Caterham Battery question
Caterham Battery question
Author
Discussion

mwhwsmith

Original Poster:

5 posts

234 months

Wednesday 8th October 2014
quotequote all

I'm 3 months into my Caterham experience and the battery in my 2004 R300 has just given up the ghost - so I need a replacement and a little advice.

I have just removed the old battery: a Varley Red Top 25. So I was wondering what the wisdom is on:

a) Replace like-for-like - which is about 7Kg
b) Replace with smaller/lighter Varley Red Top 20 (5.4Kg)
c) Splash out a little more for something a lot lighter ie. a Lithium battery. I was looking at a Ballistic EVO2 12 cell (1.1Kg) or an RBC400 (<1.1Kg)

So my questions are:

a) Are the Lithium batteries up to the job? (especially when the weather is cold)
b) Has anyone any direct experience with them and can make a recommendation?
c) Anything else I shoudl consider?

Many thanks
Mike

framerateuk

2,849 posts

205 months

Thursday 9th October 2014
quotequote all
My Banner battery died a couple of weeks back.

I can't really offer much insight, but from what I've read, the lithium batteries are much lighter, but more expensive and if they do loose their charge, they're unlikely to work properly again.

Just for ease of fitting, I just ordered another Banner off Seven Speed. It came next day and was fitted on the weekend! Car powered up first time and has been on the conditioner ever since smile

DCL

1,228 posts

200 months

Thursday 9th October 2014
quotequote all
IMHO the Caterham is a hostile environment for batteries and it is not worth looking for an expensive solution - unless there's good reason such as competition. Best to use the tried and tested Banner, and replace it every few years if need be.

one eyed mick

1,189 posts

182 months

Thursday 9th October 2014
quotequote all
In alightly used car a battery cut out/isolater will help greatly ,the regular flat/recharge bit that kills most normal batteries ,caused usually by the imobiliser

teembo

32 posts

135 months

Thursday 9th October 2014
quotequote all
one eyed mick said:
In alightly used car a battery cut out/isolater will help greatly ,the regular flat/recharge bit that kills most normal batteries ,caused usually by the imobiliser
So would the battery master switch do this ?

Chrisp5782

630 posts

159 months

Thursday 9th October 2014
quotequote all
teembo said:
So would the battery master switch do this ?
Once the immobiliser has been set (with the lamp flashing at regular slow intervals) the battery master switch can be switched off, this will isolate the battery from the system. The car will remain in an immobilised state but there will be no battery drain.

When you go to start the car you need to switch the master switch back on, re-set the immobiliser (4-5 presses of the key fob) and you can start.

This method works well for me and I've had no issues with non-starting.

It's worth noting that it also provides an extra level of security as the car can't be run without the battery master key fitted and switched on - can't be a bad thing!


teembo

32 posts

135 months

Thursday 9th October 2014
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Yep, sounds good to me. I'll be doing this when my car arrives.

Helluvaname

365 posts

228 months

Thursday 9th October 2014
quotequote all
Yes, unless someone has tapped anything off the battery before it.

You can get gelmat batteries similar to pvr25 (about 1/2 width of the banner) for about £35, and if used with a battery cutout /FIA switch will work great (generally have higher cranking current than the banner as well).