1992 Griffith 4.5 big valve
Discussion
I have the opportunity to buy a one owner 1992 4.5 big valve Griffith.
I am being told that it is 1 of 9 cars built.
Does anyone have any info on the 4.5 BV engine, are they pretty reliable.
I am aware to make sure that the fans are working with regards to overheating.
What sort of oil pressure readings should I expect ?
Also to check that the chassis outriggers are in good condition but I am being told that this can be difficult to check effectively.
Any thoughts and advice would be very much appreciated
I am being told that it is 1 of 9 cars built.
Does anyone have any info on the 4.5 BV engine, are they pretty reliable.
I am aware to make sure that the fans are working with regards to overheating.
What sort of oil pressure readings should I expect ?
Also to check that the chassis outriggers are in good condition but I am being told that this can be difficult to check effectively.
Any thoughts and advice would be very much appreciated
Very unusual car, the engine was built by NCK who are now Powers, info seems to suggest it had a crossbolted steel crank and rods, cosworth pistons and big valve heads.
A very nice engine and described as probably the sweetest of the lot.
Chassis condition can be tricky to inspect, if no history of outriggers then no doubt it may need some but depends how its been treated.
Really needs a thorough inspection on a ramp.
Oil pressure difficult to guess at but I would expect to see around 35 to 40 psi ish on a hot engine, how accurate the senders are is another thing.
Not many know they exist.
A very nice engine and described as probably the sweetest of the lot.
Chassis condition can be tricky to inspect, if no history of outriggers then no doubt it may need some but depends how its been treated.
Really needs a thorough inspection on a ramp.
Oil pressure difficult to guess at but I would expect to see around 35 to 40 psi ish on a hot engine, how accurate the senders are is another thing.
Not many know they exist.
So I went to look at the Griff today.
It does need some TLC. Interior needs a bloody good clean and the exterior could do with a good mop and polish.
Could only run it for a short time as a fuel hose had split. Oil pressure looked fine and it sounded quit mechanically.
Noticeable powder coating flaking on the right hand wishbone with corrosion.
I popped down to a garage not far from me to see what they would charge for putting it on a ramp to inspect.
They saw the Griff just over two years ago for a clutch which they did not do as they said it needs a new chassis.
Who are the go to guys for a new chassis ?
Also the right hand wiper switch was super floppy. Where would you recommend getting one from ?
There were a couple of dyno graphs and it makes good power or did. roughly 320 bhp at 5800rpm and 320 ft lb of torque.
Would I buy it, yes if the work needed can be factored into the price
It does need some TLC. Interior needs a bloody good clean and the exterior could do with a good mop and polish.
Could only run it for a short time as a fuel hose had split. Oil pressure looked fine and it sounded quit mechanically.
Noticeable powder coating flaking on the right hand wishbone with corrosion.
I popped down to a garage not far from me to see what they would charge for putting it on a ramp to inspect.
They saw the Griff just over two years ago for a clutch which they did not do as they said it needs a new chassis.
Who are the go to guys for a new chassis ?
Also the right hand wiper switch was super floppy. Where would you recommend getting one from ?
There were a couple of dyno graphs and it makes good power or did. roughly 320 bhp at 5800rpm and 320 ft lb of torque.
Would I buy it, yes if the work needed can be factored into the price
Wishbones are not a difficult change, I've done them at home on a Chimaera (same items). Commonest corrosion is the outriggers that run down the outsides, under the car. Difficult to completely assess, but a borescope can help. These can be replaced in situ, budget about £2k.
But if the main rails are corroded, especially the upper ones which can't be accessed properly without the body coming off, you're talking many thousands for a complete refurb. Because with the body off, you'll likely end up with new balljoints and suspension all round too.
But if the main rails are corroded, especially the upper ones which can't be accessed properly without the body coming off, you're talking many thousands for a complete refurb. Because with the body off, you'll likely end up with new balljoints and suspension all round too.
SRT Hellcat said:
So I went to look at the Griff today.
It does need some TLC. Interior needs a bloody good clean and the exterior could do with a good mop and polish.
Could only run it for a short time as a fuel hose had split. Oil pressure looked fine and it sounded quit mechanically.
Noticeable powder coating flaking on the right hand wishbone with corrosion.
I popped down to a garage not far from me to see what they would charge for putting it on a ramp to inspect.
They saw the Griff just over two years ago for a clutch which they did not do as they said it needs a new chassis.
Who are the go to guys for a new chassis ?
Also the right hand wiper switch was super floppy. Where would you recommend getting one from ?
There were a couple of dyno graphs and it makes good power or did. roughly 320 bhp at 5800rpm and 320 ft lb of torque.
Would I buy it, yes if the work needed can be factored into the price
Wiper switch - Vauxhall Cavalier Mk 3 - E.bay.It does need some TLC. Interior needs a bloody good clean and the exterior could do with a good mop and polish.
Could only run it for a short time as a fuel hose had split. Oil pressure looked fine and it sounded quit mechanically.
Noticeable powder coating flaking on the right hand wishbone with corrosion.
I popped down to a garage not far from me to see what they would charge for putting it on a ramp to inspect.
They saw the Griff just over two years ago for a clutch which they did not do as they said it needs a new chassis.
Who are the go to guys for a new chassis ?
Also the right hand wiper switch was super floppy. Where would you recommend getting one from ?
There were a couple of dyno graphs and it makes good power or did. roughly 320 bhp at 5800rpm and 320 ft lb of torque.
Would I buy it, yes if the work needed can be factored into the price
Belle is correct, I recently took the body off the chassis and although the chassis was basically OK it just needed a couple of welded patches the other bits and pieces that you replace i.e suspension, brakes, fuel lines etc. etc.soon mount up. To give you some idea see:
https://www.bertram-hill.com/body-lift-single-hand...
https://www.bertram-hill.com/body-lift-single-hand...
Many thanks for all your replies and the detailed breakdown of what is involved.
I think the first thing to do is get it up on a ramp and establish if it is just the wishbones and outriggers that require replacement which might be viable.
A new chassis is going to run into big money very quickly.
Very disappointed really. The car was not as described but that is often the case.
The paint was described as 10 out of 10. Well there is a bubble on the nose about 2 inches diameter. Could probably live with that. Also on the drivers side cill the paint has micro blisters. Would have to give it to someone to properly detail including a proper clean of all of the interior. Also 4 point harnesses, no seat belts which are a pain IMO.
I think the first thing to do is get it up on a ramp and establish if it is just the wishbones and outriggers that require replacement which might be viable.
A new chassis is going to run into big money very quickly.
Very disappointed really. The car was not as described but that is often the case.
The paint was described as 10 out of 10. Well there is a bubble on the nose about 2 inches diameter. Could probably live with that. Also on the drivers side cill the paint has micro blisters. Would have to give it to someone to properly detail including a proper clean of all of the interior. Also 4 point harnesses, no seat belts which are a pain IMO.
Its a buyers market at the moment and plenty of good cars on sale. I would tend to look at a few cars more before parting with your hard earned.
From experience if you can see several known problems there will be many more that will crawl out of the woodwork later. I would personally not touch a car that has been unused for a long while unless it was priced accordingly. I.e very cheap!
From experience if you can see several known problems there will be many more that will crawl out of the woodwork later. I would personally not touch a car that has been unused for a long while unless it was priced accordingly. I.e very cheap!
Over 15 years ago and when these pages were used far more there were plenty of chassis that had corrosion on the top chassis rails directly underneath the exhaust manifolds due to powdercoat breaking down due to the extreme heat they are subjected to. Often the best way to inspect this vital area is to take front wheels off and inspect via the wheel arches. Basically look at the top wishbone rear lug area where the wishbones join those main top chassis rails.
I remember many chassis requiring replacement of that part of the rails which requires a body off resto and expert welding normally placing chassis in a jig.
So in my personal opinion always check those chassis rails as the corrosion eats into the steel there and makes that area rather weak even if the rails are still intact.
If I ever bought another Tvr I’d not buy anything without a chassis resto and even if it has new riggers repaired via a body on job i’d be very suspicious there are other areas of the chassis close to or requiring further attention unless it’s led a charmed life and barely seen rain which in truth is very rare.
I’ve been a huge supporter of TVR for many years but unfortunately many are sold with these problems having not been addressed which for the next owner becomes there problem.
You have been warned.
Conversely if the car is priced accordingly and you have the skills and time to take body off and do the job properly it’s actually a very rewarding thing to do and can give the car a new lease of life for years to come.
It’s very true to say the early 4.5 engines were a sweet spot but in truth many 4.6 (later engines) and even the 5.0 engines when rebuilt are equal or even more powerful than those early 4.5 engines so I wouldn’t put much store in owning the earlier engined cars as actually being more powerful.
I remember many chassis requiring replacement of that part of the rails which requires a body off resto and expert welding normally placing chassis in a jig.
So in my personal opinion always check those chassis rails as the corrosion eats into the steel there and makes that area rather weak even if the rails are still intact.
If I ever bought another Tvr I’d not buy anything without a chassis resto and even if it has new riggers repaired via a body on job i’d be very suspicious there are other areas of the chassis close to or requiring further attention unless it’s led a charmed life and barely seen rain which in truth is very rare.
I’ve been a huge supporter of TVR for many years but unfortunately many are sold with these problems having not been addressed which for the next owner becomes there problem.
You have been warned.
Conversely if the car is priced accordingly and you have the skills and time to take body off and do the job properly it’s actually a very rewarding thing to do and can give the car a new lease of life for years to come.
It’s very true to say the early 4.5 engines were a sweet spot but in truth many 4.6 (later engines) and even the 5.0 engines when rebuilt are equal or even more powerful than those early 4.5 engines so I wouldn’t put much store in owning the earlier engined cars as actually being more powerful.
Ob my last Chimaera, and my current Griff, those rails under the exhaust manifolds were areas I carefully examined (as much as possible!). Shortly after getting them, I wrapped heat-reflective matting around those sections held on by stainless steel ties.
As engines mounts age (mine are now replaced), the manifolds can get very close and can even touch the rails, rubbing and burning off the powder coating. Water (rain or just from washing) runs down this area.
As engines mounts age (mine are now replaced), the manifolds can get very close and can even touch the rails, rubbing and burning off the powder coating. Water (rain or just from washing) runs down this area.
Thanks once again for your replies and wisdom.
The appeal I suppose is that the car is one of a few built with the 4.5 engine but looking through the history file it had to be replaced.
It is 34 years old and does not appear to have had any chassis work in all those years.
I do not posses the hand skills to replace the chassis myself and as said this could well be a big money pit.
It is a shame but I think the sensible thing is to leave well alone.
The appeal I suppose is that the car is one of a few built with the 4.5 engine but looking through the history file it had to be replaced.
It is 34 years old and does not appear to have had any chassis work in all those years.
I do not posses the hand skills to replace the chassis myself and as said this could well be a big money pit.
It is a shame but I think the sensible thing is to leave well alone.
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