The 360 Modena and Spider have a 90-degree V8 engine mounted longitudinally in the chassis. It’s a 3,586cc unit with a bore and stroke of 85.0x79.0mm, developing 400hp at 8,500rpm and 275lb ft of torque at 4,750rpm. The engine is made from aluminium with Nikasil liners and titanium connecting rods. It has five valves per cylinder, twin overhead camshafts and has a compression ratio of 11.0:1. A Bosch Motronic ME7.3 ECU is used with single spark plug per cylinder and Bosch electronic injection. This gives a fly by wire throttle system.
For the Challenge Stradale, Ferrari increased the engine’s compression ratio to 11.2:1, which helped to increase power to 425hp at 8,500rpm. Torque remained unchanged from the standard Modena’s. Both the standard and Challenge Stradale models have a variable back pressure exhaust system.
There were two transmission choices with the 360: a six-speed manual and the F1 automated manual that did away with the clutch pedal and gear lever and replaced them with steering wheel-mounted paddle shifters. For the 360, Ferrari improved the F1 set-up with electronics that automatically adjusted the throttle opening when it sensed the driver changing up or down the gearbox. This helped smooth out some of the jerkiness of the previous 355’s set-up, though some owners still report that earlier 360s need some familiarisation to drive smoothly,
Manual and F1 transmissions were available
Ferrari improved the F1 gearbox’s software for the Challenge Stradale, delivering quicker gearchanges. This is a popular upgrade for pre-2003 Modena and Spider versions of the 360 with the F1 gearbox and owners report the car is greatly improved with the CS software. Cars built from 2003 onwards had improved gearbox control electronics fitted. For the CS, Ferrari also provided a button to choose between Sport and Race settings for the traction control, the Sport setting raising the limit at which the traction control would intervene and the Race mode turning it off altogether. Race mode also gives a Launch Control function.
In both the standard and CS models, the gearbox is a very solid, reliable unit. In cars with a manual gearbox, which account for about 30 per cent of all 360s built, the change form third to second can become notchy due to a worn linkage. The single-plate clutch in a manual car should last around 30,000 miles, but F1 cars may need a new clutch sooner if used in town traffic a lot. Replacing a clutch will cost around £2,000 at a good independent, but one PHer recommends haggling with official Ferrari dealers over labour rates as some will negotiate to compete with independents.
The engine is also a very strong unit and suffers very few problems as long as it’s cared for. Regular use is highly recommended rather than the car being mothballed for long periods. If you do leave the car parked for lengthy periods, make sure it is hooked up to a trickle charger to prevent the battery being drained. Jump starting a 360 on its battery can seriously damage the engine’s electronics. Some owners report the original equipment trickle charger from Ferrari is not much use, so a good aftermarket charger is best.
Some rattly noise from the V8 motor on start up could be the tappets, but it should quieten down as soon as the oil warms up. If not, it could be a sign of a car that has led a hard life. Another noise to listen out for is a rattle from the butterfly valve. Changing a cambelt costs around £500 and is relatively straightforward as the engine does not have to be removed, unlike the 355. A new cambelt is needed every four years.
Some owners opt for a sports exhaust, which can make the 360 too loud for longer journeys or track days. Removing the catalytic convertor frees up only a very small amount of extra power and can result in an MOT failure, so it’s not worth the risk.
Check the service record for regular oil changes and all service work being carried out on time. Service intervals are every 6,000 miles, with a major service at 18,000 miles, but as many cars don’t cover this kind of mileage in a year or two also look for evidence the car has been serviced every 12 months. Look also for oil leaks from the cam covers and crank oil seal. These leaks may not show up as oil puddles underneath the car as the engine tray catches much of the oil, so inspect the engine bay carefully. Also look for signs of a worn or broken engine mount, though this is quite a rare fault and relatively cheap to fix.
Owner's view:
"The noise can only be described as intoxicating, but on long journeys the drone of the exhaust can become tiring. The outside temperature needs to be above 7C for the sensors to operate, so on cold winter days the car was inclined to go into ‘safe mode’ but was easily reset by turning off/on switch under the bonnet."
Andrew Wilson