Classic Range Rover - Am I mad?
Discussion
Hi All
I've not posted in this bit before I dont think!
I'm thinking of buying a classic Range Rover. I dont know much about them but was talking to a specialist earlier and I think we narrowed it down to a big engined petrol model with non air suspension. I think these are based on the old Rover V8?
I think main thing to look out for is chassis corrosion? I have a distant memory of head gasket issues? Is there anything else to look out for?
I'm looking for something reliable that will enable me to waft in comfort around ski resorts. If I do go for one I have a few mods in mind - suspension, remote engine start and decent winter tyres being a few things.
Are there any good forums?
Apologies for all the questions!
I've not posted in this bit before I dont think!
I'm thinking of buying a classic Range Rover. I dont know much about them but was talking to a specialist earlier and I think we narrowed it down to a big engined petrol model with non air suspension. I think these are based on the old Rover V8?
I think main thing to look out for is chassis corrosion? I have a distant memory of head gasket issues? Is there anything else to look out for?
I'm looking for something reliable that will enable me to waft in comfort around ski resorts. If I do go for one I have a few mods in mind - suspension, remote engine start and decent winter tyres being a few things.
Are there any good forums?
Apologies for all the questions!
The 'classic' Range Rover and the P38 (late 1990s) use the Rover V8. Both have beam axles, the P38 have air suspension. Range Rover Register is your best bet for advice.
I've recently seen a few classic Range Rovers on Facebook 4x4 pages where the owners struggle to give them away then break them. Not sure whether that is worse than them being chopped about for off-road use and destroyed that way.
I've recently seen a few classic Range Rovers on Facebook 4x4 pages where the owners struggle to give them away then break them. Not sure whether that is worse than them being chopped about for off-road use and destroyed that way.
Have a read through this by Dunk7:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
The newest RRC is now over 20 years old.
The later ones - post 1989ish - rust for fun.
Whilst many of the exterior visible panels are alloy the bonnet, both tailgates & all the under panels are steel. The factory anti-corrosion is not very good. Have a look for panels made by aftermarket suppliers will give you an idea of what they considered worth their while producing:
https://yrmit.co.uk/product-category/range-rover-c...
and
http://www.froggatts.co.uk/page32.html
The 3.5 V8 is virtually bombproof, the later 3.9 not quite so but properly looked after can rack up very high mileages. I don't know much about the 4.2 used in the LSE. The Rover V8 in its various sizes is used throughout the Classics.
None are noted for high mpg.
The diesels used were the 2.4VM and 2.5 VM followed by the 200TDi & the last used the 300TDi. The VMs are now rare & probably best avoided - although properly looked after were actually very good engines. Certain spares for the 200TDi engines are also problematic incl the cylinder heads - Turner Engineering will only supply subject to receipt of a sound exchange unit.
There are lot with engines from myriad other vehicles fitted as conversions, DIY & professional installs. Some are very good indeed & others are horrid. Spares availability can be a major issue. Again, probably best avoided.
I've owned mine since 1994 - it's a 1986 3.5EFi ZF auto on lpg - and if I couldn't weld it would have gone to the breakers years ago.
In many ways they are a big boys meccano kit, not difficult to work on, most parts are readily available, there are several very good internet forums with lots of 'how tos' (sadly many were seriously damaged by loss of photos due to photobucket's ransomware attack) & compared to later models which have more electronics are relatively simple to DIY.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
The newest RRC is now over 20 years old.
The later ones - post 1989ish - rust for fun.
Whilst many of the exterior visible panels are alloy the bonnet, both tailgates & all the under panels are steel. The factory anti-corrosion is not very good. Have a look for panels made by aftermarket suppliers will give you an idea of what they considered worth their while producing:
https://yrmit.co.uk/product-category/range-rover-c...
and
http://www.froggatts.co.uk/page32.html
The 3.5 V8 is virtually bombproof, the later 3.9 not quite so but properly looked after can rack up very high mileages. I don't know much about the 4.2 used in the LSE. The Rover V8 in its various sizes is used throughout the Classics.
None are noted for high mpg.
The diesels used were the 2.4VM and 2.5 VM followed by the 200TDi & the last used the 300TDi. The VMs are now rare & probably best avoided - although properly looked after were actually very good engines. Certain spares for the 200TDi engines are also problematic incl the cylinder heads - Turner Engineering will only supply subject to receipt of a sound exchange unit.
There are lot with engines from myriad other vehicles fitted as conversions, DIY & professional installs. Some are very good indeed & others are horrid. Spares availability can be a major issue. Again, probably best avoided.
I've owned mine since 1994 - it's a 1986 3.5EFi ZF auto on lpg - and if I couldn't weld it would have gone to the breakers years ago.
In many ways they are a big boys meccano kit, not difficult to work on, most parts are readily available, there are several very good internet forums with lots of 'how tos' (sadly many were seriously damaged by loss of photos due to photobucket's ransomware attack) & compared to later models which have more electronics are relatively simple to DIY.
Edited by paintman on Thursday 26th October 20:33
NorthDave said:
Hi All
I've not posted in this bit before I dont think!
I'm thinking of buying a classic Range Rover. I dont know much about them but was talking to a specialist earlier and I think we narrowed it down to a big engined petrol model with non air suspension. I think these are based on the old Rover V8?
I think main thing to look out for is chassis corrosion? I have a distant memory of head gasket issues? Is there anything else to look out for?
I'm looking for something reliable that will enable me to waft in comfort around ski resorts. If I do go for one I have a few mods in mind - suspension, remote engine start and decent winter tyres being a few things.
Are there any good forums?
Apologies for all the questions!
get on the range rover classic thread on here. several hours of reading and lots of knowledge. short answer - you arent madI've not posted in this bit before I dont think!
I'm thinking of buying a classic Range Rover. I dont know much about them but was talking to a specialist earlier and I think we narrowed it down to a big engined petrol model with non air suspension. I think these are based on the old Rover V8?
I think main thing to look out for is chassis corrosion? I have a distant memory of head gasket issues? Is there anything else to look out for?
I'm looking for something reliable that will enable me to waft in comfort around ski resorts. If I do go for one I have a few mods in mind - suspension, remote engine start and decent winter tyres being a few things.
Are there any good forums?
Apologies for all the questions!
Thanks all
Some great information. I've had a good read through Doug's rebuild - looked amazing but a little daunting!
I'm hoping the specialist I have found will sell me a solid car and I can then keep the relationship going with him to keep it maintained. I know he waxoils the chassis so hopefully this will keep some of the rust at bay!
If I go through with it I will upload some pictures. I'm off to find the classic range rover thread now.
Some great information. I've had a good read through Doug's rebuild - looked amazing but a little daunting!
I'm hoping the specialist I have found will sell me a solid car and I can then keep the relationship going with him to keep it maintained. I know he waxoils the chassis so hopefully this will keep some of the rust at bay!
If I go through with it I will upload some pictures. I'm off to find the classic range rover thread now.
NorthDave said:
Thanks all
Some great information. I've had a good read through Doug's rebuild - looked amazing but a little daunting!
I'm hoping the specialist I have found will sell me a solid car and I can then keep the relationship going with him to keep it maintained. I know he waxoils the chassis so hopefully this will keep some of the rust at bay!
If I go through with it I will upload some pictures. I'm off to find the classic range rover thread now.
It sounds like you are buying one for an investment. Be warned that if you send it to a specialist for every fault, then it will soon become quite expensive. Some great information. I've had a good read through Doug's rebuild - looked amazing but a little daunting!
I'm hoping the specialist I have found will sell me a solid car and I can then keep the relationship going with him to keep it maintained. I know he waxoils the chassis so hopefully this will keep some of the rust at bay!
If I go through with it I will upload some pictures. I'm off to find the classic range rover thread now.
As others have said, body and chassis rust are the major issues. Don't expect the mechanicals and the drive train to be perfect either. Look how many companies there are who specialise in Land Rover Gearbox repair and refurbishment. That should give you a clue
Waxoyl is a little old hat now. Have a look at the Buzzweld Products. Now becoming very popular in Land Rover circles.
bakerstreet said:
It sounds like you are buying one for an investment. Be warned that if you send it to a specialist for every fault, then it will soon become quite expensive.
As others have said, body and chassis rust are the major issues. Don't expect the mechanicals and the drive train to be perfect either. Look how many companies there are who specialise in Land Rover Gearbox repair and refurbishment. That should give you a clue
Waxoyl is a little old hat now. Have a look at the Buzzweld Products. Now becoming very popular in Land Rover circles.
Not really buying for investment - I just want something which is reliable whilst being good in the snow and nice to cruise about in. Maintenance doesn't bother me much, being stranded by the side of the road does.As others have said, body and chassis rust are the major issues. Don't expect the mechanicals and the drive train to be perfect either. Look how many companies there are who specialise in Land Rover Gearbox repair and refurbishment. That should give you a clue
Waxoyl is a little old hat now. Have a look at the Buzzweld Products. Now becoming very popular in Land Rover circles.
If whatever I buy doesn't depreciate much then that would be a bonus.
NorthDave said:
Hi All
I'm looking for something reliable that will enable me to waft in comfort around ski resorts. If I do go for one I have a few mods in mind - suspension, remote engine start and decent winter tyres being a few things.
I imagine you'll have already thought of this but get the one with the best chassis and protect it as much as you can, I can imagine there will be a lot grit/salt about that could exacerbate the problem!I'm looking for something reliable that will enable me to waft in comfort around ski resorts. If I do go for one I have a few mods in mind - suspension, remote engine start and decent winter tyres being a few things.
good luck though, the mental image of driving around ski resorts in a Classic Range Rover is very appealing.
NorthDave said:
Not really buying for investment - I just want something which is reliable whilst being good in the snow and nice to cruise about in. Maintenance doesn't bother me much, being stranded by the side of the road does.
If whatever I buy doesn't depreciate much then that would be a bonus.
Older more traditional Land Rover models are usually pretty robust. But they are built in an old fashioned way. Meaning they require more regular maintenance with many tasks being quite labour intensive. They shouldn’t by their nature be unreliable. If whatever I buy doesn't depreciate much then that would be a bonus.
Buy on condition. All of the oily bits can be replaced pretty easily. Body and/or chassis get more expensive and harder to sort out. But they are pretty simple cars. So very easy to check out yourself.
V8’s most since the early/mid 1980’s will be autos. Manuals rare. V8’s are smoother, quieter, faster and more refined. 3.9’s go better than the 3.5’s.
Expect 12-17mpg.
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