C5 Wheel bearings
Discussion
Just got back from my long drive to Monte Carlo in the C5. Fantastic trip, got a great pic of the C5 on the pole starting position on the grid. I'll post it on here once I've figured out how to do it !! Just love that part of the world, car got attention everywhere.
One small prob though, and I would really appreciate any advice from members who may have had the same problem, before I get the tools out.
She developed a classic road speed dependant drone from (I think) the left side rear wheel. Sounds like a classic wheel bearing problem to me. Is it common on these things at 30K miles? Seem to be several replacement options, as it comes as an assembly with flange and hub, with abs sensor built in. OEM replacements seem to be about 5-600 USD for the rear, but theres a Timken bearings replacement from AutoZone for under 200 bucks. Anyone able to offer me any advice, helpful or otherwise, all is welcome!
One small prob though, and I would really appreciate any advice from members who may have had the same problem, before I get the tools out.
She developed a classic road speed dependant drone from (I think) the left side rear wheel. Sounds like a classic wheel bearing problem to me. Is it common on these things at 30K miles? Seem to be several replacement options, as it comes as an assembly with flange and hub, with abs sensor built in. OEM replacements seem to be about 5-600 USD for the rear, but theres a Timken bearings replacement from AutoZone for under 200 bucks. Anyone able to offer me any advice, helpful or otherwise, all is welcome!
Never heard of a C5 with wheel bearing problems, but that doesn't mean to say you aren't the first. Does the noise get faster slower with speed? Does it louder?
I would check the brake pads aren't binding as that is possible as 30K would probably be about the limit for an original set. I'd also check the tyre to ensure it is okay and inflated correctly.
Another thing to check would be the wheel nuts are torque'd up correctly.
Let us know the outcome.
I would check the brake pads aren't binding as that is possible as 30K would probably be about the limit for an original set. I'd also check the tyre to ensure it is okay and inflated correctly.
Another thing to check would be the wheel nuts are torque'd up correctly.
Let us know the outcome.
Cheers guys !
OK, it is road speed dependant, first noticeable around 20mph, increases in gain and frequency as you go faster. Makes no difference if in drive or Neutral, throttle on / off. Applying brakes or cornering makes no difference. Brakes work fine, no sticking on that I can detect. Tyre looks good to naked eye, and is correct pressure. All lug nuts correct torque.
Looks like some spannering at the weekend for me !!
OK, it is road speed dependant, first noticeable around 20mph, increases in gain and frequency as you go faster. Makes no difference if in drive or Neutral, throttle on / off. Applying brakes or cornering makes no difference. Brakes work fine, no sticking on that I can detect. Tyre looks good to naked eye, and is correct pressure. All lug nuts correct torque.
Looks like some spannering at the weekend for me !!
v8d said:
Just got back from my long drive to Monte Carlo in the C5. Fantastic trip, got a great pic of the C5 on the pole starting position on the grid. I'll post it on here once I've figured out how to do it !!
You'll need to upload the picture to a server and then do this: [pic] http:// www.yourserver.com [/pic] removing the 3 spaces I inserted.
If you don't have any server space, email me through my profile and I'll host the picture for you.

Cuban said:
v8d said:
Just got back from my long drive to Monte Carlo in the C5. Fantastic trip, got a great pic of the C5 on the pole starting position on the grid. I'll post it on here once I've figured out how to do it !!
You'll need to upload the picture to a server and then do this: [pic] http:// www.yourserver.com [/pic] removing the 3 spaces I inserted.
If you don't have any server space, email me through my profile and I'll host the picture for you.

You can also use webhosting sites like fotango (www.fotango.com) which allows you to store your pics on their server. You also get a neat bit of software that lets you send the files from your p.c. to the server which you have to download when you sign up.
Really does sound like a wheel bearing. Lift the offending corner of the car, place hands at 12 o clock and 6 o clock and try to rock the wheel on the hub. If it moves at the hub (and it isn't moving on other suspension bushes) it is either badly adjusted (don't know if bearings are flat or tapered on a Vette) or worn badly. If it doesn't move (which I would suspect given the mileage) it is probably just a pitted roller.
I'd just plan to renew bearings and leave the hub personally. If you are having a delay in getting the parts, strip the bearing and re-pack with grease and re-torque and see if it improves whilst you wait for bits - it should be a little quieter. While you are there, separate the ABS sensor at the hub and spray the connections with silicon connector protector or something as I found to my cost that these are susceptible to corrosion (and it's a new hub, not just a sensor) so it's worth keeping them protected.
Enjoy!
Kev.
I'd just plan to renew bearings and leave the hub personally. If you are having a delay in getting the parts, strip the bearing and re-pack with grease and re-torque and see if it improves whilst you wait for bits - it should be a little quieter. While you are there, separate the ABS sensor at the hub and spray the connections with silicon connector protector or something as I found to my cost that these are susceptible to corrosion (and it's a new hub, not just a sensor) so it's worth keeping them protected.
Enjoy!
Kev.
Thanks for that Seefive. Will have a proper butchers at the weekend. Do you know if its possible to just change the brgs? gotta be cheaper than changing the whole assy i would have thought. I have ordered the full set of C5 shop repair manuals from Ecklers, hopefully that will throw more light on how it all goes together (and comes apart!!)
Cheers.
Cheers.
I have never done bearings on a Vette (when my hub needed doing it was winter brrr), but on pretty much every other car I have owned, I have just changed bearings and not hubs when they get noisy - others may know of any Vette nuances. The only time I replaced compete hub and bearings was on my race cars due to the extraordinary corner loadings, the hubs would wear too, stuffing the new bearing pretty quickly again.
Basically, the bearing rollers run between the hub and the stub axle. In my experience, in a road car the wear normally occurs on the bearing roller / casing so there is no need to change the hub. You may need a specific puller for a Vette inner bearing but I do not really know. Ian Goss may be able to advise as Vettes are his day job - you could try a mail via Ian's profile - he is a very nice bloke and is also a very good engineer if you do not want to get your nails dirty!
Cheers!
Kev.
Basically, the bearing rollers run between the hub and the stub axle. In my experience, in a road car the wear normally occurs on the bearing roller / casing so there is no need to change the hub. You may need a specific puller for a Vette inner bearing but I do not really know. Ian Goss may be able to advise as Vettes are his day job - you could try a mail via Ian's profile - he is a very nice bloke and is also a very good engineer if you do not want to get your nails dirty!
Cheers!
Kev.
Thanks again for all the thoughts. I've just been out for a look. (Its been bugging me all day) Jacked up the rear, and sure enough, theres very noticeable play when grabbing the wheel. Took wheel off and had a good look round. looked fine, until I got the old 33mm socket onto the centre hub nut, and the damned thing was barely finger tight! Torqued it up to 150 ftlb and put it all back together. much less play now, but the noise hasnt gone away. But it has changed in sound so I guess that proves the effing thing is shot!
Any of you trade guys gonna give me a nice price on one or would it be better to get one from the US?
Cheers again guys,
V8D
Any of you trade guys gonna give me a nice price on one or would it be better to get one from the US?
Cheers again guys,
V8D
Oh dear. That's not good. I do not know the assembly, but was the retainer not a castle nut with a split pin hole through the stub axle? If there was a castle nut, there should have been a hole and a pin.
If not, it's possible that some foreign body got in the nut/washer area when it was assembled, and it wore away leaving the nut under torqued to come loose.
Sorry to hear about this. I hope that you can just press out/in new bearings rather than buying a complete hub and sensors.
If not, it's possible that some foreign body got in the nut/washer area when it was assembled, and it wore away leaving the nut under torqued to come loose.
Sorry to hear about this. I hope that you can just press out/in new bearings rather than buying a complete hub and sensors.
Just to wrap this one up, I know y'all were wondering how it turned out. I proved the point by using an oscilloscope and an accellerometer. The left side gave a horrible noisy spectrum signal, with a very large component of a frequency equal to revs per second times the number of balls in the race, and the right side was relatively silent. Ordered new hub/bearing assy from Autozone.com, $140 plus another 70 bucks to get it here so thats pretty good. Stripped down the rear suspension and removed the knuckle. All comes apart pretty easily. Hardest bit is getting the handrake mechanism back together. Bashed the old hub apart and sure enough, one big pothole in the outer race of the outer bearing ! Anyway, all went back together and is now silent ! Hurrah !! Jobs a good'un. So there you go, Probably just a bad bearing from new, and my antics on the Autoroute to Monaco finished the bugger off. Thanks again for all the advice and tips, much appreciated. I'm not such a C5 newbie now - Ha!
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