You need to look at the rods for sizeing especially if its a miler Emerald are a good company, Dave is a good guy but unless you use something expensive, like Motec for example, you wont be able to get the best out of the engine, that is if it will run at all. I tried coil over plug before with Omex. The technology to run coils doesn`t exist with the lower market stuff.I tried coils with set up on a baby elan. Bloody nightmare and we end up doing the development work.I`ve had very little trouble with leads and coil packs though.
Thanks for the update...
the engine i have had a new bottom end 30,000 miles ago for exactly this reason (at a jag specialist) have a recipt for just over £5500 for that!
im pretty confident once the oils drained and fully synthetic is put back in, it will be fine... the car was driving beautifully when i collected it.
will be only running the car on V-Power so that should help if it has the nikasil liners...
what is the recomended oil for the 4.0l V8 (non-supercharged)...
As usual pistonheads is proving its wealth of knowledge!
Thanks all!
Oz.
the engine i have had a new bottom end 30,000 miles ago for exactly this reason (at a jag specialist) have a recipt for just over £5500 for that!
im pretty confident once the oils drained and fully synthetic is put back in, it will be fine... the car was driving beautifully when i collected it.
will be only running the car on V-Power so that should help if it has the nikasil liners...
what is the recomended oil for the 4.0l V8 (non-supercharged)...
As usual pistonheads is proving its wealth of knowledge!
Thanks all!
Oz.
I dont run coils on mine, I have leads and just 2 coil packs, mine is a 4.0, you will also have to do this with the emerald. Not too expensive and if you have a word with magnecor they will probably still have the type of boots I used which fitted perfectly (I beleive they were vauxhall)and lengths which were all good.
Certain bit of info I forgot about.....my bad
Certain bit of info I forgot about.....my bad
Edited by XKRacer on Friday 17th December 08:42
Gorgeous... but how much? /winces...
my budget of the full conversion of £2000 would probably be blown just on that!
so far spend £1100 on donor car, which i have broken, and got back just over £1300, and spent £500 on emerald, so at the moment i have used £300 of my £2000 budget...
Gearbox rebuild is going to cost me just under £400, so thats £700, so i still have £1300 left of the budget to check and rebuild the engine, replace hoses with silicon versions, sort the fuel system (taking it off the S-Type for the most part), sort the throttle body issue (want a single cable based throttle body), custom engine mounts and get a custom bell housing made.
should be do-able, as theres still about £500 of parts on the Jag to sell off too
Oz
my budget of the full conversion of £2000 would probably be blown just on that!
so far spend £1100 on donor car, which i have broken, and got back just over £1300, and spent £500 on emerald, so at the moment i have used £300 of my £2000 budget...
Gearbox rebuild is going to cost me just under £400, so thats £700, so i still have £1300 left of the budget to check and rebuild the engine, replace hoses with silicon versions, sort the fuel system (taking it off the S-Type for the most part), sort the throttle body issue (want a single cable based throttle body), custom engine mounts and get a custom bell housing made.
should be do-able, as theres still about £500 of parts on the Jag to sell off too
Oz
Edited by OzzyUk on Saturday 18th December 13:52
Going the throttle body route is not cheap, where do you get a pair of inlet manifolds for starters?
That was easy for me, I made them myself, cost worked out about £1200 but for someone who wanted that set up to plug n play you would be looking at double that amount and then some.
I also no longer have a water pump or thermostat but a Davies Craig with a digital controller (about £300).
Like has been said before I dont have coil packs but Magnecor leads they cost about £120
I have not done anything to the engine internals, didn't see much point as they already are pretty well made, all I did was the usual timing chain tensioners, guides etc.
No Cats just by pass pipes which the lambda sensors plug into in the same position as the original, made wiring simple.
Gearbox is a T56 with a twin plate semi organic clutch, quite vicious but then again it is a track car!
The Emerald is good in the sense you can have 3 switchable maps and do full throttle gear changes, I beleive I have the manual on PDF if you don't have one
That was easy for me, I made them myself, cost worked out about £1200 but for someone who wanted that set up to plug n play you would be looking at double that amount and then some.
I also no longer have a water pump or thermostat but a Davies Craig with a digital controller (about £300).
Like has been said before I dont have coil packs but Magnecor leads they cost about £120
I have not done anything to the engine internals, didn't see much point as they already are pretty well made, all I did was the usual timing chain tensioners, guides etc.
No Cats just by pass pipes which the lambda sensors plug into in the same position as the original, made wiring simple.
Gearbox is a T56 with a twin plate semi organic clutch, quite vicious but then again it is a track car!
The Emerald is good in the sense you can have 3 switchable maps and do full throttle gear changes, I beleive I have the manual on PDF if you don't have one
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