Excessive front wheel bearing play
Discussion
I've replaced a front wheel bearing twice with 2 different makes of bearings and still have excessive play. The inner cones are very tight on the hub and the outer cups are very tight in the upright.
Are shims available to add behind the out cups to push the outer cups further apart to tighten the bearing, machining a thou off an inner cone’s front face would have the same effect.
Shame they don’t have an adjustment nut with a split pin like the good old days.
Cheers
Are shims available to add behind the out cups to push the outer cups further apart to tighten the bearing, machining a thou off an inner cone’s front face would have the same effect.
Shame they don’t have an adjustment nut with a split pin like the good old days.
Cheers
Edited by stevesprint on Friday 28th February 09:44
Last week I torqued my new ones up to 240 in the vice....rammed full with lovely new greese they are just nice and firm to turn....should be perfect when warmed up in use.
Have you got the right bearing kits would be my first check....hub check 2nd....flange check third.....torque setting 4th.
Don't quite follow your 2nd para....you'd have to shim out the outer races inside the hub to push them further apart to take up bearing slack....bit of a guessing game as to how many though and obtaining shim in suitable size and a range of thicknesses sounds like not much fun !
Have you got the right bearing kits would be my first check....hub check 2nd....flange check third.....torque setting 4th.
Don't quite follow your 2nd para....you'd have to shim out the outer races inside the hub to push them further apart to take up bearing slack....bit of a guessing game as to how many though and obtaining shim in suitable size and a range of thicknesses sounds like not much fun !
The pre-load is built into the bearing kit/set races so unless the hub nut is damaged/scored on the clamping face and your saying the outer and inner cups are secure then this is the only way you can have play/float
unless the bearings are of s
te quality
a lot of questionable quality stuff around at the moment especially bearings
I would only use shims for a last resort 
unless the bearings are of s
te quality
a lot of questionable quality stuff around at the moment especially bearings
I would only use shims for a last resort 
Steve, I am not an expert but it sounds a bit questionable to me, something sounds wrong. I didn't thnk there was any adjustment nor any shimming. Assuming a 4.3 has the same bearings as a 500, I've got my hubs stripped down so can do some measurements next Friday on my return to Blighty, if that helps.
Let me know, Pete
Let me know, Pete
Pete Mac said:
Steve, I am not an expert but it sounds a bit questionable to me, something sounds wrong. I didn't thnk there was any adjustment nor any shimming. Assuming a 4.3 has the same bearings as a 500, I've got my hubs stripped down so can do some measurements next Friday on my return to Blighty, if that helps.
Let me know, Pete
Correct, no adjustment and no shims the factory pre-load is build into the bearing kit with the nut torqued correctly Let me know, Pete

Sardonicus said:
orrect, no adjustment and no shims the factory pre-load is build into the bearing kit with the nut torqued correctly 
I know ... I know... I'm just so cheesed off I was only living in hope.
Chuggaboom or anyone else that has successfully fitted a new bearing kit can you please give me the make and bearing kit part number, thanks.
Pete Mac said:
I've got my hubs stripped down so can do some measurements next Friday on my return
Pete, Yes please, that's the best offer I've had all year and their is no pressure. Some very accurate measurements may help me identify if I need a new hub or upright. Would you mind measuring the length of a bearing and inside the upright the gap between where the outer cups sit.Thanks everyone for confirming my thoughts, I just needed to hear it from some else before I start buying hubs and uprights.
Thanks & Cheers Gents
Steve Sprint
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