Discussion
Took my Griffith out as it was a nice day.
Half way to my destination, the fuel needle dropped and went down steadily.
Arrived and took a look. What a mess!!
The fuel hose that runs out of the fuel filter then runs all the way to the front of the car.
It was that one that let go APPX 50mm from the jubilee clip filter outlet. To get it home it pulled the outlet of the filter, cut off the part that popped a hole and put that directly on the outlet of the fuel pump. I basically had to temporarily delete the fuel filter. Not ideal but it got my car home and it drove as it always does.
Allegedly all hoses were replaced while other work was done on my car.
The hoses are not in great condition so I'm going to get some quality ethanol safe hoses.
I'll change all I can.
As for the 2 hoses that run all the way from the back to front, mine are the same rubber hose.
Would it be worth replacing the 'long hoses' with metal pipe? Brass? Stainless steel? Copper?
Seems like my cars going to be off the road for a while.
Half way to my destination, the fuel needle dropped and went down steadily.
Arrived and took a look. What a mess!!
The fuel hose that runs out of the fuel filter then runs all the way to the front of the car.
It was that one that let go APPX 50mm from the jubilee clip filter outlet. To get it home it pulled the outlet of the filter, cut off the part that popped a hole and put that directly on the outlet of the fuel pump. I basically had to temporarily delete the fuel filter. Not ideal but it got my car home and it drove as it always does.
Allegedly all hoses were replaced while other work was done on my car.
The hoses are not in great condition so I'm going to get some quality ethanol safe hoses.
I'll change all I can.
As for the 2 hoses that run all the way from the back to front, mine are the same rubber hose.
Would it be worth replacing the 'long hoses' with metal pipe? Brass? Stainless steel? Copper?
Seems like my cars going to be off the road for a while.
As Alun says they were originally copper but I found that all my fuel leaks were at copper/rubber joints so chose to completely eliminate any metal/rubber joints on the high pressure feed. The return to the tank is low pressure so copper/rubber joints are not a problem.
If you have not seen this it may help:
https://www.bertram-hill.com/replacing-the-fuel-li...
If you have not seen this it may help:
https://www.bertram-hill.com/replacing-the-fuel-li...
My only issue with braided stuff is you can't really see the inside, do you have any idea of the life expectancy of it?
I know ptfe stuff is available but just wondered which would be best.
I do prefer the unbroken runs but obviously will cost more, no real issue though if the hose lasts.
I know ptfe stuff is available but just wondered which would be best.
I do prefer the unbroken runs but obviously will cost more, no real issue though if the hose lasts.
Belle427 said:
My only issue with braided stuff is you can't really see the inside, do you have any idea of the life expectancy of it?
I know ptfe stuff is available but just wondered which would be best.
I do prefer the unbroken runs but obviously will cost more, no real issue though if the hose lasts.
Agreed I know ptfe stuff is available but just wondered which would be best.
I do prefer the unbroken runs but obviously will cost more, no real issue though if the hose lasts.
a guy gave me his XK150 with a fuel leak a while back bragging it should not be the fuel hoses
sadly it was the stainless braided hoses he purchased from a well known specialist (not cheap) were nothing more than rubber non identifiable fuel hose covered in the braid
they had deteriorated (I cut them open) the specialist did not budge on his opinion on how great they was
so I fitted what I had in stock of course EFI spec TVR 8mm branded problem solved and an happy owner just a little less bling
my advice branded correct spec or dont bother and no braided unless you can confirm PTFE inner but personally I wouldn't bother its really not justified I renewed the fuel hoses on Wendy (350i) and replaced all that was there with ethanol rated hoses from Car Builder Solutions. I would rather one, continuous length of line between the various elements (tank, pre-filter, pump, filter rail then return) than a load of connections / joints. Doing it on a lift was a god send.
Yes, fairly easy if you have a ramp, can be done on favourably large axle stands.
Two rubberised sections one from pump to filter then filter to where it connects to the hard copper line at the chassis rail.
Best to use liberal amounts of penetrating fluid on the old joints.
Changing the filter is not easy but well worth changing.
Two rubberised sections one from pump to filter then filter to where it connects to the hard copper line at the chassis rail.
Best to use liberal amounts of penetrating fluid on the old joints.
Changing the filter is not easy but well worth changing.
Harvy500 said:
On my car the hose runs all the way along the chassis. I'm wondering where the hose runs to. Only one way to find out I suppose.
I can test my new (to me) hd axle stands.
I'll have to measure it and then order a new length.
I can test my new (to me) hd axle stands.
I'll have to measure it and then order a new length.
A rubber hose?
That s a first on me.
Considering how close the exhaust is to that high pressure fuel line and hugging the chassis rail very closely I tend to think using a hard line there is a good idea and if you think about it the way the copper pipe is pinned to the steel chassis using cable ties on the outside to the exhaust it helps maintain a cool fuel temperature. Most of the exhaust heat is thrown back and away unless in heavy traffic but I do believe it works in most circumstances but I might be talking trash

I presume the chassis never gets particularly warm.
The carbon canister also runs along this rail which then tracks along past the lower wishbones to the front left corner of the chassis where it then goes right and up into the right hand side front wing and into canister.
Edited by BritishTvr450 on Monday 14th September 21:54
Edited by BritishTvr450 on Monday 14th September 21:55
Will go up at the back of the engine somewhere, as suggested its normally done in copper most of the way but some do change to rubber for ease of fitment.
Only way to see is to get it up and have a look, I prefer to have ramps under all 4 wheels which is easy enough to do.
Just my preference really and ramps from somewhere like machine mart are not expensive.
Always hate lying under a car in the garage.
Only way to see is to get it up and have a look, I prefer to have ramps under all 4 wheels which is easy enough to do.
Just my preference really and ramps from somewhere like machine mart are not expensive.
Always hate lying under a car in the garage.
Harvy500 said:
On my car the hose runs all the way along the chassis. I'm wondering where the hose runs to. Only one way to find out I suppose.
I can test my new (to me) hd axle stands.
I'll have to measure it and then order a new length.
You sure thats the supply pipe from pump on the nearside crossing over to the offside above the g/box bell-housing and terminating at the engine rear near No 8 cyl ? I can test my new (to me) hd axle stands.
I'll have to measure it and then order a new length.
The leak was just about 50mm (pin hole that pi$$ed out under pressure) away from the outlet of the fuel filter.
So basically, it leaves the filter, wiggles its way round the rear near side chassis, then it continues all the way along the near side of the chassis then goes up towards the back of the left side of the engine.
My plan is to get the car up and see where it joins at the 'front'.
Looking at the cars history and what I know about it, I've got receipts from 2 TVR specialists clearly saying and charging for fuel pipe replacement.
Also, around the fuel filter it must get hot due to not being far away from the exhaust. May be worth some sort of heat shield creation.
Btw, the 2 receipts I've got one is 5 years ago and one is 3 years ago. It seems they did a job but not with good quality components. There's a surprise eh?!
So basically, it leaves the filter, wiggles its way round the rear near side chassis, then it continues all the way along the near side of the chassis then goes up towards the back of the left side of the engine.
My plan is to get the car up and see where it joins at the 'front'.
Looking at the cars history and what I know about it, I've got receipts from 2 TVR specialists clearly saying and charging for fuel pipe replacement.
Also, around the fuel filter it must get hot due to not being far away from the exhaust. May be worth some sort of heat shield creation.
Btw, the 2 receipts I've got one is 5 years ago and one is 3 years ago. It seems they did a job but not with good quality components. There's a surprise eh?!
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bit overkill really the car is seldom out of my sight anyway but was part of the CAT1 install many many years ago