Heads are on ,Cams next.

[ZR1cliff]

Yesterday i was able to get the heads fitted,i am just waiting for some other parts then my next move is to fit the cams and time the motor up using the cam pins,in the photo you can see i have utilised some screwdrivers to hold the chains safe.

[pic]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y114/LoTu5/2005_0819cams0001.jpg[/pic]

[Ruby Rag Top]

Nice going Cliff, does this mean that you will be driving the Z to the Fairmile BBQ on friday next?

[ZR1cliff]

Ruby Rag Top said:

Nice going Cliff, does this mean that you will be driving the Z to the Fairmile BBQ on friday next?

Unfortunately no,one of the improvements ime making is to do away with the secondaries as they are a right pain in the A**e which means some work and developement on a new chip,hopefully ile have it up and running in time for winter

[ZR1cliff]

Here is where ive plugged the secondary holes using 16mm core plugs.

[Boosted LS1]

Cliff, instead of those screwdrivers couldn't you use a cable tie and hang a weight on the chain? I'd be a tad concerned that a screwdriver gets knocked.

Looking good though

Boosted.

[ZR1cliff]

Thanks for the advice Mike also what is the best cam lube to use in the UK.

[Boosted LS1]

ZR1cliff said:

Thanks for the advice Mike also what is the best cam lube to use in the UK.

Kent cams or Piper will no doubt be able to sell you something moly based. Make sure there is oil around the tappets and in the top end before you start her up. You can crank her over without the plugs fitted to get pressure. Real Steel may also have some lube for you. When do you think fire up time will be?

Boosted.

[c5ragtop]

It's all coming along nicely now, Cliff. Well done on your perserverance and good luck with the final stages. Perhaps we could have one of your famous Curry Nights when you turn that igniton key for the first time.

[Boosted LS1]

c5ragtop said:

It's all coming along nicely now, Cliff. Well done on your perserverance and good luck with the final stages. Perhaps we could have one of your famous Curry Nights when you turn that igniton key for the first time.

Bet he gets the shakes when he's cranking it really hard!

Boosted.

[ZR1cliff]

Boosted LS1 said:

c5ragtop said: It's all coming along nicely now, Cliff. Well done on your perserverance and good luck with the final stages. Perhaps we could have one of your famous Curry Nights when you turn that igniton key for the first time. Bet he gets the shakes when he's cranking it really hard! Boosted.

Bet you i do,ile give them a ring on the cam lube,and Richard the Ruby Murray night is a good idea

[te51cle]

You know it'll be a shame to put any oil near that super-clean machine ! Still, at least you know that there won't be any nasty leaks from stupid places this time...

[ZR1cliff]

te51cle said:

You know it'll be a shame to put any oil near that super-clean machine ! Still, at least you know that there won't be any nasty leaks from stupid places this time...

And not a drop of Black Mastic in sight

[ZR1cliff]

Practising cam install,main cog in place,



slide cam into main cog with oil holes and pin alignment hole facing upwards,do this at an angle then lay cam on to bearing surface,



When main retainer is installed the alignment pin can then be inserted thru retainer and into hole in cam, with the crank pin already in place and crank lined up and also all 4 cams with pins inserted timing is set.



At this stage the cogs can still be rotated on the cams until the chain is tensioned and locking plates,pins,washers and new cam bolts are fitted.

>> Edited by ZR1cliff on Saturday 20th August 18:47

[ZR1cliff]

One of the tools i lack are a couple of temporary chain tensioners,so ive had a go at making my own,here's how i did it,i started with a piece of waste metal i bought of the local machine shop for £2,took some measurements and drilled some holes.



Then i bought 2 bolts,2 nuts and 2 nylock nuts ,cost£2,got a freind to weld the nuts on the plates for a drink.
Total cost £9



Here they are fitted,because they are made heavy duty i will have to take great care in tightening the chain guide,ive put the nylock nut on the end to spread the load on the guide.

[franv8]

Nice job Cliff, don't know what grade of bolt you used but if it's just a standard bolt (unlikely to have any markings on the bolt head) be a little careful as they are a bit soft compared to graded, hi-tensile bolts (latter normally black finish). I'd probably just drop a little oil on the threads to help them not pick up. Harder bolts will have a marking like '14.4' on the head of the bolt.

Francis.

[ZR1cliff]

Good advise Fran ,ile put some oil on the thread before i start,luckily there is no real pressure on the bolt as it is just putting pressure on a alloy and nylon chain guide

>> Edited by ZR1cliff on Tuesday 23 August 16:51

[Boosted LS1]

Flipping heck, first we have a taxi driver (quoted from somebody else), now a cam guru and to boot he takes really good pics as well Are you going to send 'your mate' a build manual Cliff .

It's looking really good.

Boosted.

[ZR1Cliff]

Boosted LS1 said:

Flipping heck, first we have a taxi driver (quoted from somebody else), now a cam guru and to boot he takes really good pics as well Are you going to send 'your mate' a build manual Cliff . It's looking really good. Boosted.

Bloody good idea

[vetteheadracer]

Cliffy when you are finished you should do a technical article or more likely a series of articles for the club magazine and also the CCCUK website.
The website are looking to build a library of technical articles so that future Corvette owners will have a reference database to lookup those same old problems in.

[ZR1Cliff]

vetteheadracer said:

Cliffy when you are finished you should do a technical article or more likely a series of articles for the club magazine and also the CCCUK website. The website are looking to build a library of technical articles so that future Corvette owners will have a reference database to lookup those same old problems in.

If it works i will