Possible XJIII HE V12 purchase-a bit of advice requested
Discussion
Morning chaps,
Following on from SOTW last week, I had the urge over the weekend for one of these. Probably the last chance to have one for a while as I will be going overseas after the Summer and probably won't be back for a few years (it may be a car to export too but that question is for later).
I have come across a car that on the face of things seems like a good one. 1985 1 owner with under 50K miles and a huge service file. There is a little bubbling on a couple of panels but I have access to a body shop at work so nothing too disaterous. My question is twofold, firstly is a little exterior rust likely to indicate a problem where you can't see or is fairly normal to get a bit of bubbling? Secondly, would anyone be kind enough to give me a short list of issues to look out for-obviously the car is 26 years old so I'm not expecting a showroom car-but anything that would make the car a complete no? Minor things I'm not too worried about but if I can ask the right questions regarding mechanicals etc then it will possibly save a wasted trip. The car will need repatriating from France. The problem being, even if it was a bag of nails, I would probably just buy it after listening to the V12
the car itself isn't particularly expensive but (other than fuel) I want to try and cut down the risk of a getting a potential boat anchor.
Thanks in advance!
Following on from SOTW last week, I had the urge over the weekend for one of these. Probably the last chance to have one for a while as I will be going overseas after the Summer and probably won't be back for a few years (it may be a car to export too but that question is for later).
I have come across a car that on the face of things seems like a good one. 1985 1 owner with under 50K miles and a huge service file. There is a little bubbling on a couple of panels but I have access to a body shop at work so nothing too disaterous. My question is twofold, firstly is a little exterior rust likely to indicate a problem where you can't see or is fairly normal to get a bit of bubbling? Secondly, would anyone be kind enough to give me a short list of issues to look out for-obviously the car is 26 years old so I'm not expecting a showroom car-but anything that would make the car a complete no? Minor things I'm not too worried about but if I can ask the right questions regarding mechanicals etc then it will possibly save a wasted trip. The car will need repatriating from France. The problem being, even if it was a bag of nails, I would probably just buy it after listening to the V12
the car itself isn't particularly expensive but (other than fuel) I want to try and cut down the risk of a getting a potential boat anchor.Thanks in advance!
best advice I can give is to look here http://forums.jag-lovers.org/index.php3?zx=SdAHyxP...
Cecil said:
best advice I can give is to look here http://forums.jag-lovers.org/index.php3?zx=SdAHyxP...
Thank you Cecil. I had a brief look at Jag-lovers yesterday. I suppose I was trying to get other opinions as to why I shouldn't rather than why I should, if you get my drift? Having read a bit more today, I am coming to the conclusion that physical mechanics, whilst complicated, are quite straightforward. A large Meccano set, if you will. So, I am off to visit the Jagwaftness on Monday (assuming I can get the ferries I need) and see for myself. An open request comes next really, does any one who knows the foibles of these cars want a day out? It will be a bit boring etc. on the ferry there and back but I can promise some nice machinery to look at when we get there and a decent lunch too.having owed several XJ12's and Daimler Double Six's of this vintage, if the price is right, buy it.
As soon as you get it, change oil and more imprtantly the coolant...heat is the enemy of these cars and with a car with such low mileage you can be assured that the bottom of the rad will be silted up.
If you can go to the expense of a new set of plugs do so and do the dizzy cap, rotor arm and HT leads while you've got the fuel rail off.
Bodywise they're shocking...they all go around the front/rear screens and the screens themselves are bonded (glued) rather than sitting in a rubber so is a specialist job to take out/replace. Front wings rot around the headlamps and where they meet the sills. Sills themselves rot from the inside out as do the rear arches.
Electrics are crap...something won't work one day, will the next etc etc.
Headlinings sag and wood veneer cracks as the air con fails and you end up with a damp car.
Having said all that, there's nothing like the 80's Jag experience IMHO and once you've driven it you'll be smitten. Don't expect hot hatch perfromance as they're not FAST, but they do handle remarkably for a big car and glide...a true smooth cruiser.
Go for it! What could possibly go wrong??? ;-)
As soon as you get it, change oil and more imprtantly the coolant...heat is the enemy of these cars and with a car with such low mileage you can be assured that the bottom of the rad will be silted up.
If you can go to the expense of a new set of plugs do so and do the dizzy cap, rotor arm and HT leads while you've got the fuel rail off.
Bodywise they're shocking...they all go around the front/rear screens and the screens themselves are bonded (glued) rather than sitting in a rubber so is a specialist job to take out/replace. Front wings rot around the headlamps and where they meet the sills. Sills themselves rot from the inside out as do the rear arches.
Electrics are crap...something won't work one day, will the next etc etc.
Headlinings sag and wood veneer cracks as the air con fails and you end up with a damp car.
Having said all that, there's nothing like the 80's Jag experience IMHO and once you've driven it you'll be smitten. Don't expect hot hatch perfromance as they're not FAST, but they do handle remarkably for a big car and glide...a true smooth cruiser.
Go for it! What could possibly go wrong??? ;-)
biglump said:
Bodywise they're shocking...they all go around the front/rear screens and the screens themselves are bonded (glued) rather than sitting in a rubber so is a specialist job to take out/replace.
This is the main route for water to get into things in the series 3. Once it gets in, floors, sill, radius arm mounts are all fair game for the rust bug.The company were rather stingy with the glue/sealer when they fitted the windscreens, so behind the plactic infils on the screen surrounds there is a rather large gap. Water puddles at the bottom corners, rotting out the structure. Early signs of this are small patches of staining running away from the lower corners.
If it hasn't already gone, it is possible to inject a good load more sealer into the gap to prevent things, but you have to be sure it's dry in there before you do it. Replace the plastic screen surrounds if they start to shrink or crack and pull away from the chrome finisher.
More things to look for -
The engine... just be sure its antifreeze is at a good level, and make sure the distributor's mechanical advance isn't seized. Start it from cold and make sure it behaves as it warms up as the Auxiliary Air Valve can play up as they get older making it surge.
Electrics... Headlights are a pain as each light has it's own fuse. The fusebox terminals corrode. You will get used to using emery cloth and a smidge of copper grease to keep them behaving. The twin horns are located right at the front under the bumper and collect road dirt and spray like air scoops; nine out of ten times one works one won't. Inside, the blower fans usually have a speed they don't like (or just don't work at all) and the hazard warning light switch is fragile.
Other stuff... check all four tyres for wear, including the spare. Some owners try to mask wishbone bushes perishing by swapping tyres around. This tends to happen more on the V12 as they're heavier at the front. While you're in the boot make sure the toolcase is there, strapped to the right hand side, and the jack in its bag to the left.
If it has the electric sunroof, make sure it operates all the way back, that the drains are unblocked,and that the roofskin isn't bubbled under the lip at the back. Check the securing screws at the front aren't corroded, as at anything over 130mph it makes an awful bang and a mess when it departs...
Regards,
Rich
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