Head bolts or arp studs
Head bolts or arp studs
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Discussion

Moose v8

Original Poster:

204 posts

83 months

Monday 10th August 2020
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Thinking ahead winter project changing camshaft on my 1992 4.3 Griff decoke heads port matching inlet manifold, have done exhaust manifolds already, looking at fitting Kent 885 kit. Powers list it. Questions is it worth fitting arp head studs , head gaskets. Metal or composite ( head skim to keep compression same ) I believe all the 4.3 heads were ported looking at the exhaust ports mine. Won't know until heads removed if bigger valves fitted if not is it worth doing, work done already Clive ford equal length manifolds, Act carbon trumpets, smooth bore induction hose I just want a quick reliable tvr and drivable if that's possible

Moose v8

Original Poster:

204 posts

83 months

Monday 10th August 2020
quotequote all
sorry forgot to add to previous post

Boosted LS1

21,200 posts

277 months

Monday 10th August 2020
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Studs would be preferred imo.

Steve_D

13,799 posts

275 months

Monday 10th August 2020
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Random thought.
If you have head studs can you get the heads on/off with the engine in the car or does the head foul the bulkhead?

Steve

Boosted LS1

21,200 posts

277 months

Tuesday 11th August 2020
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I've had this issue and can't remember. If the studs are copper slipped into the engine you may be able to unwind the rear ones before lifting the head.

A test fit with just the rear studs would be a good idea.

Barreti

6,687 posts

254 months

Wednesday 12th August 2020
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That port looks just like mine on my 4.3 so I guess you’re right that they were all ported. I thought it might be just mine.
Can’t offer any advice on the head bolts though, sorry. But good luck and keep us updated because it would be useful to know if the studs allow the head to be fitted with the engine in situ

Edited by Barreti on Wednesday 12th August 08:52

Zener

19,222 posts

238 months

Wednesday 12th August 2020
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Regarding ARP yes you will need to pull the studs if the heads are removed whilst engine is in the car (little Allen hex in end of studs for this purpose) providing you use the correct ARP grease no worries of the studs not coming out of the block in future and you dont tighten studs into the block blind threads either finger tighten and bottom out or very light nip down to confirm you have reached thread limit 10nm/7ft pound would do it

phazed

22,289 posts

221 months

Wednesday 12th August 2020
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^^^^^^^^^^

I have always screwed them in lightly until they have bottomed out and then back them off about quarter of a turn. When removing them a couple of years later they came out very easily.