Discussion
I'm looking at d2 td5's as something to get around in if the weathers bad we live very rural. Also need to tow a dobbin box and my race shuttle, as well as get me out shooting. Budgets not too much of an issue and I could buy a much newer disco 3 or 4 but I'm concerned about the big bills associated with them. Hence looking at nice older td5's is the complexity of the newer cars helping to keep the price of these older cars up?
Edited to add we've got a Fl2 for these duties at the moment and although it's ok it doesn't really have sufficient mass to tow with
Edited to add we've got a Fl2 for these duties at the moment and although it's ok it doesn't really have sufficient mass to tow with
Edited by 
boy on Thursday 6th October 17:29
boy on Thursday 6th October 17:29boy said: I'm looking at d2 td5's as something to get around in if the weathers bad we live very rural. Also need to tow a dobbin box and my race shuttle, as well as get me out shooting. Budgets not too much of an issue and I could buy a much newer disco 3 or 4 but I'm concerned about the big bills associated with them. Hence looking at nice older td5's is the complexity of the newer cars helping to keep the price of these older cars up?
Edited to add we've got a Fl2 for these duties at the moment and although it's ok it doesn't really have sufficient mass to tow with
What do you want to know? Edited to add we've got a Fl2 for these duties at the moment and although it's ok it doesn't really have sufficient mass to tow with
Edited by boy on Thursday 6th October 17:29
boy on Thursday 6th October 17:29Main issue with D2s is chassis rust. Mainly affects the rear part of the chassis. Later models are better.
TD5 engine is a nice lump and has a few common issues. Oil in the injector loom is very common. Solved by fitting a face lifted part.
Leaks ar common too.
Face lift models command more money especially in ES Auto trim.
You will pay more for a D2 in winter, but that's the same with any 4x4. Be prepared t travel to get a good D2. Also be quick too as good ones go very quickly. Decent ex samples go for £4k and upwards.
As above - anything less than 3K will need *some* fettling, either cosmetically or in the form of odd niggles and quirks that you either live with or try to get fixed. Later is generally better. Condition and evidence of regular maintenance is more of an issue than the number on the odometer.
They were complex for their time, but compared to D3 and D4 they are simpler and easier for DIY mechanics and local garages to deal with. Parts are cheap and they are fairly easy to work on. I love mine and would buy another - just be aware that they're the kind of vehicles that reward good maintenance and punish owners who don't look after them. Be certain that the example you are looking at has been looked after and you won't go far wrong.
- Check engine for signs of head gasket failure (bubbles in coolant expansion bottle when revved, rock-hard coolant hoses). Cheap to fix in terms of parts IF the head is okay - if the head isn't okay then it could be expensive.
- Find one that has recently had it's clutch/flywheel changed - or better still a lower mileage one that's a while away from that. Expensive bill - but no different to any other diesel car/4x4/van with DMF fitted (pretty much all of them now).
- Look at the chassis - surface rust is one thing, but you don't want to see rot setting into the rear half of the frame. Expensive.
- Check all the electrics work and that the warning lights all go out on start-up. Annoying rather than expensive - often electrical gremlins.
- The engine should run smoothly - misfires are probably oil in the injector loom (£35 and 30 mins to fix).
- Gearbox should be smooth(ish) for a Landy and not clunk or whine too much - same goes for differential noises when accelerating or decelerating - having said that my rear diff has howled since I bought the thing and not given up yet (I do change the fluids regularly).
More details on this thread from a while ago.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Other than those issues (by no means unique to the Disco) - look your intended purchase over with the same care that you would with any other car and you won't go far wrong. You see hundreds of older ones knocking about (mine included) which wouldn't be the case if they were all money-pits.
They were complex for their time, but compared to D3 and D4 they are simpler and easier for DIY mechanics and local garages to deal with. Parts are cheap and they are fairly easy to work on. I love mine and would buy another - just be aware that they're the kind of vehicles that reward good maintenance and punish owners who don't look after them. Be certain that the example you are looking at has been looked after and you won't go far wrong.
- Check engine for signs of head gasket failure (bubbles in coolant expansion bottle when revved, rock-hard coolant hoses). Cheap to fix in terms of parts IF the head is okay - if the head isn't okay then it could be expensive.
- Find one that has recently had it's clutch/flywheel changed - or better still a lower mileage one that's a while away from that. Expensive bill - but no different to any other diesel car/4x4/van with DMF fitted (pretty much all of them now).
- Look at the chassis - surface rust is one thing, but you don't want to see rot setting into the rear half of the frame. Expensive.
- Check all the electrics work and that the warning lights all go out on start-up. Annoying rather than expensive - often electrical gremlins.
- The engine should run smoothly - misfires are probably oil in the injector loom (£35 and 30 mins to fix).
- Gearbox should be smooth(ish) for a Landy and not clunk or whine too much - same goes for differential noises when accelerating or decelerating - having said that my rear diff has howled since I bought the thing and not given up yet (I do change the fluids regularly).
More details on this thread from a while ago.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Other than those issues (by no means unique to the Disco) - look your intended purchase over with the same care that you would with any other car and you won't go far wrong. You see hundreds of older ones knocking about (mine included) which wouldn't be the case if they were all money-pits.
bakerstreet said:
What do you want to know?
Main issue with D2s is chassis rust. Mainly affects the rear part of the chassis. Later models are better.
TD5 engine is a nice lump and has a few common issues. Oil in the injector loom is very common. Solved by fitting a face lifted part.
Leaks ar common too.
Face lift models command more money especially in ES Auto trim.
You will pay more for a D2 in winter, but that's the same with any 4x4. Be prepared t travel to get a good D2. Also be quick too as good ones go very quickly. Decent ex samples go for £4k and upwards.
This pretty much.Main issue with D2s is chassis rust. Mainly affects the rear part of the chassis. Later models are better.
TD5 engine is a nice lump and has a few common issues. Oil in the injector loom is very common. Solved by fitting a face lifted part.
Leaks ar common too.
Face lift models command more money especially in ES Auto trim.
You will pay more for a D2 in winter, but that's the same with any 4x4. Be prepared t travel to get a good D2. Also be quick too as good ones go very quickly. Decent ex samples go for £4k and upwards.
I have a 52 plate TD5 ES, bloody love the thing.
I've had to do quite a few bits to it (new Rad, top hose, head gasket etc) but that's because she wasn't the greatest example in the first place.
Every time I think about changing her I soon stop after going out for a long drive.
£4,000 and up as said will keep you in good territory, if I do change it then it'll likely be another D2.
Something like this http://www.stocksfieldmotorcompany.com/used-cars/l...
g7jtk said:
Something like this http://www.stocksfieldmotorcompany.com/used-cars/l...
That's exactly what I don't want. boy said: That's exactly what I don't want.
That's the thing with Discos - you can have a wide range of examples from the family hack used 99% on the road which is pretty much standard and unmodified - ranging to the bolted together full-on 'one-life-live-it' variety linked above. My one was a farmer's family hack - so was pretty battered but generally well maintained mechanically due to the guy needing it as a daily-driver. He'd had it for 12 years and had invested money in keeping it on the road - so knew every nut and bolt and quirk of the vehicle - so I was happy to buy it from him and it hasn't bitten me yet.
If I had to get another one and was in your position I'd lean towards something like this below. Road-going example (looks like) - not many signs of load-lugging in the boot/rear and generally quite straight and tidy. (ignore the price - it's WAAAAY inflated for the year/miles/spec)
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2016...
A more realistically priced example would be something like this (below). Had lots of stuff already done according to the ad (so long as it actually has).
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2016...
Let us know how you get on.
LandRoverManiac said:
That's the thing with Discos - you can have a wide range of examples from the family hack used 99% on the road which is pretty much standard and unmodified - ranging to the bolted together full-on 'one-life-live-it' variety linked above.
My one was a farmer's family hack - so was pretty battered but generally well maintained mechanically due to the guy needing it as a daily-driver. He'd had it for 12 years and had invested money in keeping it on the road - so knew every nut and bolt and quirk of the vehicle - so I was happy to buy it from him and it hasn't bitten me yet.
If I had to get another one and was in your position I'd lean towards something like this below. Road-going example (looks like) - not many signs of load-lugging in the boot/rear and generally quite straight and tidy. (ignore the price - it's WAAAAY inflated for the year/miles/spec)
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2016...
A more realistically priced example would be something like this (below). Had lots of stuff already done according to the ad (so long as it actually has).
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2016...
Let us know how you get on.
Thanks for taking the time to reply. Something along the lines of those is what I'm after. My one was a farmer's family hack - so was pretty battered but generally well maintained mechanically due to the guy needing it as a daily-driver. He'd had it for 12 years and had invested money in keeping it on the road - so knew every nut and bolt and quirk of the vehicle - so I was happy to buy it from him and it hasn't bitten me yet.
If I had to get another one and was in your position I'd lean towards something like this below. Road-going example (looks like) - not many signs of load-lugging in the boot/rear and generally quite straight and tidy. (ignore the price - it's WAAAAY inflated for the year/miles/spec)
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2016...
A more realistically priced example would be something like this (below). Had lots of stuff already done according to the ad (so long as it actually has).
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2016...
Let us know how you get on.
I advertised mine on here on Sunday. Priced sensibly (in my opinion) for the condition of the car. It sold within 12 hours - I had half a dozen genuine enquiries and 3 viewings arranged for today - all of whom wanted to take the car back with them. No one mentioned negotiating on the price - which can only mean I wasn't asking enough in the first place 
B.J.W said:
Hainey said:
Sounds like someone got a good deal!
You price a car to sell, not to sit in the classifieds forever collecting dust.Unless you consider greater than 12 hrs from posting to sold 'gathering dust' however.
You got a sale at a price you wanted though and surely thats the main thing.
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