New Nitron adjustable settings
Discussion
Going for new Nitron NTR R1 Fast Road Set suspension and the roads here in Kent are to say the least, crap, especially the roller coaster part near Whitsable.
Just wondered how other people have theirs set up with regard to really firm, really relaxed or somewhere in the middle.
Thanks.
Just wondered how other people have theirs set up with regard to really firm, really relaxed or somewhere in the middle.
Thanks.
I know the roller coaster you mean. I live in Herne bay.
My car has Protech shocks and set to around medium settings. Drives ok over the bumps but it's still a bounce. My Volvo V70 does exactly the same thing.
Just about any car you drive down the (A299) it's bumpy as hell in a few places. That's why there's a 50mph limit on it now.
Allegedly it's to do with the sub soil subsidence. Should have laid the road properly in the first place.
My car has Protech shocks and set to around medium settings. Drives ok over the bumps but it's still a bounce. My Volvo V70 does exactly the same thing.
Just about any car you drive down the (A299) it's bumpy as hell in a few places. That's why there's a 50mph limit on it now.
Allegedly it's to do with the sub soil subsidence. Should have laid the road properly in the first place.
I’d second Belle’s comments.
As they are fully adjustable ride heights will need to be set then damper settings and as ride height does have a critical effect on wheel geometry that’s best to get checked after ride height has been set.
Ideally you’d do all this in conjunction with having the car corner weighted to get the most accurate set up.
As you have gone for the fast road set up that suggests slightly harder springs so getting them set up properly will be the best thing you can do with your money. Matt Smith knows how to do this better than most.
Corner weighting is really the only accurate way to get the ride height/ camber and balance spot on in conjunction with geometry settings. Matt races Tvr so knows exactly how to get a best set up in quick time.
The old way of taking ride height measurements from the corners of out riggers is simply a best guess and not something you can trust at 120mph entering a corner which getting the car set up including corner weighting once now should keep the car set up well for years as once set they tend to stay set.
After this adjusting the damper settings for slightly softer/ harder ride is then down to your choice but getting the set up balance right in the first place is only done by employing all these above.
By recording very accurately these measurements once set you can then refer back to them if you have to affect them with other work on the car at a later date enabling you to set the car up without huge expense.
My points about corner weighting are because there is absolutely know way taking measurements from out rigger plates can be relied on as fully accurate so corner weighting is the only accurate way to get the weight levels correct on each corner of the car before you then set geometry as a final act.
If your body sits 5 mm lower on one side due to the chassis not being perfectly accurate this will add weight to that side of the car and corner weighting is how you can counter that imbalance and bring the pendulum back to where it should be.
By the way corner weighting doesn’t always include using weights, mostly it’s done by adjusting the ride heights very slightly up or down on any given corner to level up the weight on each tyre rather than simply rely on if the body is level.
Often after a shunt a race car might be slightly bent. As long as you can get the four corners inline with the correct amount of weight on each tyre it doesn’t matter if the body is sitting skew whiff.
As Tvr chassis can twist and out rigger position is anyone’s guess there is a fair likelihood many are not perfectly level at each corner so setting ride height and getting a basic balance should be done at least once in the car’s life and corner weighting helps hugely here.
Let Matt Smith do this and you’ll have the best set up possible and the car be great to drive.
Don’t get me wrong, measuring from floor to corner plates is good enough to get you a basic ride height set up but only corner weighting can tell you how level the weight is sitting on each tyre and how to adjust it.
Once the car is set up ask Matt to Measure upto your corner plates whilst the car is on his “flat floor” and then use those measurements in future and your car should stay fully balanced for years.
You will not only have a car that’s been corner weighted you’ll also have a set of measurments that take into account any chassis deviance so when setting up using floor upto plates method in future you’ll have an accurate method without having to corner weight the car each time.
On Tvr cars the most obvious thing is standard ride height is as low as the car can go for road use and on a Chim is only 100 mm from the ground at its lowest point and taking the car any lower effects the wishbone arc badly with ill effects on handling.
So once ride height/balance is set leave well alone.
Setting the car up is a most important thing.
As they are fully adjustable ride heights will need to be set then damper settings and as ride height does have a critical effect on wheel geometry that’s best to get checked after ride height has been set.
Ideally you’d do all this in conjunction with having the car corner weighted to get the most accurate set up.
As you have gone for the fast road set up that suggests slightly harder springs so getting them set up properly will be the best thing you can do with your money. Matt Smith knows how to do this better than most.
Corner weighting is really the only accurate way to get the ride height/ camber and balance spot on in conjunction with geometry settings. Matt races Tvr so knows exactly how to get a best set up in quick time.
The old way of taking ride height measurements from the corners of out riggers is simply a best guess and not something you can trust at 120mph entering a corner which getting the car set up including corner weighting once now should keep the car set up well for years as once set they tend to stay set.
After this adjusting the damper settings for slightly softer/ harder ride is then down to your choice but getting the set up balance right in the first place is only done by employing all these above.
By recording very accurately these measurements once set you can then refer back to them if you have to affect them with other work on the car at a later date enabling you to set the car up without huge expense.
My points about corner weighting are because there is absolutely know way taking measurements from out rigger plates can be relied on as fully accurate so corner weighting is the only accurate way to get the weight levels correct on each corner of the car before you then set geometry as a final act.
If your body sits 5 mm lower on one side due to the chassis not being perfectly accurate this will add weight to that side of the car and corner weighting is how you can counter that imbalance and bring the pendulum back to where it should be.
By the way corner weighting doesn’t always include using weights, mostly it’s done by adjusting the ride heights very slightly up or down on any given corner to level up the weight on each tyre rather than simply rely on if the body is level.
Often after a shunt a race car might be slightly bent. As long as you can get the four corners inline with the correct amount of weight on each tyre it doesn’t matter if the body is sitting skew whiff.
As Tvr chassis can twist and out rigger position is anyone’s guess there is a fair likelihood many are not perfectly level at each corner so setting ride height and getting a basic balance should be done at least once in the car’s life and corner weighting helps hugely here.
Let Matt Smith do this and you’ll have the best set up possible and the car be great to drive.
Don’t get me wrong, measuring from floor to corner plates is good enough to get you a basic ride height set up but only corner weighting can tell you how level the weight is sitting on each tyre and how to adjust it.
Once the car is set up ask Matt to Measure upto your corner plates whilst the car is on his “flat floor” and then use those measurements in future and your car should stay fully balanced for years.
You will not only have a car that’s been corner weighted you’ll also have a set of measurments that take into account any chassis deviance so when setting up using floor upto plates method in future you’ll have an accurate method without having to corner weight the car each time.
On Tvr cars the most obvious thing is standard ride height is as low as the car can go for road use and on a Chim is only 100 mm from the ground at its lowest point and taking the car any lower effects the wishbone arc badly with ill effects on handling.
So once ride height/balance is set leave well alone.
Setting the car up is a most important thing.
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