Ex-academy car question
Discussion
Evening all,
After many a year of wishing, I’ll finally be in the position to buy a Caterham in the next few months. After driving and being driven in several variants with power outputs from 125-210bhp, I’ve settled on a Sigma-powered car and it seems the best way of obtaining the spec I would like is to buy an ex-academy car and put some goodies on it. I only have one (and a half) real worry, and that’s how to go about finding out definitively that a prospective car hasn’t suffered chassis damage. In people’s experience, is it possible to arrive at definitive proof without having the whole car taken to bits? The half-worry is that the engine or gearbox was knackered but that wouldn’t cause me as much anguish.
Thanks in advance, Tim.
After many a year of wishing, I’ll finally be in the position to buy a Caterham in the next few months. After driving and being driven in several variants with power outputs from 125-210bhp, I’ve settled on a Sigma-powered car and it seems the best way of obtaining the spec I would like is to buy an ex-academy car and put some goodies on it. I only have one (and a half) real worry, and that’s how to go about finding out definitively that a prospective car hasn’t suffered chassis damage. In people’s experience, is it possible to arrive at definitive proof without having the whole car taken to bits? The half-worry is that the engine or gearbox was knackered but that wouldn’t cause me as much anguish.
Thanks in advance, Tim.
I have a 2012 Academy Car that is still racing, and, I can't get over how much "track work" the engine and gearbox can take. We've just had the gearbox rebuilt, I think for the first time. I guess the Sigma and Ford gearbox are unstressed in 125BHP guise.
I suspect any car that had a shunt large enough to damage the chassis would need a new chassis from Arch (otherwise it would eat tires). So in effect would be as good or better than new.
If you're interested in a specific car you may be able to find the original owner's name (many also race with their registration plates on). So, it wouldn't take long on the TSL Timing website to find its race history. If the car had a DNF you could probably even see what happened on Youtube.
I suspect any car that had a shunt large enough to damage the chassis would need a new chassis from Arch (otherwise it would eat tires). So in effect would be as good or better than new.
If you're interested in a specific car you may be able to find the original owner's name (many also race with their registration plates on). So, it wouldn't take long on the TSL Timing website to find its race history. If the car had a DNF you could probably even see what happened on Youtube.
Really helpful, chaps. Thanks. I hadn’t thought of it from that (obvious) angle. Just need to do some maths to decide whether to start with an academy car and spend money on it or start with a 270/310R. With the former, I’d be adding an LSD, paint and Tillett B643 XL seats in GRP. Engine mods could come later, if at all. With a 270R, it would be just the seats and perhaps downgrading to less grippy tyres.
I’d pick the car that already has the expensive parts you want (engine, gearbox, extinguisher, cage, seats all add up).
To upgrade a 125bhp to 135bhp (cams, airbox etc) would be £2-3k, possibly another £2k to go from 135 bhp to 150bhp.
I drove a125bhp on the road and c. ten track days without ever thinking it was underpowered. Though I did increase the bhp to go racing. Thinking of increasing the power again and it might be more cost effective to buy a new engine…
To upgrade a 125bhp to 135bhp (cams, airbox etc) would be £2-3k, possibly another £2k to go from 135 bhp to 150bhp.
I drove a125bhp on the road and c. ten track days without ever thinking it was underpowered. Though I did increase the bhp to go racing. Thinking of increasing the power again and it might be more cost effective to buy a new engine…
WombleCate said:
I’d pick the car that already has the expensive parts you want (engine, gearbox, extinguisher, cage, seats all add up).
I have a feeling there won’t be much in it. Power isn’t at the top of my list. I’m just looking at speccing a lightweight and fun road car. Will have aeroscreen, Tilletts etc. 100% agree it's about the car YOU want.
Everyone will have different wants, personally I found:
- 125bhp was more than enough to have fun on the road, and the Academy ECU map gives enough pops and bangs to make the 8yo inside happy. (Sadly when the car was later remapped for track the pops and bangs were gone).
- Tillets were very comfy for me for up to two hours (wish mine still had a slider)
- The Avon ZZS tyre was the greatest tyre for both road and track (still miss them). The Toyo 888's have no where near the level of feel when up to temperature, but, they are cost-effective (we squeeze about 10 heat cycles out of the Toyos)
- I wouldn't want to drive one on the road without a cage and two side intrusion bars, as meeting a tractor on a country lane is an experience (but it does mean you MUST tighten your harness)
- The Aero screen may mean you want to wear a helmet on the road (fitting one was 'the straw' that meant our car became track only and was SORN'd). The windscreen and doors give me the right amount of protection on road
Whichever car YOU want I can guarantee it'll give you an experience (refunds given...). When I got mine, even though I had other roadsters, that first drive is burnt into my memory.
Just do it.
Everyone will have different wants, personally I found:
- 125bhp was more than enough to have fun on the road, and the Academy ECU map gives enough pops and bangs to make the 8yo inside happy. (Sadly when the car was later remapped for track the pops and bangs were gone).
- Tillets were very comfy for me for up to two hours (wish mine still had a slider)
- The Avon ZZS tyre was the greatest tyre for both road and track (still miss them). The Toyo 888's have no where near the level of feel when up to temperature, but, they are cost-effective (we squeeze about 10 heat cycles out of the Toyos)
- I wouldn't want to drive one on the road without a cage and two side intrusion bars, as meeting a tractor on a country lane is an experience (but it does mean you MUST tighten your harness)
- The Aero screen may mean you want to wear a helmet on the road (fitting one was 'the straw' that meant our car became track only and was SORN'd). The windscreen and doors give me the right amount of protection on road
Whichever car YOU want I can guarantee it'll give you an experience (refunds given...). When I got mine, even though I had other roadsters, that first drive is burnt into my memory.
Just do it.
Oh, while I may get shot for saying it and I haven't looked in a while.
End of 2024 was a buyer's market for ex-Academy cars. These are usually snapped up by future Academy drivers (e.g. in 2025 you buy a 2024 car for practice while building a car for the 2026 season).
Due to the challenging times many people are facing there are fewer people able to go racing so I suspect some of the brilliant dealers have stock.
End of 2024 was a buyer's market for ex-Academy cars. These are usually snapped up by future Academy drivers (e.g. in 2025 you buy a 2024 car for practice while building a car for the 2026 season).
Due to the challenging times many people are facing there are fewer people able to go racing so I suspect some of the brilliant dealers have stock.
Gassing Station | Caterham | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff