Sharpness, resolution - tips please? M 4/3 limitations?
Discussion
Lovely shots on so many parts of this forum.
I'm beginning to feel the limitations of my older M3/4 camera (E-PL2) - sharpness really isn't its forte. Been playing with lenses at all apertures, and it doesn't deliver the sort of pin sharp beauty that I'm seeing on the forum, even with an expensive 45mm 1.8 lens.
Thing is, my skills don't justify upgrading my kit (especially after 6 months!). And in any case, the latest M4/3 cameras are pretty expensive (OMD, E-PL5) - I'd prpbably be better off buying a second hand full frame rig if I wanted to buy new stuff (which I don't)
Any tips from you lot as to how to optimise resolution and sharpness in camera? The problem is most noticeable when taking sunset/sunrise photographs - cluds are simply too fluffy.
I suppose I could invest in the really high end lenses - but I'd rather learm more about the craft before spending hundreds of pounds!
I'm beginning to feel the limitations of my older M3/4 camera (E-PL2) - sharpness really isn't its forte. Been playing with lenses at all apertures, and it doesn't deliver the sort of pin sharp beauty that I'm seeing on the forum, even with an expensive 45mm 1.8 lens.
Thing is, my skills don't justify upgrading my kit (especially after 6 months!). And in any case, the latest M4/3 cameras are pretty expensive (OMD, E-PL5) - I'd prpbably be better off buying a second hand full frame rig if I wanted to buy new stuff (which I don't)
Any tips from you lot as to how to optimise resolution and sharpness in camera? The problem is most noticeable when taking sunset/sunrise photographs - cluds are simply too fluffy.
I suppose I could invest in the really high end lenses - but I'd rather learm more about the craft before spending hundreds of pounds!
First - many photos on the forum are resized to 750px etc so you can't judge sharpness of the original image or lens performance anyway. Indeed much of their apparent 'sharpness' may come from the fact they were resharpened after reducing.
I don't think resolution is the issue, I think it's in the taking/processing/interpreting. First you need to get the physical bit (lens) focused as accurately as possible with the appropriate depth of field when you take the photograph. Then, if you are fussy and want to manage things yourself, you'll shoot RAW so you have control of how the image is processed. From here, sharpening is part of image processing - artificial if you like. Edges are cunningly rearranged so they appear sharper. And if you want to resize an image, it will need re-sharpening as the amount needed is related to image size.
Perhaps if you could post some images you're not happy with we can see what's really going on.
I don't think resolution is the issue, I think it's in the taking/processing/interpreting. First you need to get the physical bit (lens) focused as accurately as possible with the appropriate depth of field when you take the photograph. Then, if you are fussy and want to manage things yourself, you'll shoot RAW so you have control of how the image is processed. From here, sharpening is part of image processing - artificial if you like. Edges are cunningly rearranged so they appear sharper. And if you want to resize an image, it will need re-sharpening as the amount needed is related to image size.
Perhaps if you could post some images you're not happy with we can see what's really going on.
The 45mm 1.8 is a very sharp lens. Many people actually don't like it for portraits because it's too sharp! You'll probably get the best results around f4. With M43, you don't really want to be going much above f8 as you'll start to get diffraction which will soften your images. Other causes could be flare from shooting into the Sun or camera shake. I don't think there is anything about having an older camera body that would cause your pictures not to be sharp, this would be down to the lens or user error.
Thank you chaps - definitely more like user error than anything else (hence the fact that I'm not solving the problem by spending, but by trying to learn!).
To be fair, results from the 45mm 1.8 are generally superb. I just can't seem to replicate them on a wide angle basis with either the kit 14-42, or my Lumix 14mm 2.5 lenses; which is frustrating. I see some of the wide angle landscapes on here and am getting frustrated that I can't get that sharpness and clarity myself! I would like my results out of camera to be as good as possible, as well as learning PP properly.
I shoot RAW and do actually do some PP with Lightroom but I really am just starting out, having had the program for a month or so.
To be fair, results from the 45mm 1.8 are generally superb. I just can't seem to replicate them on a wide angle basis with either the kit 14-42, or my Lumix 14mm 2.5 lenses; which is frustrating. I see some of the wide angle landscapes on here and am getting frustrated that I can't get that sharpness and clarity myself! I would like my results out of camera to be as good as possible, as well as learning PP properly.
I shoot RAW and do actually do some PP with Lightroom but I really am just starting out, having had the program for a month or so.
Well I think you may have answered your own question. The lens makes a huge difference and kit zooms are generally not that great. For wide angle the best options are Olympus 12mm f2, or Panasonic 12-35mm f2.8. However, they are both very expensive. I have the 14mm f2.5 and am happy with it and don't think it can be beaten for the price. I also love my Rokinon 7.5mm fisheye.
Try to look at your images in isolation. Comparing them to GetCarter's amazing shots is not fair as he does some clever selective sharpening which always makes his shots look stunning and he's using kit costing many times what you have. m43 can produce good results so try experimenting with aperture, use a tripod with self timer/cable release, and read up on sharpening in post. Filters can also make a big difference to contrast and dynamic range.
Try to look at your images in isolation. Comparing them to GetCarter's amazing shots is not fair as he does some clever selective sharpening which always makes his shots look stunning and he's using kit costing many times what you have. m43 can produce good results so try experimenting with aperture, use a tripod with self timer/cable release, and read up on sharpening in post. Filters can also make a big difference to contrast and dynamic range.
Work out where the lens is at its sharpest (focal length , aperture). Use that.
Make sure your focus is spot on, I dont like hyperfocal, bit of a crutch that leaves your foreground soft and your background soft. m43rds should have plenty of DOF anyhow, make sure your not stopping down too much.
Use a tripod and self timer or cable release.
Shoot raw and dont sharpen until your finished processing. Then I do a 2 step process (if at all most are not sharpened for web..) light sharpen at full size, then resize (bicubic sharper) to web and if needed another level of sharpening.
Sharpening is tricky because it depends on the size, output and detail of the shot.
Make sure your focus is spot on, I dont like hyperfocal, bit of a crutch that leaves your foreground soft and your background soft. m43rds should have plenty of DOF anyhow, make sure your not stopping down too much.
Use a tripod and self timer or cable release.
Shoot raw and dont sharpen until your finished processing. Then I do a 2 step process (if at all most are not sharpened for web..) light sharpen at full size, then resize (bicubic sharper) to web and if needed another level of sharpening.
Sharpening is tricky because it depends on the size, output and detail of the shot.
I cant handhold for s
t, shutter speeds of under 1/80th are a waste of time - I use a tripod whenever I can. I just get trigger happy and yank at the shutter instead of folding my finger over it. If I find myself without any assistance and running out of options on aperture I'll push ISO as far as I dare to keep the shutter speeds up
I tend to use Smart Sharpen and/or high pass filters in Photoshop from RAW files.
Perhaps if you post some examples of what you think you're finding the limits on either with technology or technique there might be some areas where people can offer help (it'd help to put up the EXIF info as well; shutter speed, aperture and ISO are the only really interesting bits)
t, shutter speeds of under 1/80th are a waste of time - I use a tripod whenever I can. I just get trigger happy and yank at the shutter instead of folding my finger over it. If I find myself without any assistance and running out of options on aperture I'll push ISO as far as I dare to keep the shutter speeds upI tend to use Smart Sharpen and/or high pass filters in Photoshop from RAW files.
Perhaps if you post some examples of what you think you're finding the limits on either with technology or technique there might be some areas where people can offer help (it'd help to put up the EXIF info as well; shutter speed, aperture and ISO are the only really interesting bits)
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