Help Diff mount removal query

[jesfirth]

Ok. So I have buggered the triangular drivers side diff mounting plate - the top mount hole is now oval because I stupidly ran it at a sprint when it had come loose after breaking the bottom bolt so regardless of how tight the bolt is the bolt moves so I need to change the plate. The bottom bolt was replaced and is now fine. It's not the usual how do I get to the top bolt query. That's easy because the back shelf has a large panel cut into it. The bottom rear bolt was easy too, but I undid the long front bolt eased it out backwards and it hit the drive shaft a good inch before it released the rubber bush. Is there any trick to getting the bolt out without removing the drive shaft to the rear hub?

[spend]

Yes, put it in the right way round in the first place?

hazy recall but shouldn't they all go in pointing backwards so the nut goes on from the drive shaft end?

[jesfirth]

Bugger. I thought that would be the answer. The problem is that it hits the large flange on the drive shaft which may be part of the diff itself?

[carsy]

Mine point forward like Jesfirth`s. This is how they should be. You would never get the bolt in from the other end as the body would be in the way. Presume its driveshafts out before the bolt will come out.

Are you sure its not the cv joint its hitting.

Edited by carsy on Wednesday 7th May 21:07

[jesfirth]

Ok so if if I take out the 8 bolts fixing the drive shaft to the diff can I slide it backwards a couple of inches without taking it off at the wheel or will it not slide easily?

[spend]

Is it a case of the driveshaft fouling the bolt only because the corner is in full droop, ISTR something about needing to have the wheel full droop or full compression affect to clear some fittings?

[jesfirth]

Dunno hadn't thought of that. Will try later. You sir may be a genius.

[SteveSPG]

jes

if it is fouling the driveshaft that is in the diff, and you have a btr diff, those pop out pretty easy with a solid tap with a lump hammer via a suitable piece of wood.

can be popped back in by hand also.

no need to drain the oil either

[PeteGriff]

Hi Jes, if you intend to replace the side bushes once everything is eventually out and yours is the later BTR type diff (bushes are longer), I have a set brand new in the workshop, send me a PM and we can work something out if interested? Regards, Pete

[wuckfitracing]

Ah you may have answered a question I had on the Chim forum about why my new powerflex bushes seem to be too big. I have a GKN diff and these wont fit.
Cheers.

[spend]

wuckfitracing said:

Ah you may have answered a question I had on the Chim forum about why my new powerflex bushes seem to be too big. I have a GKN diff and these wont fit.
Cheers.

There are a couple of different chassis arrangements with the early cars.... Some contain the whole bush others it literally floats on the centre of the bush (in which case you must have metalastic). If the OD of your chassis tubes are only the size of the bush centre bearing then thats the early arrangement where you have to use metalastic bushes unless you modify ~ LR rear damper bushes come with suitable big washer/retainers BTW but I would also advise shortening + sleeving the chassis in that case)

[wuckfitracing]

Looks like its going to be the metallastic option then. Many thanks for the info.

[spend]

wuckfitracing said:

Looks like its going to be the metallastic option then. Many thanks for the info.

You can of course still put poly in the more troublesome rear upper

[carsy]

I have an early GKN. `92 Griff. At the time of refitting i wasnt aware you could get the shorter polly bushes to suit. I just cut the pollys i had bought in half removing the appropriate amount of material from the middle so they fitted in the brackets nicely and then pressed them into the diff brackets. They havent budged. The normal pollys are also slightly wider in diameter than the ones acyually needed which means they are a real tight fit in the bracket which i suppose has helped stop them moving. The ends of the bushes also but up to the chassis so they cant really go anywhere anyway.

[spend]

carsy said:

I have an early GKN. `92 Griff. At the time of refitting i wasnt aware you could get the shorter polly bushes to suit. I just cut the pollys i had bought in half removing the appropriate amount of material from the middle so they fitted in the brackets nicely and then pressed them into the diff brackets. They havent budged. The normal pollys are also slightly wider in diameter than the ones acyually needed which means they are a real tight fit in the bracket which i suppose has helped stop them moving. The ends of the bushes also but up to the chassis so they cant really go anywhere anyway.

I was maybe the first to try that, and all seemed well... but trust me the 'brim' of the top hat is not enough to retain the diff bracket when you are trying. It needs a plate to retain/support it IMHO, or like mine it will escape the bracket and run up the chassis tube off the inner bush ~ I guess the road use can exert more force than we do pressing them in? IIRC Ant was the first to modify by adding a 'thrust' washer support. TBH I was so horrified when I saw mine had 'escaped' I wacked in metalastic poste haste without sitting down to think about any modification.