Cheap, portable flash for Nikon D3200
Discussion
I've been trying a lot of lower light/night photography lately and it struck me just how bad the standard flash is on my Nikon. Everything in the foreground gets blown out and the lighting direction just doesn't look natural (as, well, it's coming from the camera itself...). So, I'd like to get a external flash for portrait, auto and various other low-light scenarios. One that can be angled in particular.
My only issue is that most seem to be quite large and that makes portability a nuisance, and a fair amount of money (I'd rather not spend £100+). What should I be looking for when buying one? And where's the best place to get one cheap - I don't mind used?
Thanks in advance.
My only issue is that most seem to be quite large and that makes portability a nuisance, and a fair amount of money (I'd rather not spend £100+). What should I be looking for when buying one? And where's the best place to get one cheap - I don't mind used?
Thanks in advance.
LongQ said:
Get a cable (or a wireless trigger) and get the flash off the camera. Worth the effort.
It's easy to do. First hand on the shutter relase, second hand supports the lens, third hand holds the flash gun...Not sure why the OPs flash is blowing out the foreground though - too much ISO?
Simpo Two said:
LongQ said:
Get a cable (or a wireless trigger) and get the flash off the camera. Worth the effort.
It's easy to do. First hand on the shutter relase, second hand supports the lens, third hand holds the flash gun...Not sure why the OPs flash is blowing out the foreground though - too much ISO?
GroundEffect said:
I cannot get good portrait shots using the built-in flash. They look very harsh and all remnants of skin tone disappear. Maybe I should shoot at a longer focal length for it to work?
Two different things here. Blowing out implies over-exposure. Harsh implies poor (badly placed/diffused) lighting.I think the main issue is that the flash is too close to the lens and/or it's firing straight. If you get a strap-on flashgun and bounce it miracles will happen.
Think of the built in flash as a last-resort get out of jail facility, or fill flash in certain circumstances. It's no good as a main light source.
Simpo Two said:
LongQ said:
Get a cable (or a wireless trigger) and get the flash off the camera. Worth the effort.
It's easy to do. First hand on the shutter relase, second hand supports the lens, third hand holds the flash gun...Not sure why the OPs flash is blowing out the foreground though - too much ISO?
Get a cheap hand strap to operate the camera single handed.
If you get a small flash (but about twice the range of the built in version) it should make quite a lot of difference but you will be skipping some of the fancier features. Get one that will at least tilt upwards even if it wont swivel - gives some potential in the right sitaution for bouncing flash off the ceiling or whatever you can position above the flash.
If really tricky conditions and you have to use the left hand to operate the lens get a mate to hold the flash or act as a VAL (Voice Activated Lightstand)
You can also get smallish brackets that will hold ther flash off to one side - press photographer style. Makes a world of difference. Dismantle for carrying when not shooting.
Have a look at this video as an example of what can be done - even without a cable in this case!
BTW, if you are shooting in a nightclub or similar there are all sorts of things going on that will potentially screw the exposure especially if you are using auto settings. There's a whole learning curve to that situation.
GroundEffect said:
Yes that's what I want to do. The direct light doesn't work. I tried changing my settings a little - raising ISO, lowering flash length and increasing the exposure time. It brings in more ambient light and less 'flash'. Looks a it better but I definitely need a shoe flash.
The basic problem you face is that max range of an on-camera flash is about 13ft (OK 4 mtrs aor a bit less) but in all practicality for shooting people it's more like 8 (about 2.5 mtrs.) Thus distance is critical 'cos a few cms (nose to ears for example) becomes, relatively, quite a long way in temrs of the amount of light fall off for the ears compared to a good exposure for the nose. Or vice versa.Plus the subject will, typically, have little or no reflective surface (that the camera will meter from) around them within the working distance for the flash. So it can't meter well for exposure.
If you can make the flash to subject('s nose) distance consistent shot to shot you could set a manual flash value that would probably work quite well for the face and any exposed skin or pale-ish clothing but blow out for whites and leave the subject seemingly set against a black background.
You really need a decent distance, something around that will reflect and partly illuminate the surrounding from the spread of the flash and a metring mode that can make use of what is available - which will probably not be a 'spot' metering setting although that might work well for picking face exposure in some situations.
The on built flash designs will "normally" be looking to average things out, possibly with centre bias. You need to get a feel for how to work with that to make the exposures you want. If you are shooting close to the subject in a dark environment you are close to the operational limits so fine tuning of technique is likely to be required.
Simpo Two said:
LongQ said:
The basic problem you face is that max range of an on-camera flash is about 13ft
You may mean 'built-in flash'. An SB800/900 goes a heck sight further than 13 ft 
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