Fuel tank breather / rollover valve issue - ’92 4.0 pre-cat
Discussion
Hi everyone, I'm quite new to the TVR world and hoping for your help, please.
I’ve run into what I think is a tank venting problem on my pre-cat Griff. The first sign was an odd bong sound as the tank changed shape under pressure. When I opened the filler cap (unvented type), I could feel the pressure equalise very quickly.
For now I’m running with the cap cracked open slightly so the tank can breathe, but I’m very aware that’s not a safe long-term solution.
Here’s what I’ve checked so far:
Questions for the hive mind:
Thank you all,
Daniel
I’ve run into what I think is a tank venting problem on my pre-cat Griff. The first sign was an odd bong sound as the tank changed shape under pressure. When I opened the filler cap (unvented type), I could feel the pressure equalise very quickly.
For now I’m running with the cap cracked open slightly so the tank can breathe, but I’m very aware that’s not a safe long-term solution.
Here’s what I’ve checked so far:
- Followed the breather hose from the nipple on the filler neck.
- Disconnected it and tried pressure testing with ~30 psi of air from the compressor. Totally airtight.
- Went underneath the car, found what I think is the other end of the pipe tied near the rear left suspension. Untied that, tried a pressure test again – still airtight.
- Pulled some of the boot carpet back and traced the hose down behind the tank. My hand found a component with a part number on it, which identifies it as a rollover breather valve.
Questions for the hive mind:
- Is there anything else I should be checking before blaming the valve?
- If it is the valve, can it be replaced in situ, or am I realistically looking at removing/moving the fuel tank to get at it?
Thank you all,
Daniel
Im no expert on rollover valves but it should be open to allow the tank to vent and then seal off in the event of the car overturning.
I would check the rubber hose has not been squashed somewhere, sadly will probably mean tank moving but this isnt a huge issue if its fairly empty.
It can be a good opportunity to change the rest of the fuel hoses as if they are an unknown age they can be a real safety issue.
Check your fuel cap too to see if it has a breather hole in it.
I would check the rubber hose has not been squashed somewhere, sadly will probably mean tank moving but this isnt a huge issue if its fairly empty.
It can be a good opportunity to change the rest of the fuel hoses as if they are an unknown age they can be a real safety issue.
Check your fuel cap too to see if it has a breather hole in it.
Thank you for your responses, helpful stuff 
I had some time today to get into it, so I elevated the back of the car, disconnected the battery, removed the boot carpets and interior carpet on the rear bulkhead, released the two bolts either side for the top and bottom of the tank straps, and removed the filler and flexible pipe from the neck.
I didn't drain or fully remove the fuel tank: by removing the cable ties from the main fuel supply line underneath the car, and dismounting but not disconnecting the fuel pump, I was able to provide enough free play in the pipes through the bulkhead to scoot the tank far enough rearwards to be able to work behind it.
I removed both halves of the breather line from the roll over valve, both of them allowed air to pass easily, so I took the rivets out that held the valve to the bulkhead, and took the valve body to the workshop. It wouldn't allow air to pass either way, so I cut it open to satisfy my curiosity. I think I can safely say I found the problem:



I'm just now searching for a replacement valve, I'll fit it and I think I'll be good to go. Fortunately all of the fuel pipes have been replaced recently and are in good condition, so I think I can keep it simple.
Thanks, guys.
Daniel

I had some time today to get into it, so I elevated the back of the car, disconnected the battery, removed the boot carpets and interior carpet on the rear bulkhead, released the two bolts either side for the top and bottom of the tank straps, and removed the filler and flexible pipe from the neck.
I didn't drain or fully remove the fuel tank: by removing the cable ties from the main fuel supply line underneath the car, and dismounting but not disconnecting the fuel pump, I was able to provide enough free play in the pipes through the bulkhead to scoot the tank far enough rearwards to be able to work behind it.
I removed both halves of the breather line from the roll over valve, both of them allowed air to pass easily, so I took the rivets out that held the valve to the bulkhead, and took the valve body to the workshop. It wouldn't allow air to pass either way, so I cut it open to satisfy my curiosity. I think I can safely say I found the problem:
I'm just now searching for a replacement valve, I'll fit it and I think I'll be good to go. Fortunately all of the fuel pipes have been replaced recently and are in good condition, so I think I can keep it simple.
Thanks, guys.
Daniel
There are lots of this type around if you can find a way of mounting it.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362928785828?chn=ps&...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362928785828?chn=ps&...
Hi,
I ordered a "Roll Over Valve In Line With 5/16 (8mm) Push On Tails" SKU M-TRL88 from Merlin Motorsport.
While it was a bit more expensive than alternatives, given the hassle of changing it, I wanted to make sure I was fitting a part that should last some time. It's smaller than the one I removed and quite different form factor, so I had to fabricate a small metal bracket to keep it vertical, and because it wanted tank connecting to the bottom and atmosphere to the top, I had to be careful with the amount of spare hose I had - if yours aren't long, perhaps replace them at the same time, mine were long enough to get it done.
I think it would be possible for it to rust open, but without removing the part of flipping your car upside down, it would be challenging to check. I did notice that the TRL-88 locked when I blew in the "normal" direction too forcefully - you could hear the bearings click in and out of place. As soon as they clicked back it would continue allowing the tank to breathe as normal, so perhaps you could use that as a kind of check of free movement.
Sorry, I should have taken a photo of it fitted before I put the tank back.
I ordered a "Roll Over Valve In Line With 5/16 (8mm) Push On Tails" SKU M-TRL88 from Merlin Motorsport.
While it was a bit more expensive than alternatives, given the hassle of changing it, I wanted to make sure I was fitting a part that should last some time. It's smaller than the one I removed and quite different form factor, so I had to fabricate a small metal bracket to keep it vertical, and because it wanted tank connecting to the bottom and atmosphere to the top, I had to be careful with the amount of spare hose I had - if yours aren't long, perhaps replace them at the same time, mine were long enough to get it done.
I think it would be possible for it to rust open, but without removing the part of flipping your car upside down, it would be challenging to check. I did notice that the TRL-88 locked when I blew in the "normal" direction too forcefully - you could hear the bearings click in and out of place. As soon as they clicked back it would continue allowing the tank to breathe as normal, so perhaps you could use that as a kind of check of free movement.
Sorry, I should have taken a photo of it fitted before I put the tank back.
[quote=jauntyviper]Hi,
I ordered a "Roll Over Valve In Line With 5/16 (8mm) Push On Tails" SKU M-TRL88 from Merlin Motorsport.
Thanks for that info, I think this will be on the “things to do over winter” list!
I ordered a "Roll Over Valve In Line With 5/16 (8mm) Push On Tails" SKU M-TRL88 from Merlin Motorsport.
Thanks for that info, I think this will be on the “things to do over winter” list!
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