Alfa spider JTS possible purchase
Discussion
Hi all I’m new to this forum. I recently sold my Tuscan and need a more affordable convertible that my wife can drive. The Tuscan scared her!
I’ve been looking at spiders for around 10-15k.
I need something mostly reliable, I don’t mind minor issues but am worried about buying a money pit. What are the obvious pit falls and red flags. I’ll be looking at 5-10k miles a year. Is an Alfa in this price point going to serve me well. It’s a itch I would love to scratch but next to
Nothing about the marque.
Second question, I need a rear parcel shelf for my dogs. I know there is space behind the seats and the rear bulkhead. How wide is it.
Any constructive comments gratefully received
Lee
I’ve been looking at spiders for around 10-15k.
I need something mostly reliable, I don’t mind minor issues but am worried about buying a money pit. What are the obvious pit falls and red flags. I’ll be looking at 5-10k miles a year. Is an Alfa in this price point going to serve me well. It’s a itch I would love to scratch but next to
Nothing about the marque.
Second question, I need a rear parcel shelf for my dogs. I know there is space behind the seats and the rear bulkhead. How wide is it.
Any constructive comments gratefully received
Lee
I had a 156 with the 2.0 JTS engine for 7 years until June last year.
The JTS was an early direct injection engine, prone to carbon buildup on the inlet valves. I think mine was suffering from this a bit but I never got it walnut blasted. It ate coil packs and towards the end of my ownership (about 120,000 miles) was using a lot of oil. It didn't seem to be burning it, the exhaust was quite clean, and there were no big leaks so I'm not sure where it was going!
The cambelt interval was reduced from 72000 miles to 36000 miles after a spate of failures, don't neglect this. This was the car I learnt to do a cambelt service on - don't forget to replace waterpump, idler pulleys, tensioners, balance and aux belts while you're at it. I still have the cam locking tools and the tensioner adjustment tools, PM me if you get the car and you want them - no charge but a donation to charity would be appreciated!
Front upper wishbones don't last long although this might be specific to the 156. Check rear shock spring pans, they rust through. One of mine collapsed and the spring wore a groove in a fairly new tyre. Speaking of which I always found Michelin tyres to be far better than Pirelli.
Expect electrical problems - dirty connectors can causes Motor Control System Failures (actually lots of things can cause MCSF failures) and weird behaviour - at one point my car insisted the outside temp was -45C, fixed by cleaning the big plug that goes to the passenger door (the temperature sensor is in the passenger door mirror). I wouldn't have cared except the AC doesn't work below a certain temperature.
Despite all the problems I really enjoyed the car, I've not been motivated to learn to work on cars before this one. Get some RIBE bits and Torx sockets/drivers and be prepared to tinker!
The JTS was an early direct injection engine, prone to carbon buildup on the inlet valves. I think mine was suffering from this a bit but I never got it walnut blasted. It ate coil packs and towards the end of my ownership (about 120,000 miles) was using a lot of oil. It didn't seem to be burning it, the exhaust was quite clean, and there were no big leaks so I'm not sure where it was going!
The cambelt interval was reduced from 72000 miles to 36000 miles after a spate of failures, don't neglect this. This was the car I learnt to do a cambelt service on - don't forget to replace waterpump, idler pulleys, tensioners, balance and aux belts while you're at it. I still have the cam locking tools and the tensioner adjustment tools, PM me if you get the car and you want them - no charge but a donation to charity would be appreciated!
Front upper wishbones don't last long although this might be specific to the 156. Check rear shock spring pans, they rust through. One of mine collapsed and the spring wore a groove in a fairly new tyre. Speaking of which I always found Michelin tyres to be far better than Pirelli.
Expect electrical problems - dirty connectors can causes Motor Control System Failures (actually lots of things can cause MCSF failures) and weird behaviour - at one point my car insisted the outside temp was -45C, fixed by cleaning the big plug that goes to the passenger door (the temperature sensor is in the passenger door mirror). I wouldn't have cared except the AC doesn't work below a certain temperature.
Despite all the problems I really enjoyed the car, I've not been motivated to learn to work on cars before this one. Get some RIBE bits and Torx sockets/drivers and be prepared to tinker!
Thanks for your comments. I would want something that doesn’t have too many miles on the clock so hopefully can avoid some of the costly repairs.
Was thinking 4 cylinder but not ruling out a V6.
Something like the link below, maybe.
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/2025111178...
Was thinking 4 cylinder but not ruling out a V6.
Something like the link below, maybe.
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/2025111178...
lee02 said:
Thanks for your comments. I would want something that doesn t have too many miles on the clock so hopefully can avoid some of the costly repairs.
Was thinking 4 cylinder but not ruling out a V6.
Something like the link below, maybe.
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/2025111178...
I thought you meant a 939 too, for your budget you'll still get a really good 916. I prefer the 4 cylinder in a Spider (I've got an early Phase 1 Spider Twin Spark) as it is just enough for the chassis, a V6 in a Spider is in my view too much due to the floppy chassis and engine mass. The Spider drives a lot lot better with the smaller engine.Was thinking 4 cylinder but not ruling out a V6.
Something like the link below, maybe.
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/2025111178...
Parts are becoming an issue and the JTS only comes in a Phase 3 (apart from a very few of the last Phase 2) which can be tricky for body parts plus suspension (it's got different shocks on the front). They don't rust as badly as people think but can rust in places not immediately obvious and hard to spot without removing things like sill covers.
Sweet spot really is a late Phase 1 (without 2Si ABS) or any of the Phase 2, I also prefer the Twin Spark over the JTS as alluded to in a post above it's just simpler with plenty of parts/tools availability. The early JTS doesn't have the greatest reputation.
Would highly recommend one, good modern classic.
I was in the market for a Spider the other year and ended ups buying a 3.0 GTV but still hanker after a good spider. The blue one you link to is a nice car.
As others have said the 3.0 is often quoted as being too much for the Spider chassis top cope with but it will make a lovely noise!
The 3.0 can get through clutch's in 50k miles so worth checking on the blue one. My GTV has 51k and will be needing a clutch this year or next depending on how much it get's used this summer.
Parts are getting harder to source but there are lots of very good specialists who seem to have most mechanical items in stock although you might have to buy from several companies at a time if you buying a few bits.
Rust is an issue if they have been driven through the winter and salty roads but most these days are toys and tend to be looked after. A cheap car will be cheap for a reason.
Orginal radios sell for £400 so if it hasn't got one and you want to put it back to standard bear this in mind.
Final thing, a Wizzard exhaust sounds amazing on the V6. Mine came with an Alfaholics system but I felt it was a little subdued.
As others have said the 3.0 is often quoted as being too much for the Spider chassis top cope with but it will make a lovely noise!
The 3.0 can get through clutch's in 50k miles so worth checking on the blue one. My GTV has 51k and will be needing a clutch this year or next depending on how much it get's used this summer.
Parts are getting harder to source but there are lots of very good specialists who seem to have most mechanical items in stock although you might have to buy from several companies at a time if you buying a few bits.
Rust is an issue if they have been driven through the winter and salty roads but most these days are toys and tend to be looked after. A cheap car will be cheap for a reason.
Orginal radios sell for £400 so if it hasn't got one and you want to put it back to standard bear this in mind.
Final thing, a Wizzard exhaust sounds amazing on the V6. Mine came with an Alfaholics system but I felt it was a little subdued.
Edited by curvature on Wednesday 28th January 09:28
I bought a 916 spider a nearly 3 years ago as a last minute Le Mans wagon, planning to sell on return. A phase 2 twin spark.
It was a pretty much one owner car for the last 20 years doing few miles a year. Took a punt at £3k and it ran faultlessly to France. It then sort of never got sold and I ve probably spent around £2k refreshing it with new suspension, cam belt, tyres, stainless exhaust etc and then bought another for trim, wheels and seats.
Most of the work I‘ve done myself, pretty easy to work on. But for some I have used my local guys except for cam belts as they couldn’t remember the last time they used the locking pins so couldn’t find them. .
It is a great car for local stuff and tbh, it would be great for a Europe trip. Lots of room for luggage and a large fuel tank. This year I m going to try a strut and wing brace to see if it tightens it up a bit. The previous posters are right, the 2 litre apart from noise is a better package. As are the smaller wheels on our roads!
Not sure where you are but Gary at Totally Alfa in Devon is the 916 expert with loads of parts. Value for money and looks, I think they are great value.
It was a pretty much one owner car for the last 20 years doing few miles a year. Took a punt at £3k and it ran faultlessly to France. It then sort of never got sold and I ve probably spent around £2k refreshing it with new suspension, cam belt, tyres, stainless exhaust etc and then bought another for trim, wheels and seats.
Most of the work I‘ve done myself, pretty easy to work on. But for some I have used my local guys except for cam belts as they couldn’t remember the last time they used the locking pins so couldn’t find them. .
It is a great car for local stuff and tbh, it would be great for a Europe trip. Lots of room for luggage and a large fuel tank. This year I m going to try a strut and wing brace to see if it tightens it up a bit. The previous posters are right, the 2 litre apart from noise is a better package. As are the smaller wheels on our roads!
Not sure where you are but Gary at Totally Alfa in Devon is the 916 expert with loads of parts. Value for money and looks, I think they are great value.
Edited by ric p on Thursday 29th January 10:48
Edited by ric p on Thursday 29th January 10:51
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