Titanium wheel nuts on F-Type R
Discussion
My nephew has an F-Type V8R. Owned for about a year.
He has never removed the wheels & took it to have them refurbished.
3/5 of the wheel nuts are rock solid. Won’t budge even with a massive bar.
The locking nuts came off perfectly easily.
Apparently the normal nuts are Ti.
I am suspecting that they have galled. Probably no anti seize being applied when the wheels were last off for tyres.
Solutions are limited as :
You can’t use heat because to get enough in to do any good will damage the aluminium wheel.
Access is hard as they are quite recessed, so you can’t get a grinder in to cut them down the side to then chisel them off.
Drilling may be possible, drill down the middle of each stud, use progressively bigger bits until you drill the stud out from inside the nut & it releases.
Current best / least destructive plan I have involves a 3/4” 4:1 torque multiplier & a very long bar.
Shear the studs off & then remove & re-stud the hub.
Unless anyone has experienced this before & has a better idea.
As an aside, anyone with Ti wheel nuts please go & try yours & slap some copperslip on the threads!
He has never removed the wheels & took it to have them refurbished.
3/5 of the wheel nuts are rock solid. Won’t budge even with a massive bar.
The locking nuts came off perfectly easily.
Apparently the normal nuts are Ti.
I am suspecting that they have galled. Probably no anti seize being applied when the wheels were last off for tyres.
Solutions are limited as :
You can’t use heat because to get enough in to do any good will damage the aluminium wheel.
Access is hard as they are quite recessed, so you can’t get a grinder in to cut them down the side to then chisel them off.
Drilling may be possible, drill down the middle of each stud, use progressively bigger bits until you drill the stud out from inside the nut & it releases.
Current best / least destructive plan I have involves a 3/4” 4:1 torque multiplier & a very long bar.
Shear the studs off & then remove & re-stud the hub.
Unless anyone has experienced this before & has a better idea.
As an aside, anyone with Ti wheel nuts please go & try yours & slap some copperslip on the threads!
Stick Legs said:
My nephew has an F-Type V8R. Owned for about a year.
He has never removed the wheels & took it to have them refurbished.
3/5 of the wheel nuts are rock solid. Won’t budge even with a massive bar.
The locking nuts came off perfectly easily.
Apparently the normal nuts are Ti.
I am suspecting that they have galled. Probably no anti seize being applied when the wheels were last off for tyres.
Solutions are limited as :
You can’t use heat because to get enough in to do any good will damage the aluminium wheel.
Access is hard as they are quite recessed, so you can’t get a grinder in to cut them down the side to then chisel them off.
Drilling may be possible, drill down the middle of each stud, use progressively bigger bits until you drill the stud out from inside the nut & it releases.
Current best / least destructive plan I have involves a 3/4” 4:1 torque multiplier & a very long bar.
Shear the studs off & then remove & re-stud the hub.
Unless anyone has experienced this before & has a better idea.
As an aside, anyone with Ti wheel nuts please go & try yours & slap some copperslip on the threads!
Don’t put copper grease on titanium it can degrade and weaken the Ti nut. Use a specific Ti friendly grease (normally nickel based). He has never removed the wheels & took it to have them refurbished.
3/5 of the wheel nuts are rock solid. Won’t budge even with a massive bar.
The locking nuts came off perfectly easily.
Apparently the normal nuts are Ti.
I am suspecting that they have galled. Probably no anti seize being applied when the wheels were last off for tyres.
Solutions are limited as :
You can’t use heat because to get enough in to do any good will damage the aluminium wheel.
Access is hard as they are quite recessed, so you can’t get a grinder in to cut them down the side to then chisel them off.
Drilling may be possible, drill down the middle of each stud, use progressively bigger bits until you drill the stud out from inside the nut & it releases.
Current best / least destructive plan I have involves a 3/4” 4:1 torque multiplier & a very long bar.
Shear the studs off & then remove & re-stud the hub.
Unless anyone has experienced this before & has a better idea.
As an aside, anyone with Ti wheel nuts please go & try yours & slap some copperslip on the threads!
Or better still don't use anything as you can easily over torque the nuts using a lubricant.
Edited by sam.rog on Sunday 22 December 11:34
Stick Legs said:
I am guilty of using Copperslip as a universal anti seize.
But I was always told not to put Ti threaded components together without anti seize due to galling.
There is a specific grease to use with Ti which is metal free. You are right in the fact Ti galls easily. But I was always told not to put Ti threaded components together without anti seize due to galling.
Tbh I’d sell them and put steel ones on. Imagine trying to drill one off for whatever reason. Absolute nightmare.
sam.rog said:
Stick Legs said:
I am guilty of using Copperslip as a universal anti seize.
But I was always told not to put Ti threaded components together without anti seize due to galling.
There is a specific grease to use with Ti which is metal free. You are right in the fact Ti galls easily. But I was always told not to put Ti threaded components together without anti seize due to galling.
Tbh I’d sell them and put steel ones on. Imagine trying to drill one off for whatever reason. Absolute nightmare.
This is common with jaguar wheel nuts. They corrode, swell, and effectively clamp onto the stud.
I had the same issue with an XF. I used a http://www.thewheelnutman.co.uk/contact.html to remove mine. It's fairly painless but makes you wince!
I had the same issue with an XF. I used a http://www.thewheelnutman.co.uk/contact.html to remove mine. It's fairly painless but makes you wince!
Edited by Relaxitscool on Friday 10th January 22:27
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