Discussion
My caterham 1996 with 1.6 K engine hesitates when cold or giving full throttle. Otherwise no problem when driving less aggressively or when already in the high end of rev 4000-6000 (at least it doesn't fell that way). Any ideas of what to look for or does any one have had simiular experiences. All help and coment is appreciated. Thank you.
regards Michael
regards Michael
Change the spark plugs first - assuming they haven't been done recently. If you're running with throttle bodies, make sure they're balanced. Check all earth points are clean and make good contact.
After that if you still have problems then you can start looking at progressively more expensive fixes. Focusing on the electrical system, leads, coils distributor, etc. More than likely a new set of plugs will sort it though.
After that if you still have problems then you can start looking at progressively more expensive fixes. Focusing on the electrical system, leads, coils distributor, etc. More than likely a new set of plugs will sort it though.
Depends a bit on the systems your engine is running.
If you have some of those modern magical bits like an ECU and fuel injection, the sensors come into play.
First, If you have a TPS (throttle position sensor), it may be a bit off, which shifts fueling and advance. Some cars will reset when using some ritual such as, for a fictional example, turning the key off and on 3 times and then floor the accelerator... You can do a search on what will work for your car.
Second, and something that can have great effect, especially as it gets worse, is a bad oxygen sensor.
Thirdly, water temperature sensor can leave you running too rich if it thinks your engine is always cold.
If you are running a primitive engine, then as stated above, electrical things usually have more effect than a slightly out of whack carburetor. Coil, plugs, distributor cap, and related minor electronics... then things like leaky carbs, out of adjustment throttles, out of adjustment idle mixture screws, leaky accelerator pump jets.
Your problems sound more like a sensor; flat-out, a lot of sensor information gets ignored and the ECU goes by fixed tables. Especially for oxygen sensors - many ECU programs only use them for feedback at partial throttle openings and cruising conditions. The throttle position sensor being a bit out won't have as much of an effect at the high RPM end of the maps. It might change things by a very small percentage from optimum. At lower speeds, a misaligned TPS might create a big shift from what is required in the map.
If you have some of those modern magical bits like an ECU and fuel injection, the sensors come into play.
First, If you have a TPS (throttle position sensor), it may be a bit off, which shifts fueling and advance. Some cars will reset when using some ritual such as, for a fictional example, turning the key off and on 3 times and then floor the accelerator... You can do a search on what will work for your car.
Second, and something that can have great effect, especially as it gets worse, is a bad oxygen sensor.
Thirdly, water temperature sensor can leave you running too rich if it thinks your engine is always cold.
If you are running a primitive engine, then as stated above, electrical things usually have more effect than a slightly out of whack carburetor. Coil, plugs, distributor cap, and related minor electronics... then things like leaky carbs, out of adjustment throttles, out of adjustment idle mixture screws, leaky accelerator pump jets.
Your problems sound more like a sensor; flat-out, a lot of sensor information gets ignored and the ECU goes by fixed tables. Especially for oxygen sensors - many ECU programs only use them for feedback at partial throttle openings and cruising conditions. The throttle position sensor being a bit out won't have as much of an effect at the high RPM end of the maps. It might change things by a very small percentage from optimum. At lower speeds, a misaligned TPS might create a big shift from what is required in the map.
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