Audi B7 RS4 - Oil Leak Surprise
Discussion
Morning All
Last month I decided to scratch my B7 RS4 itch and buy a sub-100k miler Avant.
Took a while to find as there is a lot of sub-par stuff out there and wanted a full history etc etc.
Anyway, long story short on taking to my local Audi specialist for a suspension adjust, the free health check has revealed a fairly significant oil leak from the rear of the engine.
Apparently not unheard of and from a parts perspective a small job, but it needs the engine out to access. Big money, but pretty sure it needs fettling rather than simply keeping the oil topped up.
So, my question is if I'm going to the expense of an engine-out job, what else could be sorted as a sort of pre-emptive move for the future?
Are there any other known issues that could be done at the same time?
Oh and any haggling techniques for reducing the 20hr labour cost gratefully received!
Last month I decided to scratch my B7 RS4 itch and buy a sub-100k miler Avant.
Took a while to find as there is a lot of sub-par stuff out there and wanted a full history etc etc.
Anyway, long story short on taking to my local Audi specialist for a suspension adjust, the free health check has revealed a fairly significant oil leak from the rear of the engine.
Apparently not unheard of and from a parts perspective a small job, but it needs the engine out to access. Big money, but pretty sure it needs fettling rather than simply keeping the oil topped up.
So, my question is if I'm going to the expense of an engine-out job, what else could be sorted as a sort of pre-emptive move for the future?
Are there any other known issues that could be done at the same time?
Oh and any haggling techniques for reducing the 20hr labour cost gratefully received!
Can of worms that could lead to a very hefty bill.
Am assuming you didn't get the car independently inspected?
If they're going to be dismantling all sorts it might be worth getting them to check the condition of the DRC pipework as far as they can (if it still has DRC). Not sure if they can check the clutch too? (Seem to recall you can't without taking it out...depends where the leak is I guess). Check all your radiators and pipework, including and especially the oil cooler.
Haggling? If you can, maybe get them to cap the price (and round it down)
On a car this age, no matter how many miles it's done, you could find all sorts of horror stories
Am assuming you didn't get the car independently inspected?
If they're going to be dismantling all sorts it might be worth getting them to check the condition of the DRC pipework as far as they can (if it still has DRC). Not sure if they can check the clutch too? (Seem to recall you can't without taking it out...depends where the leak is I guess). Check all your radiators and pipework, including and especially the oil cooler.
Haggling? If you can, maybe get them to cap the price (and round it down)
On a car this age, no matter how many miles it's done, you could find all sorts of horror stories I think the potential for a hefty bill is part and parcel of owning one of these... I certainly went in eyes wide open!
Didn't get it inspected, but that's on me I guess.
It's had Bilsteins fitted 2 years ago and had the oil cooler / pipes all done too. Clutch feels fine, but could be worth a check.
I'll be doing minimal miles in it, so just need to work out how long to leave it... my guess is not too long.
May throw in a carbon clean as it's been 2 years / 10k miles since the last one...
Didn't get it inspected, but that's on me I guess.
It's had Bilsteins fitted 2 years ago and had the oil cooler / pipes all done too. Clutch feels fine, but could be worth a check.
I'll be doing minimal miles in it, so just need to work out how long to leave it... my guess is not too long.
May throw in a carbon clean as it's been 2 years / 10k miles since the last one...
Wolfsbait said:
I think the potential for a hefty bill is part and parcel of owning one of these... I certainly went in eyes wide open!
Didn't get it inspected, but that's on me I guess.
It's had Bilsteins fitted 2 years ago and had the oil cooler / pipes all done too. Clutch feels fine, but could be worth a check.
I'll be doing minimal miles in it, so just need to work out how long to leave it... my guess is not too long.
May throw in a carbon clean as it's been 2 years / 10k miles since the last one...
As noted, not sure how much they can check the clutch, but I'd ask as I know the drivetrain needs dismantling to do it (more than normal).Didn't get it inspected, but that's on me I guess.
It's had Bilsteins fitted 2 years ago and had the oil cooler / pipes all done too. Clutch feels fine, but could be worth a check.
I'll be doing minimal miles in it, so just need to work out how long to leave it... my guess is not too long.
May throw in a carbon clean as it's been 2 years / 10k miles since the last one...
Carbon cleans...mine hasn't had one since I've owned it (8yrs and 30k miles). Not sure it's ever had one. I think the best bet on this topic is to feed it good fuel and use it properly to avoid coking.
Can't think of anything else to do - I have some vague recollection that changing the plugs on these can be a ball ache - might be worth an ask? Definitely check all the rads.
Other than that, fingers crossed for you with the bill. I had a 6k one last year - replacing all the DRC pipes and a number of other bits and pieces. On a car like these I think once you know something is amiss, it's best to get on top of it. The temptation to delay is too strong and the likely additional bills that results in too great
(btw, bill mitigation. Always ask what oil they are going to use and how much they are going to charge you for it...granted it's usually a main dealer trick, but the amount Audi charge is ludicrous. Can save £200 on a service with them just supplying your own oil),
Thanks for the steer(s)
It's always a bit of an unknown I guess with a big job, but agree it needs doing sooner rather than later.
Ouch on the DRC bill! Although as I'm something of an OEM purist, I'd love to take mine back to the original setup... perhaps one for another day!
Previous owner claims to have always fed it super unleaded and I've only put that in, with every journey involving a bit of B-Road redlining, so perhaps it's not worth a de-coke... I hear that coked cars don't get that 5k rev step in power and this one certainly pulls hard beyond 5 so all could be well.
I'm assuming timing chains don't really need looking at on these either?
Will certainly ask about the oil situation too... good call!
It's always a bit of an unknown I guess with a big job, but agree it needs doing sooner rather than later.
Ouch on the DRC bill! Although as I'm something of an OEM purist, I'd love to take mine back to the original setup... perhaps one for another day!
Previous owner claims to have always fed it super unleaded and I've only put that in, with every journey involving a bit of B-Road redlining, so perhaps it's not worth a de-coke... I hear that coked cars don't get that 5k rev step in power and this one certainly pulls hard beyond 5 so all could be well.
I'm assuming timing chains don't really need looking at on these either?
Will certainly ask about the oil situation too... good call!
Wolfsbait said:
Thanks for the steer(s)
It's always a bit of an unknown I guess with a big job, but agree it needs doing sooner rather than later.
Ouch on the DRC bill! Although as I'm something of an OEM purist, I'd love to take mine back to the original setup... perhaps one for another day!
Previous owner claims to have always fed it super unleaded and I've only put that in, with every journey involving a bit of B-Road redlining, so perhaps it's not worth a de-coke... I hear that coked cars don't get that 5k rev step in power and this one certainly pulls hard beyond 5 so all could be well.
I'm assuming timing chains don't really need looking at on these either?
Will certainly ask about the oil situation too... good call!
I would certainly do the de-coke.It's always a bit of an unknown I guess with a big job, but agree it needs doing sooner rather than later.
Ouch on the DRC bill! Although as I'm something of an OEM purist, I'd love to take mine back to the original setup... perhaps one for another day!
Previous owner claims to have always fed it super unleaded and I've only put that in, with every journey involving a bit of B-Road redlining, so perhaps it's not worth a de-coke... I hear that coked cars don't get that 5k rev step in power and this one certainly pulls hard beyond 5 so all could be well.
I'm assuming timing chains don't really need looking at on these either?
Will certainly ask about the oil situation too... good call!
I've seen them Dyno as low as 330 HP with carbon build up.
Since it's out, you may as well have it done, it will take 1 Hr with the engine removed.
Wolfsbait said:
...I hear that coked cars don't...
This is the internet's coverall for B7 RS4 problems, peddled hardest by those that sell it (and those to whom it has been sold).Not saying it isn't an issue but it is wrongly assumed that if a B7 isn't quite as quick as it used to be then this is the cause. Made worse by the people working on them being unfamiliar with their quirks. Vacuum problems just as likely to drop power as carbon buildup and because it doesn't throw a fault code it's easy to make an assumption.
/it easier, but if you take that approach on everything you end up with bills even bigger than mine 
There's a "test" you can do pulling the car from 3k revs to 8k (I think) in third and there's a set of benchmark times for it (they're on rs246.com somewhere). If your car hits those times I personally wouldn't bother - you'd be likely trying to fix something that isn't broken.
Again an "I think" but the timing chains shouldn't be a problem on RS4s (I think the S4 can be a headache on this front as there are differences in design). NB this "I think" can probably be classed as "hopeful thinking"
Ref DRC, it would cost a lot of money to retrofit. You'd almost certainly be better off selling the car and buying one with it IMO.
There's a "test" you can do pulling the car from 3k revs to 8k (I think) in third and there's a set of benchmark times for it (they're on rs246.com somewhere). If your car hits those times I personally wouldn't bother - you'd be likely trying to fix something that isn't broken.
Again an "I think" but the timing chains shouldn't be a problem on RS4s (I think the S4 can be a headache on this front as there are differences in design). NB this "I think" can probably be classed as "hopeful thinking"
Ref DRC, it would cost a lot of money to retrofit. You'd almost certainly be better off selling the car and buying one with it IMO.
I'm a big believer in proactive maintenance Murph - and I really have no idea why you wouldn't do a carbon clean when the engine is BEING REMOVED (??)
The cost isn't going to be much, to get access to the inlets with the engine out is so much easier, and will take 1 hr, 2 hr max.
It's a very common problem so why not fix it :-) then means you don't need to do it in 6 months. why bother with the faff of doing acceleration times.
The cost isn't going to be much, to get access to the inlets with the engine out is so much easier, and will take 1 hr, 2 hr max. It's a very common problem so why not fix it :-) then means you don't need to do it in 6 months. why bother with the faff of doing acceleration times.
320d is all you need said:
I'm a big believer in proactive maintenance Murph - and I really have no idea why you wouldn't do a carbon clean when the engine is BEING REMOVED (??)
The cost isn't going to be much, to get access to the inlets with the engine out is so much easier, and will take 1 hr, 2 hr max.
It's a very common problem so why not fix it :-) then means you don't need to do it in 6 months. why bother with the faff of doing acceleration times.
Because taking the car for a run before it's all in bits takes zero effort and will likely be one of the better indicators as to whether there's an actual problem or not. The cost isn't going to be much, to get access to the inlets with the engine out is so much easier, and will take 1 hr, 2 hr max. It's a very common problem so why not fix it :-) then means you don't need to do it in 6 months. why bother with the faff of doing acceleration times.
And if there is no problem, what are you "fixing"?
When I had the DRC done on mine I asked similar questions about what would make sense to be done at the same time. We drew up a list with pros and cons and took it from there.
Ask about decoking by all means in terms of how much it might cost with the engine out versus against. But if there is no noticeable problem with the car and how it runs, it's doing more work for no good reason. And with the size of the bill the OP is likely to face, I imagine sensible mitigation might be wise
Welshbeef said:
Put it this way say you want to own it for 5 years.
If you get it down now you’ll get 5 years of benefit vs only getting it done when it needs to be done.
I am with you both generally (hence my "sit down a minute" bill last year).If you get it down now you’ll get 5 years of benefit vs only getting it done when it needs to be done.
But if there is no coking problem on this particular car (mine doesn't have it and never has so it is far from universal), you're getting precisely no benefit now and for the next 5yrs
Murph7355 said:
320d is all you need said:
I'm a big believer in proactive maintenance Murph - and I really have no idea why you wouldn't do a carbon clean when the engine is BEING REMOVED (??)
The cost isn't going to be much, to get access to the inlets with the engine out is so much easier, and will take 1 hr, 2 hr max.
It's a very common problem so why not fix it :-) then means you don't need to do it in 6 months. why bother with the faff of doing acceleration times.
Because taking the car for a run before it's all in bits takes zero effort and will likely be one of the better indicators as to whether there's an actual problem or not. The cost isn't going to be much, to get access to the inlets with the engine out is so much easier, and will take 1 hr, 2 hr max. It's a very common problem so why not fix it :-) then means you don't need to do it in 6 months. why bother with the faff of doing acceleration times.
And if there is no problem, what are you "fixing"?
When I had the DRC done on mine I asked similar questions about what would make sense to be done at the same time. We drew up a list with pros and cons and took it from there.
Ask about decoking by all means in terms of how much it might cost with the engine out versus against. But if there is no noticeable problem with the car and how it runs, it's doing more work for no good reason. And with the size of the bill the OP is likely to face, I imagine sensible mitigation might be wise
Anyway, OP's car and money , but that's my advice
Thanks for the de coke decision discussion...!
I’m going to get a quote for adding to the list... but agree it’s not something that needs to be done ‘engine out’ so if no discount / benefit I’ll leave it I think.
Interestingly I’ve just looked at an old MOT advisory from 2016 and it mentions an oil leak, but nothing since and last MOT was advisory free... Mmmmm
Anyway, getting the car booked in beginning of November.
I’m going to get a quote for adding to the list... but agree it’s not something that needs to be done ‘engine out’ so if no discount / benefit I’ll leave it I think.
Interestingly I’ve just looked at an old MOT advisory from 2016 and it mentions an oil leak, but nothing since and last MOT was advisory free... Mmmmm
Anyway, getting the car booked in beginning of November.
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