Rounded torx head

[Defconluke]

As per the title really.
The small Torx-headed bolt that hold the brake disc on to the face of the hub wasn't in great condition and my attempts to remove it have been in vain so far, only helping to round the head even further.



I picked up a Torx removal set which seems to be no use what so ever so was contemplating my next move.

I could drill the head off and then try to remove the rest somehow - and given that I've only got access to hand tools, a drill and a dremel - this would be the most likely method to use but wondered if anybody else had any pearls of wisdom to share?

It may all be a futile exercise though as the brake carrier bolts (8mm hex) feel welded to the back of the hub too. I've got some Plusgas so will be using that to help and have a breaker bar to try and crack them off so it will be fingers crossed they don't shear trying to remove them.

[Pericoloso]

I'd try to loosen it off with a hammer and a small chisel.

It's probably not so tight as not to loosen off with suitable brute force,

I assume you will be able to buy a new Torx bolt .

[finlo]

When you get it out leave it out for next time.

[GreenV8S]

It's only to stop dirt getting behind the brake bell while the wheel is off, and doesn't need to be particularly tight.

Consider using Wera hex-plus keys/bits or similar in future - they are far less prone to stripping the head.

[Mr2Mike]

The disc looks utterly knackered anyway, so cut a slot in the top of the screw with a thin cutting disc in an angle grinder (which will cut into the disc) then use an impact driver with a flat screwdriver bit (the kind you use with a hammer).

[PositronicRay]

An impact screwdriver with the next size up torx or even a flat bit will get that out.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-pro-imp...

[Penelope Stopit]

Hammer an allen key into it

[Defconluke]

Thanks all for your contributions.
I'll look into the chisel and hammer & impact driver suggestions before starting a more drastic course of action with a drill or grinding disc.

P.s. Yes the brake disc is corroded and scored where I've had a sticking caliper. I have a full set of replacement brakes ready to go, have a new caliper on there already but I'm waiting until I can get the disc off to put the new pads on because I see no sense is wrecking new pads and having to buy twice.

Edited by Defconluke on Friday 16th March 18:00

[voicey]

I'd drill that out with a left handed drill bit.

[bearman68]

Take a torx driver. Something like this.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6pc-T40-Torx-Bit-Set-Lo...

Use a small lump hammer to really beat it into the end of the bolt. Show it no mercy.
Then try slackening / tightening it alternatively.
If it doesn't work and it shears off, drill it out.

No other realistic options from someone who does this all the time

[jjohnson23]

A tip to remember for next time is to fit the driver into the screw and give it a good whack with a hammer before attempting to undo it.
Due to their design,countersunk head screws are a sod to undo at the best of times.

[sunbeam alpine]

As others have said, I'd be giving it a massive whack with a hammer and a drift to "surprise" it - that will get it loose!

[Krikkit]

I'd just drill it out with an ordinary metal bit - it'll mean you might struggle to extract it, but it's only to help locate the disk. Leave the stub in the hub.

[DrDeAtH]

Drill the head off with a 8mm drill bit. The stub of the screw can the be gripped with mole grips and removed once the disc has been taken off.

[tapkaJohnD]

Weld a bolt onto the damaged one.
John

[2354519y]

Done that job today. Found the little screw had corroded into place on one side.
Fortunately still came out after a bit of force.

[2354519y]

Done that job today. Found the little screw had corroded into place on one side.
Fortunately still came out after a bit of force.